How to make this 36" radius profile...

[Myk Rian]

Any tips on how to make this profile on a 36" radius right angle turn?

Steam bending after making the profile.

[Michael Dunn]

Steam bending after making the profile.

That's a good idea. Although, wouldn't it distort the profile to some extent?

[Myk Rian]

Not sure. I've never done it. Might have to custom make the top and lower edges on it.
I've seen a post where someone did a bar edge like that. Just don't remember where. I believe he made a jig in the shape of the bar corner and used that to rout the entire thing.
It didn't look like an easy job.

[Gary Janssen]

To make the curve laminate thin stock around a template until you have the right thickness then shape. The laminating will make it strong and very stable.

[jack forsberg]

I would turn the curve on the Lathe(face plate work)wood layed up in a brick work pattern. But i guess most here don't have a big pattern lathe like my Wadkin RS. I would grind full profile scrapers to finish the profile. It would dam near fit on the in board but the out board is nice with the mobile out board tool stand for this work. I guess if all you had was a small Oneway that machine could work too. Even a small lathe could do it with a router on a stand with casters and turning the work by hand(work this large should run 100rpm to 150rpm to be safe). That's how i would do it by hand but a CNC would be easy too. lots of guys looking for work like this kind for there CNC if that has not been mentioned yet. as i have not read the entire thread .Sorry

jack
English machines

[Michael Dunn]

Ok, so I finally got around to this bar for an estimate. It turns out what he claimed was a 36" radius was actually a 39" long curve. So I estimated that this 39" represents roughly 1/4 of the circumference of a circle. So 39"x4=156" a circumference. 156"/6.28 (2x3.14)=24.84" radius. Of course the other radius isn't identical so I can't make two exact pieces.

Do you think it would be possible to either kerf the back or steam bend the profile to fit this radius? I made some full size templates of each curve and have some exact measurements of the bar top as well.

Any thoughts?

[Michael Dunn]

Like most things in woodworking there are probably several ways to go about making this. Of course we still don't know exactly what's being made??? I'm going to hazard a guess that your running 31' of straight profile with a curved return at the end? I assume your making the rest of the top as well? Running the straight isn't bad, it's the curved section at the end that's going to be the fun part! I'm going to add a bit to what Peter and Jim mentioned in that it's OK to get a quote from someone else for a starting point.....however if you do go that route keep in mind your getting a quote from a shop already setup for this type of work with the knowledge of how to do it quickly, cleanly, and accurately. There's a very high possibility it's going to take you far longer and possibly waste a bit of material going through the learning curve.

As for me, I wouldn't have a problem running the straight stuff, if it's a true radius I'd do it in two passes on the shaper with the same set of knives. The curved return on the end would take some thought but probably several passes through the shaper with special made jigs. So based on my assumptions, your supplying the whole 31' top with a single curved return at the end made out of mahogany.....your probably looking at around $7-8k as a rough guess.

good luck,
JeffD

After visiting the bar in person today I know much more about what they are asking. It is all red oak. I measured and intentionally overestimated and measured about 42' LF.

Are you saying I should estimate the total job cost of $7k-$8k? Keep in mind they plan to have me only fab this for them. Although today he did say that it may be best for me to install it. I do not believe I'll be doing the staining or clear coating.

With that in mind what do you think I should charge? I know it's a hairy question and everyone's overhead is different. But still, I'd like a ball park estimate.

[Mel Fulks]

I don't think you stand a chance of steam bending ,making it has been covered. The biggest red flag to me the radius is not a true radius. Some one else can't cut some plywood accurately ,now they want you match their incompetence. All that needs to happen in a case like that is the same goof ball makes first cut too short ,then because of sloppy sawing the piece can't be used. I would take control of the job and and get some money up front or stop wasting my time.

[Michael Dunn]

I don't think you stand a chance of steam bending ,making it has been covered. The biggest red flag to me the radius is not a true radius. Some one else can't cut some plywood accurately ,now they want you match their incompetence. All that needs to happen in a case like that is the same goof ball makes first cut too short ,then because of sloppy sawing the piece can't be used. I would take control of the job and and get some money up front or stop wasting my time.

Great advice! I think I'll propose that I "re-radius" corners to a true radius and the same radius for each of the two radius end corners. I will also insist on being the one to install the bar rail. Perhaps I'll state the only way I'll offer any guarantee is if I install it myself.

Whaddaya tink?

How about advice on pricing? How much per LF for making the rail? How much to install?

[Mel Fulks]

Your best source for an estimate might be Jeff's guess or a quote from the reccomended company specializing in making that stuff. As posted earlier I keep some records of hours on odd ball jobs. But I'm sure I would be a lousy estimator. If it turns out that the curve is a neatly sawn ellipse ,you will have to match it ,but at a cost above what radiused would cost.

[Michael Dunn]

Your best source for an estimate might be Jeff's guess or a quote from the reccomended company specializing in making that stuff. As posted earlier I keep some records of hours on odd ball jobs. But I'm sure I would be a lousy estimator. If it turns out that the curve is a neatly sawn ellipse ,you will have to match it ,but at a cost above what radiused would cost.

I went to two places today. Both of them sub out to the same Millwork place in my area. Neither will do a custom radiused corner like I need. Neither have a profile even remotely close to what I need. Also, the bar rail profile that they have is much smaller and is only one piece. Their price was $17.84/LF It was 3-1/2" wide. Mine will be two pieces for the actual rail and a third piece to connect the bottom of the rail to the face of the bar. I'm estimating about 75 BD/FT of 6/4 Red Oak for the profile and 35 BD/FT of 3/4 for the connecting piece.

Obviously most of the labor will be in fabricating the custom radiused corner. As opposed to the straight runs. I imagine I'll be doing a lot of hand work to fine tune the fit and feel.

Anybody have some tips on this?

[Mel Fulks]

Besides Jeff's numbers I was referring to the company mentioned earlier. Don't remember the name and there's quite a pile of posts here ! You could base your quote on theirs. Mark it up and add your labor for install and finishing.

[Joseph Tarantino]

so what's the vig for all the forum members who are contributing their experience and ideas to your for profit commercial venture?

[Chris Fournier]

Not to be rude but it seems to me that you are in way over your head on this project. If you are asking people on the Internet how to undertake and cost out this job you are not qualified to do it. You will lose your shirt any any reputation you hope to gain in your marketplace.

Develop your skills and be honest about your abilities. You seem to be trying to punch over your weight class. You will get hurt.

[Michael Dunn]

Not to be rude but it seems to me that you are in way over your head on this project. If you are asking people on the Internet how to undertake and cost out this job you are not qualified to do it. You will lose your shirt any any reputation you hope to gain in your marketplace.

Develop your skills and be honest about your abilities. You seem to be trying to punch over your weight class. You will get hurt.

I appreciate your honesty. I now know what needs to be done to make this. I'm confident I can make it happen. My main issue now is just knowing what is a fair price to charge. I'm still learning some (much) of the business aspect of WW'ing.