Which cabinet saw?

[bob cohen]

I will be replacing my delta unisaw in the next few months. I'm currently leaning towards the saw stop industrial, but am also considering the new unisaw, and hammer and felder sliding table saws. A very important factor for me, which is often not discussed, is the ease at which the saws can be accurately adjusted, e.g., aligning saw blade parallel to miter track. This is the main reason why I prefer the unisaw over the PM2000 and the sawstop ICS over the professional. I know very little about how easy or hard it is to make fine tune adjustments on the sliding saws. Your comments in this regard would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[Roy Harding]

I have a Felder sliding combo - (CF531 Professional). I also used a Sawstop cabinet saw extensively when I was in trades school.

I liked the Sawstop - not because of the safety features, but because of the solid engineering and quality production values of the saw. I was considering getting one, as I was very impressed. And then (at the same trades school), I was introduced to sliders, and was immediately converted.

As far as set up and adjustment goes - I've had my Felder for five years. I recall spending three days with calipers, feeler gauges, the manual, as well as "The Unofficial Survival Guide" for Felder 700 series (this last Guide I purchased from an online source). But - mine was a combo machine - so I was setting up a jointer, a planer, a shaper, as well as the slider. It's also worth noting that much of that time was spent "fooling around" with the machine to understand its functions, best practices for getting things done, etcetera.

I haven't had to adjust anything since - and I do check for accuracy every few months. I've accidentally dropped sheets of 3/4" MDF on the slider, and I don't take any better care of my equipment than anybody else - but I've NEVER had to make an adjust since that first set-up session (and machine works 8 - 10 hours a day, six days a week).

The thing to keep in mind with a slider is that you need a lot of room for it. My shop was designed around the Felder. The space dedicated to it is approximately 20 Feet X 15 Feet - but that's because of the Jointer/Planer which requires clearance in the "back" of the saw. If you got the slider only, you'd still need the 20 Feet (at least - mine only has the capacity for a 74 inch cut - so I can't cut a sheet of plywood lengthways - that works for me), but you wouldn't need as wide a space as I have. It seems to me that Felder has a chart of recommended footprints on their site.

I don't think you'd go wrong with any of the machines you're looking at (I've never worked with a Hammer, but I understand that they are a slightly less "industrial" line of their Felder and Format 4 branded machines) - best of luck to you.

[bob cohen]

Hi Roy, I guess I expected that the felder would hold up exceptionally well to normal use, but its nice to hear from any experienced user nonetheless. Space is an issue for me, and I would also not be able to accomodate a full length slider. Is it worth the money to invest in a felder, if I cannot accommodate more than a 79" slider? Would it be like buying a mercedes just drive around the block? The only time I work with sheet goods is when I'm making shop equipment, but I like the idea of using the slider for straight line ripping as well.

[Roy Harding]

Hi Roy, I guess I expected that the felder would hold up exceptionally well to normal use, but its nice to hear from any experienced user nonetheless. Space is an issue for me, and I would also not be able to accomodate a full length slider. Is it worth the money to invest in a felder, if I cannot accommodate more than a 79" slider? Would it be like buying a mercedes just drive around the block? The only time I work with sheet goods is when I'm making shop equipment, but I like the idea of using the slider for straight line ripping as well.

For me - the length of the slider was not an issue. I can barely remember the last time I needed to cut the full length of a sheet of plywood - and on those RARE occasions that I do need to, I go back to the way I used to do it (IE - straight edge and skil saw). So - the required length of the slider is entirely dependant upon what it is you do with it.

If you're looking at straight line ripping - get two of the eccentric clamps from Felder if/when you order it. When I ordered mine, I made an issue of it - and they threw them in for me at no charge. With the two clamps, you can clamp a board down, make a straight line rip - and carry on cutting to width with the parallel fence. I make a LOT of glued up panels - and with a decent blade I rarely joint an edge.

When I bought mine (about five years ago), they were all made to order. IE - you don't just walk into the local distributor and take it home. As I recall, I waited about nine months to have it built and delivered. Whether that has changed or not, or whether that method of purchase only applied to my circumstances (I live in a fairly remote area - did everything online and on the telephone), I don't know.

I DO know that when it first arrived, I had many questions - and the service I received via email was exceptional (as it should be - I dropped $20K on it) - but that may have more to do with the individual distributor I was dealing with than Felder itself.

I found the machine to be a lot of money - but I haven't been disappointed in it, or had any regrets since.

[Robert Chapman]

I have a SawStop Professional and the adjustments for aligning the saw blade to the miter track are easy and accurate. The table top fasteners are loosened and the top adjusted using allen screws - easy and accurate. No tapping on the top to adjust. I really like my SawStop - its engineering and user friendliness are amazing - and it's hard to cut yourself with the power on. I have a Jessem slider attachment on the left wing which works very well for me.

[Stephen Cherry]

I'm not sure what the objective is, but one option not mentioned would be one of the big old table saws. Northfield, Oliver, etc. I don't know much about any of them, but I would think that since they were used in patternmakers shops, they would be very accurate. Just a thought.

[scott spencer]

There's not a lemon on your list...the way I see it, the Saw Stop's safety feature is nearly free at that price point, and is a heck of a nice bonus if needed. The alignment process should be a once and done deal, and none should be very difficult.

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a Hammer B3 Winner with the 50" slider in a small basement shop.

It replaced a General saw and General shaper.

They are far more space efficient than a cabinet saw, and have far greater cpabilities.

You couldn't convince me to go back to a cabinet saw.

The smaller sliders have a small foot print, and when I need to cross cut sheets, or desk tops, or doors I put the outrigger on, which takes about 2 minutes, then take it off again.

Watch the Felder saw/combination machine videos, all of them, as well as the Hammer videos.

I'm sure you'll be convinced..............Rod.


P.s., the outrigger with scoring saw is the cat's whiskers for sheet goods.

[Steve Keathley]

I just got a PM 64B a couple of weeks ago. Not a PM2000, but the adjustments are basically the same. Fornunately, the table was perfectly square to the blade right out of the box, so I didn't have to adjust the table. But it didn't look too difficult even using a rubber mallet. Like someone said, one and done. Squaring the fence was a piece of cake as was the blade tilt. Runout was .035 which I'm told is well within acceptable so I didn't mess with that.

All in all, I spent about an hour and a half tuning the saw. It wasn't hard at all and my first time doing it.

Not any bad choices in your list though. I looked at just about everything for 6 months and narrowed it down to the Saw Stop contractor and PM64. It was a tough call. Very happy with my choice so far.

[Erik Loza]

...Space is an issue for me, and I would also not be able to accomodate a full length slider....
...The only time I work with sheet goods is when I'm making shop equipment..
...but I like the idea of using the slider for straight line ripping as well.

When a customer who already owns a functional table saw tells me these three things, above, my reply to them is that they need a better bandsaw rather than a sliding table saw. A cheaper and more practical solution in this case.

Just my 2-cents.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Tom Hintz]

I also have the SawStop Professional cabinet swaw and it is very easy to adjust the miter slot to the blade, but so was my PM2000, both just have the four bolts that loosen the top. the sawStop is a better machine in all regards, not just the bade brake. they did a lot of engineering when they designed this saw, lots of good ideas that have been very well done in manufacturing. I love it.

[Rick Potter]

Hey Tom,

I just wanted to thank you for that kickback video. That and your video on the SawStop pushed me over the edge, to really check into it. I bought one, and I am hoping to put it together next week.

Rick Potter

[Roy Harding]

When a customer who already owns a functional table saw tells me these three things, above, my reply to them is that they need a better bandsaw rather than a sliding table saw. A cheaper and more practical solution in this case.

...

I hear what you're saying. I own two bandsaws, one is used exclusively for resawing, and the other for general "bandsaw" tasks. I love both of them, and wouldn't want to be without either of them.

However - on neither of them can II rip two pieces of wood, put glue on the cut edges, clamp them up, and have a good glue joint. I CAN do that operation on either of my table saws (both the slider I mentioned earlier, AND the little "Trademaster" low budget, cheaper than hell contractor saw that I keep around pretty much exclusively for dados, rabbets, and tenons).

To successfully accomplish the same operation with a bandsaw would (in my experience) require a jointer in addition to the saw.

[Jim Andrew]

I put up with a nasty old Craftsman table saw for years before getting a new Unisaw about 9 years ago, can't imagine why I would consider getting rid of mine.

[Erik Loza]

I own two bandsaws, one is used exclusively for resawing, and the other for general "bandsaw" tasks.... on neither of them can II rip two pieces of wood, put glue on the cut edges, clamp them up, and have a good glue joint....

This bent-lam glue-up...



...came from these, which are off a stock Minimax bandsaw with a 1.0" Lenox Tri-Master...





Just sayin'...

Erik Loza
Minimax USA