Ok. So this is SO not a new question. But I am not finding any clear answers.

[John Piwaron]

First, the reviews. When I'm looking at them, I look with an eye towards my intended use. That usually clears things up nicely.

I have a DeWalt DW705 12" compound miter saw. My copy of that model has been rock solid. Accurate, and with a replacement blade (Forrest Chopmaster) it yields glass smooth cuts. Years ago I built a table/lumber rack that's cantilevered from a wall in my shop. The miter saw rests in a depressed section in the middle of the table. There are a pair of "arms" above it on which I have a substantial amount of lumber. Mostly hard maple and cherry. I've had the saw 20 or so years. It's still working like new.

A couple of months ago, for no more reason than "I want one" I looked at the Kapex as a replacement. It's got a little more capacity and better dust collection. After some careful measurements I know I'm not likely to have one in my shop. Not without redesigning and replacing my miter saw table/lumber rack. The Kapex is too high to fit in it. I think I could raise the lumber above but I don't care to lose any of that storage. Especially since it seems that every "improvement" to a tool (new workbench, router table, TS) seems to result in loss of lumber storage.

I think you should keep sharp focus on what you need rather than on what you may want. A good compound miter saw may be just the thing. Or it may not. Maybe a SCMS is right for you. Buy appropriately. Don't be confused by reviews. Why'd one reviewer give it 5 stars? Is it just because he/she liked it's color? Did it get a 1 star 'cause they were upset that it arrived while they were in the shower? Yes, some reviews do get that silly.

And maybe after your careful consideration you decide you don't need one after all. For example, if you were to buy a European sliding table saw, that machine would obviate the need for a powered miter saw. So would a sled on top of your table saw. If you have one.

[Jim Matthews]

If the results are weighted by population, the Radial arm saw contributes a disproportionate number of injuries.
It's the Pit Bull of power tools. Not many in use, lots of injuries associated with them.

By way of illustration, it might be concluded that the Honda Accord was a particularly faulty vehicle as so many accidents occur in them.
They are widely distributed and driven, so their exposure to accident is higher.

There are considerable accidents with tablesaws (including kickbacks).
The RAS is set up such that the rotating blade drives the motor along it's carriage towards it's user.

That's a design flaw, in my opinion.

[Greg Portland]

To prevent her from going down the stairs I am building a baby - turned - Grandma gate.

For the gate, why not get a steel (baby) gate and install it with 3"-4" quality screws (not drywall screws)?

For basic trim work with a portable machine I really like the newer Milwaukee saw (even over the Makita). Festool is great but $$$. If I were spending over $1k then I'd start to look at used industrial equipment (CTD, OMGA, etc.) because portability is not a concern for me.

[Joshua Dinerstein]

Greg,

a reasonable question. We as a family started there. Bottom line, she is a very stubborn woman didn't like the look of it in her house. But a nice stained wood one worked wonders for her. I showed her the turned balusters and she loved them.

Joshua

For the gate, why not get a steel (baby) gate and install it with 3"-4" quality screws (not drywall screws)?

For basic trim work with a portable machine I really like the newer Milwaukee saw (even over the Makita). Festool is great but $$$. If I were spending over $1k then I'd start to look at used industrial equipment (CTD, OMGA, etc.) because portability is not a concern for me.[/COLOR]

[Joshua Dinerstein]

I wanted to thank you all for the replies.

I continued to shop and then came the same conclusion that Charles mentioned. Being a turner and not a furniture builder I had made some bad assumptions. I kept thinking I should be able to cut the wood and get it nice and square. I mean I have seen people make picture frames with 45 degree mitered ends so... But the more I have dug in and read what was answered here in this thread and on the Creek the more I have come to the conclusion that for me... I don't really need a new miter saw. Oh sure a more expensive one will definitely produce a better cut. And I may pick one up at some point. But I think that what I will do for now, haven't had a single moment to work on it since I posted this here, is rough cut with the miter saw, leaving things and inch or so long and then get a very true cut with my table saw.

Which means now I have to start researching how to do that. I have a table saw I have only used 2 or 3 times total but got it on a great sale 4 or so years ago. A Ridgid R4511 granite top. Picked it up a the local HD for $168. Like I said t good to pass up. But it scares me a bit so I rarely use it. Time to get over that and get on with learning to use it.

Thanks to one and all for the thoughts, information, and replies. They were beyond helpful for me.

Joshua

P.S. I do actually own a radial arm saw. I bought a quite old used one from the local classifieds for $50 6 or so years ago. I have never turned it on or used it. It is actually at a friends house and has been for years now. But I hadn't really thought of doing the squaring cuts with that either. For now the table saw is here and likely my best bet.

[Aleks Hunter]

Yiikes, without some good training a radial arm saw is a call to 911 waiting to happen!

Josh, I'm going to go off the reservation a bit here and suggest that you look at Eureka zone's saw tracks Google them). Its like the same idea as festool and dewalt's dedicated track saw except that you mount a standard circular saw, a tool that you will find is much more utilitarian than either a CMS or a RAS. The beauty of the Eureka Zone tracks is that it has a consumable weatherstrip on the edge that you cut with the saw before you use it so when you draw a line on your workpiece set the edge of the weatherstrip on that line and that is exactly where your blade cuts. If you can draw a line square to an edge, or at any angle you can cut it. Initial setup is about a half an hour. The track saw setup is the go to for me more than anything else. Put a decent circ saw on it with a good blade and there is very little sanding to do.

[Frederick Skelly]

At 93, shes entitled to be stubborn. Youre very fortunate shes still with you! God bless her.

[John Downey]

The table saw you have is the way to go. If you want to just spend some $$$ and get square cuts, you can buy an aftermarket miter jig (I like the Kreg jig, but there are many to choose from, all work just fine). You can also tune up the miter jig that came with it, someone is sure to have a thread about that here somewhere.

Ironically, I'm vastly more scared of my lathe than my table saw I find the table saw predictable, and the lathe very unpredictable. Of course, neither has ever bit me, with the lathe it's more worry about wrecking my work. If you ever fire up the RAS, get a 0 or negative hook blade for it, that will make it much less aggressive and much easier to use. I used one once that had a framing blade on it (about a 20 degree hook). It did cut fast, I'll give it that