Tool Handle Questions

[Dan Case LR]

My first project with my new 1221vs will be turning a few handles for my lathe tools. I have a couple of newbie questions.

I've read that most any hardwood can be used for tool handles. I'll probably use something fairly cheap like ash or oak, just because I expect to turn a few pieces that belong in the firewood pile. My question is: are any varieties that as a beginner I should avoid? Anything that's the "perfect" wood for new turners to train on?

I know that handle length is a very subjective thing. Where should I start? Are there any "standards?" Things to avoid?

Thanks!

D.

[Robert McGowen]

Most people start out trying to turn the handle and then drill the hole for the tool. Drill the hole for the tool, then put the nose cone of the tail stock in the hole and turn the handle. That way, your hole will be exactly centered and ready to go when you finish turning the handle. YMMV

[Roy Turbett]

Most people start out trying to turn the handle and then drill the hole for the tool. Drill the hole for the tool, then put the nose cone of the tail stock in the hole and turn the handle. That way, your hole will be exactly centered and ready to go when you finish turning the handle. YMMV

I use this same method and use copper plumbing couplings for ferrules. I like the design of Sorby tool handles and pattern mine after them.

[Michelle Rich]

no, there is no perfect wood. Use what you have. A small grained wood (cherry, walnut or even poplar) will make a smoother handle than oak, which can be chippy. But no matter what you use, have fun & go make handles

[Thom Sturgill]

Most people start out trying to turn the handle and then drill the hole for the tool. Drill the hole for the tool, then put the nose cone of the tail stock in the hole and turn the handle. That way, your hole will be exactly centered and ready to go when you finish turning the handle. YMMV

Agreed. And don't worry about the spur center marks on the end - its a tool handle, not a piece of art. Ash is commonly used commercially, but I would tend to stay away from the oak. Whichever, make sure it has tight, straight grain that runs the length. I tend to use brass fittings on my 'show' handles but copper pipe works OK and so does waxed string (think fishing pole wrappings) tuck the ends under and seal with finish. This is how my long handled hollowing tool handles are made.

Make sure the diameter is big enough to fit your hand comfortably and has a bulge near the end of the tool to help prevent splitting. Handles run anywhere from about 12-14" for spindle tools to 16"-20"+ for gouges and scrapers. I think the formula was something like 5" of handle for every inch of overhang over the tool rest, and there was a formula for how far over the tool rest based on the area of the cross section of the tool. Both were 'rule of thumb' to control chatter. Look online at tools and see what ones similar to what you have come handled with. For spindle work you often hold the tool in one hand near the ferule, so length is not too important.

Speaking of tool rests, do not be afraid to take a file to the top of the rest to remove dings, and to wax it. The tool needs so slide freely. Check out the Robust style rests with a hardened rod on the top - they work great. by the way, we did tell you this was a vortex and to kiss your spare money goodbye , didn't we?

[Robert Henrickson]

As you turn the handle, try gripping it to see what diameter and profile feels comfortable TO YOU. I like a larger diameter handle even though my hands are not all that large. I use ash and drill the hole first.

[Doug Herzberg]

I agree with everything so far. On gouges, keep in mind how much room you have on the back side of the lathe. If it's too long, you might find the handle bumping into the wall as you hollow the inside of a bowl. I would move the lathe, but that isn't always possible in a small shop.

[Jeff Gilfor]

Agree with everything said so far. I mount the firewood (my preferred handle wood source) between centers; round it with my SRG; turn a tennon for more accurate grip; drill the hole; then remount between 4-jaw chuck and 60 degree live center in the new hole; then finish 'er up.

I drill with my lathe; if I were to use a press, I would drill the hole first; then round it off.

Have done it both ways (as my old lathe was a midi with shorter bed).

[Prashun Patel]

Closed grain woods do feel better in the hand, IMHO (although garden tool and baseball bat makers will beg to differ). I would avoid soft woods, as they can break under pressure. It's really not critical on detail tools. But for bigger gouges, you want something that is tougher.

Dan, if you PM me, I have a couple walnut, cherry, and elm cutoffs that would be great to practice on. I'd be happy to send them to you.
prashun

[Robert Henrickson]

I like ash since the grain provides a bit of texture to help with grip, as long as you don't overfinish it. You want the handle secure in your hand more than a nice shiny finish.

[charlie knighton]

most woods are ok, caution with oak, if you have a cut on your hand and sweat while turning with oak handle, you may get transfer, there is something in oak that you should not breathe and get in cuts, it will get infected, my favorite handle material is dry dogwood

if after time the hole becomes enlarged or something, and the tool is loose, just wrap the tool portion that goes into the handle with some masking tape and beat the bottom of the tool handle into something solid like concrete

[Jeff Gilfor]

In many areas, beating a tool can be considered abuse.

[Chris Studley]

Here is a 5/8" bowl gouge I did. It is made of Jatoba (Brazilian cherry). I chose because it's heavy and dense (and available). The picture shows how I used a 1" copper union for the ferrule. You can sand the Copper down to 400/600 and hit it with 0000 steel wool to give it a more finished look. IMAG0419.jpg The handle itself is about 14" long... The fit should be tight, I used CA glue to hold it in. Welcome to the vortex...

[Dan Case LR]

In many areas, beating a tool can be considered abuse.

We don't beat our tools. We discipline our tools. And when necessary, we use percussive maintenance.

D.

[Dennis Nagle]

I made my first tool handle out of pine and everyone said I should just throw it away. It is still holding up very well and it is my roughing gouge so it gets beat up when in use. Go with whatever you want.