Signing your work?

[Dan Masshardt]

What kind of pen / marker?

[bob svoboda]

I'm sure you will get lots of ideas. I use a Dremel engraving tool I'll be interested in what others have to say.

[Doug Herzberg]

I searched Sawmill Creek on the subject recently. Many here use an artist's archival pen, which you can find at a hobby or art store. I picked one up a few weeks ago and it works a lot better than a Sharpie. It's black India ink with a superfine tip, under $5. I haven't done much I feel like signing recently, so I can't tell you much more about it.

Others use pyrography pens. No experience there. As Bob mentioned, some use an engraver. One respected turner said he uses a #2 pencil. Don't know if he still does.

[Richard Jones]

I use a Dremel engraver with a sharpened tip. Don't want anyone confusing my work with Picasso in several hundred years..................

[Scott Lux]

Having awful handwriting, I use machinist dies (Harbor Freight cheapies). I'm not happy with it, but it's readable. I put my last name and the year only because it's such a nuisance.

[John Keeton]

I use the archival pen when black will work, and I have a gold pen for darker woods. I have also used an engraver, but don't care for the look. I sign my first and last name, and my initials, which is also the logo on my website.

... I put my last name and the year ...

Scott, while there is disagreement on this, I made the decision to eliminate the year from my pieces. There is something about someone picking up a piece in a gallery and seeing 2011 on the bottom and wondering why it hasn't sold that makes me think it might not be the best plan.

[David A. Peterson]

I too use Harbor Freight machinist dies. I took my first, middle, and last initial and taped them together with duct tape. I then put a little flat piece of metal across the top and taped that in place. When hit with a hammer, the letters are evenly spaced. I usually test it out on a scrap piece of wood from the same wood as my project. Some wood is harder, and takes a few more whacks. If I need a little contrast, I then put a little paste wood filler of a contrasting color (i.e. white on walnut) and rub it into the indentations. I then sand it until just the letters are highlighted.

[Doug Herzberg]

Have you Harbor Freight guys ever tried heating up the dies and using them as a brand? I have a set, but just couldn't bring myself to hit a bowl with a hammer. The commercial branding irons are mostly too big and expensive, too.

JK, I think you're right about the date. It means something to me, but who else cares? It is nice to see how bad I was in 2011, compared to how bad I am now.

Do most people include the species? I sometimes include the name of the family who provided donated wood, especially if it's going back to them.

[Steve Doerr]

I use Pigma archival pens to sign mine. They come in several different point sizes. I use the 01 which is 0.25 mm.

John-what is the brand of gold ink pen that you use? Most of the ones I have seen and used are a metallic paint.
Steve

[Scot Roberge]

I went through this a while back and tried several methods. The first method I was somewhat pleased with was to write the signature info with a Rapidograph technical pen using India ink. I did this after achieving a good seal and smooth finish in the signature area. Then I appied the last coat or two of finish over the inked signature info. This worked to my satisifaction, but my handwriting leaves a lot to be desired, so I began experimenting with computer typesetting and transfer. I now create the signature in Corel Draw, then print it as a mirror image to a laser printer with the toner density set as high as it will go. I then trim the printed output to fit the signature area and tape it in place. Next, I use one a flat tip in a soldering gun to heat and transfer the image to the bottom of the bowl. Once that is done, I use a woodburner with a fine tip to lightly trace over the transfered image. I lightly sand with 400 grit to clean up the burned edges and then apply the final coat or two of finish. This actually sounds more complicated than it is - especially when I do a batch at a time. For a piece I have several hours invested in, I feel the extra effort is appropriate . . .
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[Steve Vaughan]

Interesting topic. I use my dremel and the 1/32" tip, but only when it's a good, hard, tight grain wood, and only when the bottom provides enough space to write in. Where the space is smaller, or it's difficult wood grain, I don't use the dremel, but instead, it's some sort of acid-free marker in black, gold, silver, and sometimes blue...whatever contrasts well with the color of the wood.
And when I sign, I'll put my name or initials, depending on room...and sometimes "Handcrafted by..." along with the date, including the year, and the wood type.
For me, I include the year because I appreciate my uncle's signature, with year, when he signed those beautiful solid mahogany furniture pieces he did. Gives me great satisfaction to remember him, and the inspiration for woodworking he gave to me, and see those dates from the 60's and 70's. And, in the back of my mind, I guess I'm hoping it will be the same for my family and extended family members and all the pieces I've made them.

[Steve Mawson]

This is how I do mine. Fine tip wood burning tip, could be a little finer. I believe the tip can be filed but don't know how that affects the longevity. Also used the dremel engraver but like this a little better. Put the date on for a very short while, did not like to see the date at a later "date".

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[Dan Masshardt]

Thanks for all the good ideas! I'll try a couple different things and see what I like.

[Lee Koepke]

Always something new to think about. I hadnt really put thought into the date as it pertains to an items sale.

[John Keeton]

John-what is the brand of gold ink pen that you use? Most of the ones I have seen and used are a metallic paint.
Steve

This my first attempt at an iPhone pic upload! Sorry for the poor quality. The gold pen is .7mm and the copper is much larger.