Buying Cheap Used Routers?

[Keith Kelly]

I've recently been getting into woodworking, and I'm getting quite annoyed with the process of changing router bits. Goal: make the process a bit more natural.

The routers I have are:
* Good Hitachi, with a difficult bit changing mechanism (I have this mounted in a router table)
* Cheap Skil "Classic" plunge router

I'm seeing on Craigslist and eBay a bunch of Craftsmans that are selling for around $30-50. I'm going today to a coworker's house who's selling an old Craftsman router + old router table + old base for $50. Since I am content with the cheap Skil, I'm not too worried about getting 2 more cheapish used routers to add to my collection.

Advice? What should I be cautious of when buying used routers? Or, would you recommend going a completely different direction?

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

I have a very trashed cheap Skil (was used to trim drywall) and a cheap Craftsman among my many routers. They really aren't worth using except on very rare occasions. I also have a very old Montgomery Wards router. It was made by Stanley, so my Bosch accessories fit it, and it does get used, although not very often.

The main thing to consider, is how are you using the router, and what accuracy are you looking for. Noise level can also be an issue.

[Joe Hillmann]

Some of the craftsmans from the early 90's or so have a no tools depth adjustment that looks slick but in actual practice is it very difficult to use with any accuracy at all. Also when mounted in a table the same style router tends to be easily deflected when cutting. Even with those problems you can still do quality work with them it just makes them difficult to set up and you have to be careful not to put too much pressure on the bit when you are cutting.

[Jay Rasmussen]

Another option for you Keith,
Factory recon PC for 125 bucs. I have had great luck with my PC's.

http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-re...s-and-trimmers

Routers: the more the merrier

Jay

[Mike Henderson]

Routers come up on Craiglist pretty often around here, and sometimes they're in decent condition. Maybe the sale is an estate clearance or someone getting out of the business, or whatever. Personally, I'd look for a deal on a decent quality router. You don't have to buy a bunch all at once. Most of us wind up with a number of routers because, over time, we run into deals that are too good to pass up.

That said, I have an old, fairly inexpensive Ryobi trim router that I use a fair amount because I leave the same bit in it so it's ready to go. But trim routers are not stressed like full sized routers.

And finally, one more thing. Many old Craftsman routers were 1/4" shaft (only). You sure want a 1/2" shaft on a full sized router.

Mike

[pat warner]

Windows 98 or Win7 or 8?
Which would you choose?

[Keith Kelly]

Thanks all. Honestly, even one router would help quite a bit, so maybe instead of buying 2 cheap ones, maybe I get 1 that's decent. Both of mine are plunge, so maybe a single good fixed base model would be perfect.

The coworker's husband just offered me 2 routers + some other things for a pretty good price, so even if it's not something I stick with for long term, I'll do some research on the models, and if it's a deal too good to pass up, worst case would be that I can use them for a bit (no pun intended) and resell them.

1/2" shaft... but I have 1/4" bits (got the Skil 30pc set for on sale for $49 at Lowe's back when I first borrowed a router and wanted to learn). But, you bring up a good point. Since I am now aware of how to use a router (in some ways), and am buying new bits to actually make things instead of play, now's probably the time I ought to start transitioning to 1/2".

[Keith Kelly]

Windows 98 or Win7 or 8?
Which would you choose?

Windows 7 or Windows Server 2008 R2. But Windows 2000 was really a remarkable OS.


Operating systems are to process all the junk we throw at them and try to get from them. The stuff we expect it to process is generally greatly increasing in complexity.

Routers are to process wood.

I'm not saying all routers are the same, but I just wanted to give you a virtual, friendly, punch in the gut for the goofy analogy

[Mel Fulks]

Joe, if your router is hard to adjust move the dangling burned out light out of the way.

[William McRae]

Check out this Grizzly offer


http://www.grizzly.com/products/T220...ampaign=T22091

[Mike Cutler]

Keith

Cheap routers are exactly that. Cheap! Finding a good deal on a quality router is one thing, but just buying cheap, junkie, Sears routers is another all together.
Buy a pair, yes a pair, of nice, quality routers and you'll not regret it. You will also do better work with them, and the changing of the bit shouldn't be so annoying.

[Mike Henderson]

1/2" shaft... but I have 1/4" bits

Essentially all 1/2" routers also have a 1/4" collet. Some bits you'll want to use in your router really have to be 1/2" shank. The 1/4" is just too weak for them.

If you get a router that accepts 1/2" bits, you can use your 1/4" bits (with the 1/4" collet) and you can upgrade to 1/2" bits. If you buy a router that only takes 1/4" bits, you'll be stuck with 1/4" forever.

Mike

[Ron Kellison]

I have had 4 Craftsman routers through the years. I still have a couple stuck in a dark corner until I get around to listing them on Craigslist for $20 apiece. EVERY 1/4" router (3) had the same issue: The collet was turned on the end of the motor shaft and, when they started to slip, there was nothing I could do about it because you can't replace the collet. Nothing makes you want to throw a router across the shop like having the depth change on you during a cut because the bit slips and you can't tighten it any further! I should also mention that each of these was made by Emerson in the late 70s - early 80s so they may have changed their manufacturing process since then. I sold a 3 1/4hp Craftsman (made by Ryobi) that had no issues and worked well. I currently use a 1/2" PC plunge and a Freud 2000 for most work, and I have an OLD Stanley 1/4" that just keeps goin'. 2 of the 3 were bought used but in good condition.

Bottom line: Nothing wrong with used but I would search for better made used routers like Bosch, PC, Milwaukee, Makita, etc.

[Rick Potter]

King of cheap routers here. Please note I normally use the big PC in two router tables and a family of 690's that I use freehand ( most purchased used). Getting back to cheap routers, I will buy any small cheap router I can find. Yes they are hard to adjust, but when you leave the same round over, trim bit, or small ogee in it all the time, who cares? Yes, they are cheap, and only take 1/4" bits but that is all I want them for. It is so handy to just grab a small (emphasis on small) router and do the quick trim on something with an already set up bit (which cost more than the router in most cases).

I have a bunch of cheap B&D routers that are almost as small as trim routers, never paid more than $20. Bosch Colt (talk about hard to adjust) for $40. I even have an itsy bitsy Skil router that doesn't even have ball bearings, but it was FREE, and works fine. When they don't work anymore, they are disposable.

My advice, if you get some cheap used routers is look for the smallest one that will work for you. I have a 1/4" $20 Ryobi that I am getting rid of. It is too heavy and bulky for what it does.

I posted this before, but here is a pic of $105 worth of routers. The black B&D's are my favorite small ones. The Ryobi is the one I don't like.

.PC260158.jpg

Rick Potter
PS: 165 posting under 'router' on my local CL.

[Edmund Burke]

I have owned about 6 old Craftsman routers, inherited or bought used. I tried to use them as you have in mind, only for certain tasks, light duty, etc. I have never been happy with any of them. Especially compared to my Bosch 1617 or 690 PC, they are under-powered and they slip and deflect as others have noted. Having gone the "route" you are contemplating, I'd, advise spending another $60-70 and gettting one more good 1/2" collet router to go with what you have.