New Tablesaw Decision.

[John M. Cioffi]

Hi,
Could I get some feedback concerning table saws?
I am contemplating between the Baileigh cabinet saw and 2 Grizzly models, G0691 and the G1023RLX.
What would the differences be between them, that would make me chose one over the other?
They are all made in China @ the same factory, so I am not open to that discussion. My funds will not allow me to purchase my 'dream' machines (Powermatic, Sawstop, Delta), so these are what is on the table. I really want to make the proper choice, which is why I am asking here. Thru the years, I know many here have purchased some type of Grizzly model & most have been satisfied, I believe. I know there is one particular table saw that seems to stand above the rest, in the Grizzly line. Did I choose that one out of my2 choices, or is there another one?
your expertise will help me determine what I end up purchasing.
thank you for your time and response.
John

[scott spencer]

Which is “better” is subjective ….both of the Grizzly saws have large strong followings, and neither seems to be clearly superior in every way. Both have industrial yoke style cabinet mounted trunnions and a true riving knife, both are 3hp, and both have a standard 27” deep top with standard miter slots. Here are the differences I know of….the 1023 is made in Taiwan, has the Shop Fox Classic (Beise clone) fence, a generic 3hp motor, the blade lift is done via a vertical elevation screw held in place with dovetail ways, it uses a large serpentine drive belt, has a dust shroud and DC port at the back of the saw. The G0690 is made in China, has a different generic Biese clone fence, an Asian made Leeson 3hp motor, the blade is mounted at the end of a more traditional swing arm, uses a more traditional triple v-belt drive system, and the DC port exits to the right of the saw….there’s no blade shroud. The G0690 has 30” stock rip capacity to the right, and the G1023RL has 26” rip capacity….the rails can be easily slid farther to the right to gain ~ 10” more rip capacity on the right, or both are available with extra long rails for 50”+ capacity. Both are apparently effective designs, and are well proven enough that any issues would have come to light by now….I’ve heard of no systemic type issues, and very few negatives overall. Grizzly has videos of both saws online, online manuals, and a nifty comparison chart that may help give you more insights. I personally like the design updates of the G1023RL, but I don’t have hands on experience with them.

I'm not sure what benefits the Baleigh might have....longer warranty? Dealer support?

[John TenEyck]

If your dream saw is one of those others, why would you spend serious money on something else? If you need a saw but can't afford your dream saw I'd find a used saw instead and continue saving your money until you can buy the saw you really want. I keep seeing used Unisaws for $500 or less. Get one of those or something similar and when you're ready to get that dream saw you'll be able to sell it for just about what you paid for it, maybe more if you bought well. Those new ones - you'll be lucky to get half your money back. Personally, I love my 1954 Unisaw, and see no reason to upgrade because nothing but the Sawstop or a slider is an upgrade.

John

[Bill Space]

HI,

I went through the same thought process recently and decided on the G1023RLWX. The incremental cost was not much and I liked having the 5 HP motor and cast iron router table extension. I also like the "machine tool" way the blade assembly raised on the 1023, VS the way the G0690 accomplished the same thing, similar to older designs. More importantly, I like the single serpentine belt on the 1023 VS multiple belts on the G0690. Just my feeling...

Aside from the safety feature of the Sawstop Saw, which worst case is worth more than the price of that saw for sure, I do not see the saw stop much different than my G1023RLWX. I only say this because we have one at work and I have used it a time or two, but not much.

For me, I would say moving up from a Craftsman contractors saw to the G1023 was a move to my "dream machine"...

Certainly there are better saws out there...but if funds are limited...the Grizzly saws offer a great bang for the buck. At this point I personally don't feel the need for anything "better". Ignorance is bliss, perhaps....

Bill

[Jim Andrew]

The local craigs list has an old Unisaw for 300$. Surely there are used saws in Massachusetts. But if I were getting a new Grizzly, would get the 1023.

[David Thomas1]

I just played this game like a few weeks ago. Do I go with the new Grizzly or a used Unisaw or PM66 if they go at the right price? I went with the latter and got a 3 phase Unisaw for $267 total (Converter is going to cost another $2). I'm only saying this (and it kills me to say this because I know we're going to bidding against each other) but there's another auction coming that has multiple saws up for sale. If I can get a Unisaw for under $500 and save me the hassle of having to get the converted then I'm doing it and selling mine for $3.

**Edit**
Forgot to add that I'm in Mass too.

[Rick Fisher]

I would go used for sure.. Tools like that are just too simple to not be worth buying used..

I have a Shop Fox cabinet saw which is similar to the 1023.. Bought it about 8 years ago .. its been a good saw.. no issues ..

[Stephen Cherry]

I'll chime in also for the used unisaw. I would spend a little more money and get a relatively new (less than about 20 years old), beisemyer equipped, hobby shop used, 3 hp, single phase saw. These will come up occasionally on craigslist. In my area, 1000 dollars, plus or minus, will get you a nice one with a little patience.

The big advantage is that when you are ready to sell, you will get about what you paid, rather than taking a bath. Nothing wrong with the other saws, but they will loose half the value as soon as you get it.

[joe maday]

I side on getting a used saw. The only problem with delta, bearings and nuts and bolts are standard but any delta parts could be hard to get from suppliers because of the take over of the company and the parts production and supply has not been reliable. That being said I also have seen 20-30 year old 3hp unisaws for 500-1000, in great shape, PM66 800-1200. 3hp is plenty. unless you are cutting alot of 3+ inch maple. Even the 1 1/2 HP unisaws, which usually go in the 300-500 range work well with modern thin knerf blades.
Just bring a staight edge with you, look "under the hood" and try them out, There are plenty out there. The fence.... beise style fence is nice but the older round rail types have been used for decades and are just as accurate. The newer fences are just quicker to take off/on and cheaper to make for the companies.
A little elbow grease and a used saw would be like new. It would be "your Baby" and if purchased right the savings in money could be put toward one or two high end blades like Forrest or Ridge Carbide (my preference).

[John M. Cioffi]

Well, thanks guys for the valuable responses. Scott, that is a good analysis between saws. Thanks for the info. Maybe it is not quite the time to invest. I already have a Delta Grand White Contractor's saw, that is about 15 years old & in excellent condition. I wanted to upgrade to a cabinet saw, for the extra power & dust collection. Can't quite get that from the type I have. So, continuing to save towards one of the dream saws may be the way to go. It's a funny thing, that I noticed there were 351 hits on my thread, but only 8 replies. Does that mean that you are the only 8 people who know about tablesaws?
Thanks again for the info, gentlemen.
John

[Brian Brightwell]

My suggestion is buy used and be patent. I bought this Uni-Saw for $1000. A little high maybe but it was like new.



I like my Laguna more but it was more money !

[Jeff Duncan]

It's a funny thing, that I noticed there were 351 hits on my thread, but only 8 replies. Does that mean that you are the only 8 people who know about tablesaws?
Thanks again for the info, gentlemen.
John

My guess, and it's just a guess, is that the way you worded your post kept a lot of responders form answering.....like myself My advice is similar to the others in that used is sometimes a better way to go. Generally I'll chime in and give my "buy used" rant. As you seemed to want to limit the discussion to just a new saw out of three choices, I think a lot of guys like myself chose to move right along

So having said that I know a fair amount about table saws.....what else would you like to know

good luck,
JeffD

[scott spencer]

Well, thanks guys for the valuable responses. ....t's a funny thing, that I noticed there were 351 hits on my thread, but only 8 replies. Does that mean that you are the only 8 people who know about tablesaws?

Nah....lots of guys know about table saws, but not many can type!

[Joseph Tarantino]

the last time wood magazine tested 3 hp table saws, the new unisaw and sawstop's PCS were rated top tools with the grizzly 0691 rated a top value. laguna, powermatic, general and jet all finished out of the money.

[Michael Shoffner]

I'll throw another opinion in the mix for you. You can certainly get a fine machine on the used market, but the recent addition of riving knives to table saws is an important enough upgrade in safety to throw most used options out of consideration for me (since most older saws do not have them). Next to the Sawstop braking technology, adding a riving knife is the safest upgrade you can add to a table saw.
I have not seen any reviews out there yet on Baleigh's tablesaws. I am very curious there too.