Sjoberg Woodworkbench and its 1 inch holes

[Don Brubaker]

I found a few posts regarding the 1 inch holes for hold downs on the Sjoberg workbenches posted about a year ago.

I have the big 2500 and love it ....... except for the blasted NON-standard 1" holes that only hold about one accessory - the 1" hold down that's about $60 from Sjoberg.

The best potential solution seemed to be filling the holes with doweling and then redrilling to the standard 3/4" hole size. Potentially a lot of work, but for me, is worth it at this point since I am needing more of the use of these and the myriad of 3/4" accessories available out there (veritas, bench dog, rockler, etc.)

So, wondering if anyone has done anything to remedy this, such as gluing in dowels and re-drilling (and the best technique for the drilling) ....... OR ...... has anyone come up with another solution, such as sleeves / bushings to reduce the 1" holes to 3/4"?

My latest ongoing solution has been to persistently cuss at them, and Sjoberg, but this still doesn't seem to allow me to use the 3/4" accessories that I'd like to make use of! Funny how that works?

Any help / advice appreciated!
Thanks.

[Mark Wooden]

Get a few long style 3/4" to 1" Tee bushings for a shaper.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Long...D-x-1-OD/W1149

[Jeff Duncan]

Why not drill a parallel set of holes next to the 1" ones? Then you would have more flexibility were you to find some larger hold downs in the future

good luck,
JeffD

[glenn bradley]

Hardwood dowel 'em and re-drill if you want 3/4". I have doweled and redrilled a 3/4" hole once when I missed the position by more than I could tolerate. No issues with the repair.

[Jim Stewart]

Will Metal on metal work OK? I am just asking.

[Alan Lightstone]

Drives me nuts too. Can't imagine what they were thinking.

I'd love a good solution.

[Dave Verstraete]

Drives me nuts too. Can't imagine what they were thinking.

I'd love a good solution.

+2 on this and waiting for a good solution. Really thinking about drilling a parallel set of holes!

[Huck Schwee]

That bushing from Grizzly seems to be a pretty good idea.

[Alan Lightstone]

Yeah, that bushing idea caught my eye too.

[Don Brubaker]

Thanks for all the replys!
I did look into the bushing idea. Grizzly's ..... not sure material? ...... aluminum? steel? Don't think 1" is long enough for proper use of most of the hold down's / cauls since most work on friction. My Sjoberg holes are about 3" deep.

McMaster'sCarr has a LARGE selection of bronze bushings without a lip (or with a lip if desired). Max length is about 1-1/2" though. Cost is as low as $4.50-ish, which is good for bronze. But, still think they would need to be longer - 2-1/2" at least?
Also, not sure how well some of the 3/4" accessories would work with a metal sleeve?

The best idea would seem to be filling with 1" dowells and redrilling for 3/4".
I toyed with the idea of another set of holes, but I hate to "ruin" the "pretty top"!!!

Issue 1) - Think another set of holes might hurt the structural integrity / sturdiness of bench top?.
Any comments on that?

Issue 2) would be in redrilling ..... or even drilling new holes ..... suggestions as to keeping them square to the top? (Making a 3/4" drilling sleeve / base of about 2" thickness I guess?)

Appreciate any comments on these two "issues".
Thanks.

[Len Henkel]

Don, when you think about it why do you need to fill and re-drill all the holes? You probably only use 2-4 at one time. So if you can come up with an insert with a 3/4" center you should be good to go. You just need to slip them in the existing holes you need for the operation. You'll have to figure out a way to keep them from falling through the top. I'd be tempted to find some 1" brass or bronze bar stock. Should be easy enough to bore with a lathe or drill press. Only 3" long, right? You can practice with a 1" round of hardwood.

I'm with you in that I would not want ruin the pretty top.

[Mark Wooden]

Don, the shaper tee bushings are made of steel, and I think some grinding shops can supply them up to 2" long.
The thickness of your top is a funtion of stability and mass, not for the accessories. How long are your dogs?
The only thing I think might be a problem with a shorter bushing would be a bench hold down and looking at the Veritas, I think it would still lock in.
I'd try a tee bushing first, you'll only be out $6 or so.

[Alan Lightstone]

Would a press fit drill press bushing work? McMaster-Carr has one that is 1'3/4" in length. "Press-Fit Drill Bushing 0.75" (3/4") ID, 1" OD, 1-3/4" Length" http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-dr...shings/=o0edzg

or they also have a 3" long "Alloy 932 (SAE 660) Bronze Sleeve Bearing for 3/4" Shaft Diameter, 1" OD, 3" Length" http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sl...arings/=o0ecvo

[Jeff Duncan]

My thoughts....

Issue one: if the first set of holes didn't hurt the structural integrity of the top....why would the second? I've seen plenty of benches that feature a front and back set anyway. Just drill them so there's a few inches or more between them.

Issue two: I think making that jig is your best bet. That will get your hole started and then when you bottom out the drill, remove the jog and finish the hole.

For me the most important aspect of a bench is functionality. What it looks like is pretty far down the list. Now granted I wouldn't want to go drilling holes all over the place if it's not necessary either! But I do want the bench as functional as possible As far as inserts go I'm not a big fan of having steel embedded in the bench top! I'd prefer brass or aluminum if I was going to go that route. Just my two cents for the discussion!

good luck,
JeffD

[Michael W. Clark]

Could you epoxy the bushings to the accessories, that way there are no changes to the bench?