Angled Oak stair treads...

[Michael Dunn]

Hey guys!

I'd like to ask for some advice on how to approach this stair case remodel. Stairs are currently tiled, risers too. Tile will be removed. The staircase turns 90 degrees and therefor has 3 treads that must have an angled cut.

Should I use Red Oak hardwood for this or plywood? I plan to use plywood for the risers. I do not yet know what the situation is beneath the floor.

Should I tongue and groove the joint between the actual tread and the filler piece? You know how the angled piece will taper...

I don't have any pics, but I have a drawing.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

[Jerry Miner]

Michael--

The stairs you are asking about are called "winders." Plywood for risers is ok, but I would NOT use plywood for the tread--or any floor. The owners will not be able to sand and refinish at some future time.

You have two viable options, as I see it.

1. glue up solid treads for the winders

2. use a nosing at the leading edge and fill the rest of the winder with oak flooring. I would run the flooring parallel with the nosing, and, yes, a T&G joint would be appropriate.

[Michael Dunn]

Awesome! Thanx for the tips! Finally an excuse to order some T & G bits.

[Ethan Melad]

are you designing/laying out the stairs? don't forget that there are code requirements for tread depth, riser height, nosing, winder tread depth at its smallest point, handrails, etc. maybe this job's not getting inspected, but if it is, you want it to be right.

[Michael Dunn]

The stair case is already installed. I'm just removing the existing tiled stairs and replacing with red oak hardwood treads and plywood risers. The tread depth has been shortened due to the tiled risers being built out to be flush with the tread.

[Ethan Melad]

My main concern was the pointed (inside) corner of each winder tread as its drawn in the sketch you posted- here in MA you're not allowed to have that angle come to a point. it has to be cut square to leave at least a 2' deep tread at the shortest point. so i think most commonly you'd put a newel post at the corner and wind the treads around the post, thus leaving a squared end to the tread. granted, some inspectors might not look/care, but you never know.

[Michael Dunn]

Good info to know. I've never built an entire staircase before. I have gutted the old treads and risers and replaced with new. That's all this is, except MUCH more demo due to the crazy tiled staircase. This poor guy... I have no clue what he paid for these stairs, but I'm guessing $1500-$2000. Quite recently too. Now I'm tearing them apart. There pretty unsafe though. They also just had a new baby so safety is a big concern.

I don't really plan to redesign the entire staircase. It's a remodel situation so there won't be an inspector. I'm going to gut it down to the stringers, except the tile platform by the rear entry door, then T & G some 5/4 R.O. boards to make a custom fit large angled tread. Complete with a nice bullnose profile.

Any other tips guys, feel free.

[Jerry Miner]

Any other tips guys, feel free.

Please make sure you are keeping the riser heights equal (especially the topmost and bottom-most risers)--overlooking this is one of the biggest mistakes made by "stair remodelers."