How to break up Built-ins

[Jim German]

I'm going to be starting a new project soon, making some built-ins for the end of our living room. The wall is ~13' long, 8' ceilings. My plan right now is to make a handful of plywood boxes with some face frames. My biggest questions is how best to break it up into manageable size pieces. I have a pretty small shop so I don't want to go to big, but of course fewer boxes is less wood and less work.

Anyone have any thoughts?

[Jim Andrew]

I built an entertainment center for the living room, about 7' long. Of course I built the base and upper separate, just one cabinet each. Also built a wood countertop between the units, with the sides of the upper sitting on the top.

[Todd Burch]

Hi Jim.

There's a lot you haven't said yet, so I'll ask!

When you say "break up", do you mean in regards to dividing the space horizontally, vertically, or from all being on the same front plane?

If you are putting a TV in there? Are you wanting it centered? Are you into symmetry? Generally speaking, what's the purpose of the cabinetry?

Todd (who has built dozens of these)

[Michael W. Clark]

Once you settle on your design and how you are "breaking it up", I would build the face frames first. All the drawer fronts and doors can be built from the face frames. Drawer boxes can follow as long as you know the cabinet depth. Build the boxes last as they take up the most room.

[johnny means]

An elevation would get you a lot better response.

[Jim German]

An elevation would get you a lot better response.

Here you go!
Keep in mind this is just a sketch, the details aren't finialzed, so some bits of it don't make any sense.
Screen Shot 2013-09-04 at 6.27.39 PM.pngScreen Shot 2013-09-04 at 6.29.10 PM.png

[Michael W. Clark]

At first glance, I would do 3 lower cases, 3 upper cases, and add the top in 3 pieces too. I assume the middle section of the top will be deeper as to match the deeper middle section. You may even do a separate base and level it first if you want. Looks nice by the way, I like the breakfront design.

[Jim Becker]

For built-in cabinets, I generally build the carcasses in the shop and install in the space. The face frames are either assembled in-place or assembled in reasonably large sections to avoid visible joints as best as possible. For those face frames assembled in the shop, I build them slightly wide and scribe for installation. Face frames are installed using glue and 23 gage pins, sometimes with a couple biscuits along the top for alignment purposes.

[Judson Green]

+1 on what Michael and Jim said. But I'll add that you may want to make wall meeting styles (the ones you would scribe) removable and rabbit out much of the part you will be scribing. By removable I mean that these could be the last things you put on. Wall to wall cabinets are not fun to install. Good luck.

Your design looks nice be sure to post the after photos!

[Jim Becker]

+1 on what Michael and Jim said. But I'll add that you may want to make wall meeting styles (the ones you would scribe) removable and rabbit out much of the part you will be scribing. By removable I mean that these could be the last things you put on. Wall to wall cabinets are not fun to install. Good luck.

Yes, anything you can do to make the scribing easier is a great idea. "Thinning" up the ends of the stiles from the back with a rabbit is an excellent idea!

[Jim German]

I've started drawing up the detailed plans, with the idea to break it up as Michael suggested. I ran into the problem that the backs of the two upper side sections would need to be 53"x58". Anyone have any thoughts on how to deal with that? I'm planning on use birch plywood (painted white). I can't decide if I should break it up further, joint two smaller pieces of plywood together, or I might be able to get some baltic birch plywood in a 5'x5' sheet.

[Judson Green]

I've started drawing up the detailed plans, with the idea to break it up as Michael suggested. I ran into the problem that the backs of the two upper side sections would need to be 53"x58". Anyone have any thoughts on how to deal with that? I'm planning on use birch plywood (painted white). I can't decide if I should break it up further, joint two smaller pieces of plywood together, or I might be able to get some baltic birch plywood in a 5'x5' sheet.

2 pieces, seamed vertical at the middle ¾" vertical carcass section. I'm assuming its ¾". I know you'll only get ⅜" on each but it will work. Be very conservative with the glue and I do suggest you use some and angle your staples in.