Dave,
Did you score on any of the saw lots at the Avoca auction? All I got were a couple of wooden plow planes, an expensive plumb bob and a Preston turning saw (I "accumulate" plumb bobs and anything Preston).
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Dave,
Did you score on any of the saw lots at the Avoca auction? All I got were a couple of wooden plow planes, an expensive plumb bob and a Preston turning saw (I "accumulate" plumb bobs and anything Preston).
If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.
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No, I think I would've won one of the lots that I bid on but I don't know if the high bidder was a mail in bidder or someone at the auction (I had high bid on one of the bids they screwed up). They took my bids and switched them to other lots, which I then "won" (but didn't bid on and ultimately declined, of course)
Dealing with making sure they didn't send me the lots that they switched my bids to (which were junk lots) was a chore, but it was clear that they were pretty unconcerned about the whole thing despite the fact that I mentioned that I was pretty disappointed. I'd assume 99% of folks would have a better experience than I did, though. For the bids that didn't get screwed up, the prices are so high that I don't really even want to be in the running, but I'd have given a fair bit more than the winning bid on one of the auctions they switched me out of.
Last edited by David Weaver; 08-21-2013 at 2:25 PM.
Member
I have no quibble with what I bought as an absentee bidder. However I may quit auctions entirely, be they live or via the web, as I always seem to get items that are not high on my priority list (in other words, I have terminal auction-itus). If you recall at the time of the auction, a few of us here did indicate we had some issues with submitting bids. My issue was limited to not being able to access the site a few days before the submittal deadline. That could be that the MJD audience is growing beyond the size his server can handles.
PATINA and the two Brown sales/auctions will be it for me hereon out (or so I say at this moment).
If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.
Member
Maybe I missed it but what is the advantage of a tapered saw blade?
Good, Better, Best never let it rest
until your Good is Better and your Better is Best
Member of M-WTCA Area D
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What I'd always read is that the purpose was to help ensure you hit your line on the visible side of the work piece before you hit the back side and this avoid cutting past it. No idea if this is true, but it makes sense I guess. I mean if you are sawing down with the spine perpendicular to the piece the near side would hit the line sooner. I have a couple saws with tapered plates, and in reality I don't notice a difference in how they work then a non tapered plate, as I make a point to pay attention to where my line is regardless. Hang angles and rake have a far bigger impact on how the saw feels in general. I like them though, and if/when I buy/make more I will probably use tapered plates again, but honestly its mostly just because I think the tapered plates look cool. Its not something I would pay extra money for (and in the case of the LNs you don't), but its a cool feature given the option.Originally Posted by Mark Dorman
Last edited by Chris Griggs; 08-21-2013 at 9:55 PM.
Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...
[OP]
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The taper combined with the hang angle seem to work for me at least with the tapered crosscut saw. I did some x-cutting today on 6 in. wide 4/4 boards, and both sides of the board just seemed to finish at the same time without damaging the bench hook. This has not been the usual occurrence for me.
Old age can be better than the alternative.
Contributor
I suppose that begs the question about the tapered dovetail saw then. I mean how much is the taper going to help when cutting stock as thin as 1/2" or 3/4"?
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
[OP]
Member
Hilton, I have not yet had much time to work with the dovetail saw. I have just done some test cuts in 4/4 wood. I guess with Christmas coming, I will try to find a project to see how it works. So far with my bench height and sawing motion the crosscut works extremely well. It just seems to flatten out my stroke. As to dovetails, how the moxon vise and the bench height work together will be interesting to find out. However, my bench height is adjustable, so I hope to be able work it out.
Old age can be better than the alternative.
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Getting things "not high on the priority list" is a pretty good way to put it. If my bids would've been right, I would've won some mediocre stuff that I wanted, but the stuff that would've been more like what I wanted in my till is the kind of thing my bid isn't close on (despite bidding above their estimated ranges - you can usually guess the appropriate range from experience a lot better than they seem to be able to).
I'd imagine the audience for the MJD auctions are getting bigger than they can handle for internet bids. Another reason to avoid it until they can figure out what they're doing. Imagine those auctions were great things to go to 15 years ago.
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MATH TIME!!! The LN dovetail saw tapers 1/4" or .25" down its 10" length. .25/10 = .025 or 1/40th" taper per inch of saw plate. Divide that by 2 and you get 1/80th" of taper per 1/2". For 3/4" stock multiply 1/40th by 3/4 and you get 3/160ths" or 0.01875. More than enough taper!
Pretty self explanatory Hilton...Jeez surprised you even felt the need to ask
Last edited by Chris Griggs; 08-22-2013 at 8:32 AM.
Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...
Contributor
Ja well no so fine! (Saffer expression)For 3/4" stock multiply 1/40th by 3/4 and you get 3/160ths" or 0.01875. More than enough taper!
Pretty self explanatory Hilton...Jeez surprised you even felt the need to ask
The question remains, how much does the taper help me..........
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
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Don't know. I guess if you have a tendency to saw to the line on the side your facing you and just past it on the far side even a tiny bit is potentially helpful. I guess the reason I never thought it made the big of a difference to me is because I tend to saw with the saw tilted up hill a bit any way and then level it out at the end of the cut. The amount it helps probably depends on how you saw. I imagine that if you saw straight across even a tiny bit of taper would potentially help you out...you'd just be less likely to saw past the line on the side you can't see. Sounds like Lloyd found it helpful, it certainly doesn't hurt, so all things equal I'd opt the taper again. Have you noticed any benefit from it in your tenon saw?
Last edited by Chris Griggs; 08-22-2013 at 8:58 AM.
Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...
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I'll give the answer that many older folks used to give me when I was young (somehow, I got the nickname "24 questions"). When I asked how much on something subjective or variable, they would always say "about that much". Not with any hand signals or indications, just that verbal answer to throw me off!
I don't have any saws that I use regularly that have a tapered back, and I don't have any particularly problem overcutting base lines. If you look around at the old saws, though, a large proportion of them are tapered.
So it's the kind of question that has an "about that much" kind of answer.
Contributor
My question was merely rhetoric though.
Thought it would add to the ambiance of the thread.
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
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I'll get the candles and the muzak machine.
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