Wood Gloat/Input?

[Dan Hintz]

Stabilizing won't fix your ring shake troubles... Stabilizing resin does not fill cracks and voids. Casting with something like alumilite would work, but it's completely different than stabilizing. I'd cut spindle stock out of the blanks with shake. Roger's advice to remove all of the ring shake is sound... No reason to risk an injury.

Yep, should have been more clear on that one... I was thinking Silmar, since that's what I have on hand. throw in some Pearl-Ex powder and you got yourself some cool looking blanks.

[Harvey M. Taylor]

get some insect killer on that mesquite right now. I just lost about 50 pieces after going 100 miles to get it. It omly took about a week for the bugs to ruin it. As for windshake-- firewood or barbq flavored wood. Max

[alex grams]

I've already sprayed it down Harvey, but thanks for the advice. I turned about 3 small bowls last night from it. I always keep hearing people say turn mesquite green and just finish and let it air dry, but part of me is leery of that. I guess I have to do it and see for myself to believe it, so these 3 bowls will be my proof I suppose.

[alex grams]

A quick follow up question for anyone who may know. I am probably going to rip some spindle blanks about 3"x3" x 12-14" length. Can I treat these the same as bowl blanks and use them green, or do I need to give it more time to dry before using it for spindles? (pepper mills, kitchen utensil handles, etc)

[Adrian Anguiano]

They look great

[David E Keller]

You should be fine using it for handles, but I'd be a bit leery about using it for a peppermill unless you're looking at the single piece designs with crank handles on top. Mesquite is very stable in drying, but it only takes a little bit of movement to goof up a perfectly good peppermill. With that said, I've never tried it... I may be completely wrong about using it green for mills.

[alex grams]

I did a test last night and cut a log in half, and I was able to pop out the center core along the shake by just hitting a chisel a few times into the crack line. It was impressively easy to dislodge. I then mixed up some epoxy and painted both sides of the joint and hammered it back in and clamped it down. I am curious to see how it holds. I am going to chuck to the main piece of wood and turn the center face down first, that way if the joint does fail it will be the small piece falling off the large piece, not the small center piece on the lathe and the main chunk of the bowl going flying. I've got a cage I am going to put over the blank for an extra precaution, but when I cut the square blanks round, I will be able to get a good idea of how well the bond with the epoxy is and if it filled the gap well.

[Mike Cruz]

Alex, I don't mean to be a spoil sport, and I am not the usual overly cautious person on forums, but I'd be a little concerned about your "fix". The wood is wet, right? It is going to move. Eventually, that epoxied line will give way. Unfortunately, that might be while on the lathe! And I can't imagine it would end up being a pretty fix even if it held. Your best bet is to cut it away...