Repairing Worn Boxing

[Jared Withers]

Hi All,

I recently purchased a 3/8" side bead plane that is in good shape except the boxing in front of the blade has been worn down from use. It's about 3/32" shorter than the boxing behind the blade, which makes it near impossible to set a reasonable depth of cut. What's your suggested remedy for this? Photo attached with white paper behind for contrast.

Thanks,

Jared

photo-5.jpg

[Adam Maxwell]

Can you set your depth of cut based on the bead instead of the quirk? If you start sticking your molding at the end of the board and work backwards, it should be less of an issue. If you really need to repair it, finding actual boxwood may be the hardest part! I have a few planes where it looks like a new piece has been mitered in, but I don't recall the direction of the mitre offhand.

[Jared Withers]

Not really. The quirk is worn but the bead is not, so if I set the blade for a fine cut at the bead it will take a huge ragged bite at the quirk. The only things I can think of is to remove the front boxing (tricky) and shim it up or trim the rear boxing down and then reshape the bead with dowel and sandpaper. Wondering if there is an easier way...

[Chuck Nickerson]

I'm not sure it's easier, but here's what I've done about ruined boxing.

1. Secure new boxing material (I use Turkish boxwood), dimension the piece, and shape the profile.
I do this step first because it is the hardest, and if I give up step 2 hasn't ruined the plane.

2. Using a dado blade on a tablesaw, remove the old boxing. If the plane body needs any straightening
or flattening, do this before running the dado.

3. Install the boxing.

I've also followed these steps to install boxing a planes that should of had it to start with.

[Steve Voigt]

I agree with Chuck that replacing the boxing might be the best way to go. Two more thoughts:
- Doesn't really have to be boxwood--anything really hard will do.
- Before cutting out the boxing, I would try reversing the hide glue (it's almost certainly hide glue) and just sliding the boxing off. If you have an iron (like for ironing clothes) that can really blast steam out, that will work; if not, a tea kettle can work, but be careful, wear gloves or use tongs, etc. I've had good luck reversing hide glue in various situations.

[Richard Verwoest]

Try tapping the boxing out before applying steam. You are better off not introducing any moisture, if possible. Also, make a scratch stock to reestablish the profile.

[Adam Maxwell]

I guess I'll keep being the contrarian here; I think you're better off shortening the quirk portion of the iron, if it's digging in too much, or start out with a lighter set. From the photo, the boxing just doesn't look that bad to me, considering how much trouble you're liable to cause getting it out. Mine all take a pretty aggressive cut in the quirk.

[Peter Evans]

A good source of boxwood is beat up old rules.

[Patrick Tipton]

I have replaced the boxing in similar planes, although it was missing entirely.

The boxing should come out with a little heat/steam and a bit of force. I am sure that plane was stored in plenty of hot & humid conditions over its life so I would not be concerned about steaming it. It won't take much.

I see no benefit in reinventing the wheel to make a new section of boxing. Make a small shim out of whatever, be careful with the removal of the boxing and then reuse it with the appropriate shim. Use hide glue when you reinstall so the next guy has the same option.

[george wilson]

Be careful of old rules. Most were not made of boxwood. They were maple or beech. I think putting a shim under the original boxing is a good way to go. Much easier than trying to find good boxwood,and you are preserving a bit of history by re using. Be sure to replace the boxing with the grain at the correct angle if you do replace it. It doesn't just go straight vertical. Look carefully at the grain orientation in your old boxing. It matches the angle of the blade. That way,little pieces don't fall off behind and in front of the blade.