alykd varnish

[cathy comer]

I am having no luck finding alykd varnish, seems no one makes it. I live in upstate ny. I bought and used the last two quarts at my local independent paint store. I'm now using spar varnish which I dont like as well as alydk varnish. Does anyone know where i can purchase alykd vanish or what is a good subsitute. I don't like polyurthane it looks like plastic

[David Hawxhurst]

i think waterlox is alkyd vanish. pratt & lambert #38 would be a good one also.

[Scott Holmes]

Waterlox is a phenolic resin varnish. Much darker than an alkyd varnish. Another choice is Sherwin Williams (go to one of their paint stores) Classic Fast Dry Oil Varnish. (go to one of their paint stores) It's an alkyd resin linseed oil varnish. Not quite as light as P&L #38 but still a good alkyd varnish.

[Ernie Miller]

You can order P&L #38 from Pond Cove.

[cathy comer]

Scott I checked with my local independent paint store about getting me the Pratt and Lambert #38 varnish. The reply was that it is now owned by Sherwin Williams and is now garbage. Have you used this recently? I can order it on line but before I do I wondered if it is still a good product.

[cathy comer]

Have you used Pratt and Lambert #38 recently? I was told by my independent paint store that it was bought out by Sherwin Williams and is now garbage. So before I buy it have you used it lately?

[Ernie Miller]

Have you used Pratt and Lambert #38 recently? I was told by my independent paint store that it was bought out by Sherwin Williams and is now garbage. So before I buy it have you used it lately?

I've used P&L #38 within the last year. It's still listed on their website so I would take what your independent paint store said with a grain of salt. I'm somehow dubious that Sherwin Williams would buy a brand widely deemed to be a superior product, turn in into "garbage", and sell it under their name. I'm wondering if this "expert" has ever used #38, or perhaps he has something else he'd like to sell you. Chances are this "expert" was selling shoes at the mall last week.

[Rich Engelhardt]

The reply was that it is now owned by Sherwin Williams and is now garbage.

Sherwin Williams bought out Pratt and Lambert back in 1995 so it's not like it was a recent event.

I'm somehow dubious that Sherwin Williams would buy a brand widely deemed to be a superior product, turn in into "garbage", and sell it under their name

Why would that surprise you?
It happens all the time.
Look at all the decent products Irwin gobbled up and turned to mush - like Vice Grips.
Then there's Black and Decker, Bosch, RPM Industries,,,,,,,the list goes on and on and on...

[Ernie Miller]

Why would that surprise you?
It happens all the time.

What surprises me is the rather cavalier use of the word "garbage". If a product has been downgraded to that extent, then I agree with you. If not, as is this case, it sounds like a cheap shot by someone looking to sell an alternative product.

[Scott Holmes]

P&L #38 has not changed to my knowledge. A friend of mine will know the details; he sells a lot of P&L #38 www.hardwoodlumberandmore.com ask for Steve Mickley he's the guru...

[cathy comer]

I took a ride today and went to Rochester NY found a Pratt and Lambert dealer and bought 2 quarts of # 38. I asked the dealer and he told me that yes Sherwin Williams did buy Pratt and Lambert 10 years ago. But Sherwin Williams signed a contract not to change the formula of its products. He also said none of his customers have complained of any changes. So I'll give it a try. Now the next question--can I use this #38 varnish over a spar varnish? I'm using spar varnish on a Stickley cherry armoire I'm refinishing. I don't like it as well as the regular varnish that I just used on a birdseye maple dresser. I switched to spar varnish because I couldn't find regular varnish. I could strip the piece, I only have 1 side and the 3 drawers done and just put the first coat on the front of the piece. As a novice I have to say its hard, its frustrating-- but I love it. I love the satisfaction of how beautiful it looks when a piece is done. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Also its been 4 weeks since I finished the birdseye maple dresser with a alkyd varnish and now time to rub out it has a few nubs on top and sides. Ive read about it on the internet, lots of different advice but which is best so again any knowledge/advice will be great

[Jim Becker]

Cathy, spar varnish is a long-oil varnish and somewhat "soft"...it has to be flexible so that when the spars (!) bend, the finish doesn't crack off. It's an exterior finish and not designed to be used on furniture indoors, etc. So while you "can" put the P&L #38 over it, you're putting a hard finish over a soft finish. It will work. But it will not be as durable as if you used the #38 from the start.

[cathy comer]

Ok Jim thanks, now I am 2/3's done with this armoire. I have the last side to do and the 2 front doors. The only reason I used the spar varnish is because I couldn't find alkyd varnish locally. Two things have happened. 1st the spar varnish is developing clumps in it and quickly, I opened the can on Thursday and tonight I noticed the clumps. I did put the top on tightly. And I did add a small amount of paint thinner which didn't help. Can I strain them out and how do I do this? I got out some old glass canning jars and I'm going to put the spar varnish in that. 2nd I was very careful to stir stir stir the spar varnish every time I use it, but as I use more of the varnish (I've used about the half the can) the finish is getting duller. Why? It is a semi-gloss and now looks more like a satin. So can I fix this when I rub it out? What am I doing wrong? I'm ready to strip the piece and start over with alkyd varnish. And I can tell the difference between the spar being softer and alkyd being harder.

[Prashun Patel]

Which spar varnish is it, Cathy? Some spars are phenolic resin varnishes at their core, and they clump up quickly. once that starts, I would not use it, personally. I HAVE used old, clumpy spar varnish by filtering out the liquid, but it actually performed more like straight oil than varnish. It did dry, but was extremely soft. The only thing I would now use old varnish on is a workbench...

[cathy comer]

It is McCloskey Man o War spar vanish. What if I go over with it with alkyd varnish? Will the one side I have not finished yet look different if I use alkyd varnish? Or should I just strip it and start over?