As I first mentioned, I have seen the logosol mill at work and I think its a good solution for what it is. The down side is that it is relatively expensive for what you get. And you dont get the chain saw with it. Chain saws are always a pain to work on. Every spring we go through the ritual of throwing out the old fuel, mixing new fuel, cleaning off the saws, tuning the motors, adjusting the bars, sharpening the chains and inspecting for damage, etc. And excessive cutting of lumber with a chainsaw is plain hard on the saws. Period. And large bore Stihls and Huskys are not cheap to replace.
If this is the direction you wish to go you may wish to build your own logosol. They are brain dead simple and $150 to $200 dollars worth of structual steel is all that it would take. Granted the logosol is aluminum which makes it lighter to move about. But aluminium is more expensive and harder to weld if welding is needed. If I were to use a chain saw to do this, I would look into this setup. Logosol also has an electrical chainsaw which uses a very powerful 3 phase motor to replace the chain saw. If you cut at home, this would be the way to go. Just hook it up to your phase converter and off you go with none of the issues of running a chain saw.
As I have mentioned, I am building my own band mill. The worst item on my list of parts is the motor. Finding 4 cylinder diesels cheaply is not easy! The second worst problem is the rockford clutch assembly. Also not easy as there are not many used and they are a bit pricey when ordered. The third pain in the posterior part is the main beam. This is a rectangular tube about 25 feet long with 1/4 inch sidewalls. The cross section is at least 4 inches by 8 inches or 4 inches by 10 inches. Its not often something you find in the scrap metal yards! This will have to be a special order. The remaining metal parts are not not that significant. The trailer parts can be bought online or from outfits like redneck trailer supply.
Also note that the hydraulic system on a mizer type mill runs only when the head rig is parked at the front of the machine. It is also the only time that you need to maintain hydraulic flow to move logs onto the saw deck or to roll cants on the saw deck or to adjust your toe boards. So I am not really missing out on anything from a hydraulic point of view when the head rig is in motion.
So when all is said and done, I hope to have a bit less than $5000 dollars invested in my saw mill. It will also be comparable to an LT70 type mill whose cost is already above $35,000 to $40,000 dollars. If I purchase a new logosol mill with the required 066 class saw, I am looking at close to $3000 dollars. More if I get the expansion kits needed to allow me to cut a 20 foot log. You also need to consider what your pay back period is going to be like. I would have to cut one serious pile of lumber to payback the cost of an LT70 plus the finace charges associated with doing so. My number one goal to obtain an inhouse, stable supply of beetle kill, blue stain ponderosa and lodge pole tonque and groove lumber. I use a bunch of it and its hard to come by on a steady basis. I know where there are lots of logs but commercial loggers and mill shops dont wish to deal with it. Lastly, this is a fun machine to both build and use. And if this item of entertainment can also provide an adjunct cash flow, so much the better.
Had the dog not stopped to go to the bathroom, he would have caught the rabbit.
Reply With Quote
. Small logs I will drag / roll to the saw, but once they get over 2 ft dia it's simply quicker and easier to move the saw to the log.
Small logs are easy enough to saw, but not as productive as you spend more time setting up logs and less time with the blade in wood. 
....anyway, the one Shannon made is just right for the occassional user....try it out with a rented saw and you'll know if milling your own is right for you.
I guess if i cover it well and check on it from time to time it would be fine.
Originally Posted by jerry cousins
