Help with 220V Ceiling drops

[Michael Dunn]

Here's a pic of one ceiling drop.

[Frank Trinkle]

Here's a pic of one ceiling drop.

I definitely like that solution. Also looking at the webbed holds.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

[Jason White]

These are the kind of strain reliefs you're supposed to use for ceiling drops (see picture). They go through the KO hole in the center of the junction box cover.

[Jason White]

Here's one I put in yesterday using SO cord and a Leviton strain relief (pictures below).

Tarzan could swing from this thing!

I am in the middle of completely updating my woodshop. New tools, new house, dedicated three-car 960SF garage for my shop.
Next in the long line of tasks is the electrical system. The original owners of the house clearly used the garage for only cars and it is severely lacking outlets...and no 220V.

I am getting ready to pull the trigger with a highly rated electrical contractor to install 15 110V outlets, both wall mounted and ceiling mounted (for lights and air filtration system). Then adding 9 220-240V outlets. One dedicated to a 3HP Cyclone DC, another dedicated for an HVAC system to be installed later in the spring. The others can share breakers as only one machine will operate at a time.

I want to install four 220V ceiling drops on 10-3 wire to power my machines central in the workshop. I seem to remember seeing a thread that had pictures of how some of you have done it...safely...but I can't find the thread(s). Obviously, 10-3 is heavy, and I plan to use twist locks, but I would love to have some recommendations and pictures of how you mount from the ceiling, and what products or mods you use to secure the outlets. I want to get with my contractor and show pictures of what I want, and would greatly appreciate the help any of you can give.

Final note. We WILL be pulling permits from the city, and will be subject to inspection, so whatever solutions are offered will have to meet Florida specs.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Frank

[Charles Lent]

To pass inspection you are going to need the same type cord grip (chinese finger trap) on the bottom end of the cable too. They make a different version that's designed to fit into the clamp on the back of the receptacle. Your electrical supply should have them.

Charley

[Jerome Hanby]

Before he moved, my neighbor was an electrician, so I got advice from him on how to do the wiring in my shop. For 220 drops, he said to put a box in the ceiling, and buy a piece of heavy cord, cut it the right length for my hanging plug, and tie a knot in it and put the knot in the box with the cord hanging down.

Same here. I wired everything out to the boxes with 10/3. Purchased 12 gauge extension cords, cut the plugs, and wired them into the box using these for strain relief.




For the 240 volt circuits, I also cut the receptacle end and replaced it with the 240 volt fitting that matched the tool. I couldn't find anything nearly as flexible as the extension cords and the big box had a fair price on them.

I used 10/3 so I could swap between 240 volt singles, or 120 volt duplex with a breaker change and minimal wiring change.

[Jerome Hanby]

Here's one I put in yesterday using SO cord and a Leviton strain relief (pictures below).

Tarzan could swing from this thing!

Is there a cost effective supplier for these things? I looked at them when I did my wiring, but the cost seemed way out of proportion to what was being supplied. Just took a quick look at Amazon and Leviton was over $17!!!

[Jason White]

Yes, that's what I paid on Amazon for mine, but the quality is great and worth the money I spent.

Is there a cost effective supplier for these things? I looked at them when I did my wiring, but the cost seemed way out of proportion to what was being supplied. Just took a quick look at Amazon and Leviton was over $17!!!

[Jason White]

That is not a strain relief. That is a ROMEX clamp and it'll eventually dig into the sheathing of your cord.

Same here. I wired everything out to the boxes with 10/3. Purchased 12 gauge extension cords, cut the plugs, and wired them into the box using these for strain relief.




For the 240 volt circuits, I also cut the receptacle end and replaced it with the 240 volt fitting that matched the tool. I couldn't find anything nearly as flexible as the extension cords and the big box had a fair price on them.

I used 10/3 so I could swap between 240 volt singles, or 120 volt duplex with a breaker change and minimal wiring change.

[Jason White]

Lots of great ideas (with pictures) and info here...

http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/press/pdfs/WLBVM002.pdf

I am in the middle of completely updating my woodshop. New tools, new house, dedicated three-car 960SF garage for my shop.
Next in the long line of tasks is the electrical system. The original owners of the house clearly used the garage for only cars and it is severely lacking outlets...and no 220V.

I am getting ready to pull the trigger with a highly rated electrical contractor to install 15 110V outlets, both wall mounted and ceiling mounted (for lights and air filtration system). Then adding 9 220-240V outlets. One dedicated to a 3HP Cyclone DC, another dedicated for an HVAC system to be installed later in the spring. The others can share breakers as only one machine will operate at a time.

I want to install four 220V ceiling drops on 10-3 wire to power my machines central in the workshop. I seem to remember seeing a thread that had pictures of how some of you have done it...safely...but I can't find the thread(s). Obviously, 10-3 is heavy, and I plan to use twist locks, but I would love to have some recommendations and pictures of how you mount from the ceiling, and what products or mods you use to secure the outlets. I want to get with my contractor and show pictures of what I want, and would greatly appreciate the help any of you can give.

Final note. We WILL be pulling permits from the city, and will be subject to inspection, so whatever solutions are offered will have to meet Florida specs.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Frank

[Jason White]

Charles -- I'm trying to find a picture of what you're talking about online and can't fine one (strain relief for the receptacle end of the cord). Do you have a picture or link to one that you can share?

To pass inspection you are going to need the same type cord grip (chinese finger trap) on the bottom end of the cable too. They make a different version that's designed to fit into the clamp on the back of the receptacle. Your electrical supply should have them.

Charley

[Charles Lent]

Jason,

Sorry no picture (can't get it to post), but if you go to the Kellums catalog they are listed as "I-Grips". They are basically the same Chinese finger trap design for gripping the cable, but with attachment rings to connect to the screws on the rear clamp part of Hubbell style cable plugs and connectors.


http://www.afielektrik.com/pdf/urunl...l-wiring/t.pdf



Charley

[Chris Rosenberger]

Like some of the others, we just used junction boxes & covers. We cut holes in the covers & used standard box connectors.
We have several around the shop. Many of them have been in use for over 20 years without any problems.

[Charles Lent]

Chris,

Your solution might work for you, but it is far from safe or acceptable because an accidental tug on any cable will pull the cable jacket out of the clamp and the clamp will likely cut into one or more of the wires. Sparks and a possible fire will result. Your installation will be an immediate fail if it is ever inspected for electrical code compliance, or a fire marshal or OSHA inspector sees it. If this is in your your home you better make sure that you have good fire insurance.

Nothing has happened, so far, but you are stacking the cards against you when you do things like this. Compliance with the electrical code won't guarantee full electrical safety, but it's the best way known to avoid trouble.

Charley
A retired EE and fire marshal

[Marty Tippin]

I just purchased several Hubbell cable support grips to use with my 220V feeds coming from the ceiling. They're the same "chinese finger cuff" design already posted, except they don't connect directly to the outlet box - you anchor them to the ceiling instead. I like these because of the separate anchor - you won't rip the box out of the ceiling if you pull on the cable.

Got mine here http://www.zorotools.com/g/Cable%20S...bhsAYg&whence= and they were delivered in 2 days.