Resawing problems. Boards coming off, wedge shaped

[Gus Dundon]

I agree with Metod. If you're feeding the log too fast, it will cause the blade to deflect more which results to wedge shaped boards. With 3TPI blade , a moderate feed rate should be applied.

[dirk martin]

Ok, but doesn't it seem odd he's recommending low tension? Everyone else says crank up the tension. This seems like a radical departure from the norm.....

[James Conrad]

Ok, but doesn't it seem odd he's recommending low tension? Everyone else says crank up the tension. This seems like a radical departure from the norm.....

He is describing the tensioning of the blade by the flutter method. You don't do it while cutting.

[Mark A Johnson]

Try going back and recheck your BS setup. Back off all the guides and make sure that your blade is running center on the wheels. Before you reset the guides making sure the table is square to the blade. And recheck your fence, you can a aux fence for taller pieces. If its still net cutting true, replace the saw blade. Using a good saw blade thats is set correctly you shouldn't need a drift fence.

There are some articles on FW and there is also some stuff on Timberwolf site about setup. I went through the same on my BS when I went to cut some Australian Burls, replacing the saw blade resolved the issue.

Nice saw hope that helps

[Metod Alif]

Ok, but doesn't it seem odd he's recommending low tension? Everyone else says crank up the tension. This seems like a radical departure from the norm.....

Going easy on the tension was not my idea. I figured, if it works for some highly competent woodworkers, it is worth trying. Keep in mind that a bandsaw works on a 'pull stroke'.
Many years ago, Fine Woodworking magazine had an article advocating high tension. A while later they reconsidered - and the 'expert' was not writing for them anymore.
If a saw is properly tuned, a dull blade will still cause problems, even if the operator's skill is adequate.
What I find odd is that many do not evaluate/analyze various information or misinformation. Every progress is, in essence, a departure from the norm.
Best wishes,
Metod

[dirk martin]

Every progress is, in essence, a departure from the norm.

Metod

Wow....love that phrase.
me thinks ill carve that into a sign.....

[Erik Loza]

Dirk, late to the discussion and not sure if you have made any headway with this but here are my thoughts...

"Low tension" is not where you want to be on the blade. At least not on this task. That is, in my experience, the #1 cause of cutting performance complaints among my owners: Inadequate blade tension. That being said, I usually see a wandering cut with too low of tension, not a cut trapezoidal in profile, so I kind of don't think tension is the culprit here. But it is never a bad idea to try a different blade in any case, just to eliminate that as a possibility.

As others have already asked, have you confirmed that the cast iron table is 90-degrees too the blade and that the fence is co-planar to the blade as well as likewise 90-degrees to the table? Also, have you checked that the guidepost is plumb to the cast iron table through its full travel? On big resaw-capacity machines like the MM24, if that adjustment is not correct, the guidepost can travel quite a bit away from plumb as it gets cranked up or down. Lastly, if you are resawing much tall stuff at all, it is just a good idea to either fabricate or to purchase an auxiliary tall fence. It just makes everything easier. This is the auxiliary fence that my colleague, Sam, fabricated for one of his MM24's. Nothing fancy, just a tall fence of solid wood that has countersunk holes and can be screwed to the cast iron fence (which was drilled and tapped for machine screws)....



Also, what blade is this if I can ask? Not sure if it was mentioned already.

Thanks,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA