Ebony and Holly finishing questions

[Brian Brown]

A customer requested some small spindles made from Holly and Ebony. They also have some coral inlay. I have the traditional problems with ebony dust getting into the coral and holly, but have done a pretty good job keeping them clean. The problem I have is that the coral color bleeds when it comes into contact with finishes. Also, I want t use a finish that won't cause the holly to turn yellow. Because of the color change, CA is out. Oil finishes will cause some yellowing, and will not dry well on ebony (the wood oil). That leaves me with lacquer, shellac, and maybe WTF. The solvent in lacquer will likely make the coral bleed. The shellac, I don't know. My questions are:

Will shellac cause a color change in holly?
Will shellac cause color bleeding?
Will WTF cause color bleeding?
How well will lacquer stick to ebony?
Do you have any other suggestions for a finish that meets all of the other criteria above?

Thanks for the help!

[Bill Davis]

A customer requested some small spindles made from Holly and Ebony. They also have some coral inlay. I have the traditional problems with ebony dust getting into the coral and holly, but have done a pretty good job keeping them clean. The problem I have is that the coral color bleeds when it comes into contact with finishes. Also, I want t use a finish that won't cause the holly to turn yellow. Because of the color change, CA is out. Oil finishes will cause some yellowing, and will not dry well on ebony (the wood oil). That leaves me with lacquer, shellac, and maybe WTF. The solvent in lacquer will likely make the coral bleed. The shellac, I don't know. My questions are:

Will shellac cause a color change in holly?
Will shellac cause color bleeding?
Will WTF cause color bleeding?
How well will lacquer stick to ebony?
Do you have any other suggestions for a finish that meets all of the other criteria above?

Thanks for the help!

I have used lacquer on Makassar Ebony on a number of occasions without adhesion problems. Cannot offer any advice on your other questions.

[John Keeton]

Sounds like some test pieces would be a good plan. Shellac will definitely impart an amber hue to holly. I have used lacquer on both ebony and holly with good results but know nothing about the coral. I also like Krylon acrylic spray on holly for a clear finish, but usually in matte or satin.

[Michael Stafford]

Lacquer would be my choice for the holly to preserve the whiteness. I know nothing about what will happen when lacquer and the coral inlace meet.

Testing is definitely the way to go.

[John Beaver]

I spray deft sanding sealer or shellac on my pieces with holly and ebony. A couple of coats before sanding, and then a few along the way really helps keep the holly clean. I think it would work on the coral if you spray light coats. Lacquer works well on both woods over the sanding sealer. Krylon should work well too.

[Greg Just]

I would recommend Zinzer's wax free sanding sealer. This remains clear as opposed to Zinsser de-waxed shellac which can turn amber.

[Bill White]

Zinsser SealCoat dewaxed shellac.
Bill

[Prashun Patel]

Zinsser Sealcoat will impart slight amber.

Deft Finish in the rattlecan is a convenient 'white' solution.

If you like to make your own shellac, you can purchase "platina" shellacs, which are about as white as lacquer.

[Thom Sturgill]

Thin brush on lacquer very thin (3:1 or 4:1 mineral spirits to lacquer) and use that as your sanding sealer. Apply as much as the piece will absorb, then sand. reapply as needed being careful to not sand through.

Apply lacquer straight from the rattle can in light passes to finish. Remember that the primary difference in satin, semi-gloss and gloss is the amount and type of solids added for drying and leveling. A semi-gloss or even satin blend can be buffed to a high gloss, while the solids in gloss can be a problem if it is allowed to build too quickly.

Deft uses the same solids in satin and semi-gloss 'rattle-can' and brushing lacquers but a different formula for their gloss spray finish if I recall correctly.

[robert baccus]

Deft finish is merely very thin lacquer and takes forever to build a decent layer. The "semigloss" is an actual intentional product which can be purchased by the quart and is very handy. I would avoid using mineral spirits on lacquer and go to a lacquer thinner for the sake of compatability. Brushing lacquer is merely lac. with retarder (a slower drying thinner) added to aid flowout. If you are using a gun rush down and find a good retarder and read the label. It is a necessity for a good lacquer experience especially for blushing and flowout. An old hotrodder.