Sawstop question

[Dale Turner]

Alright, so I'm about to bite the bullet and get a sawstop cabinet saw for the shop. Of course I want the 3hp 52 inch version, but funds are tight. This will be my first 'real' table saw and I want to make the right call on it. Can you guys give me some feedback on the different versions and your experience with them to help me chose the right one? My main question is the 1.75hp motor and is that enough for cabinet making? I'm already stressing the budget as it is so a thousand dollar difference is a big deal.

What does everyone think?

[Prashun Patel]

You do have 220v available, right?

For cabinet making, where you're cutting predominantly < 1" and a lot of plywood, the 1.75hp will be fine.

If you need to rip hardwood > 2", then you will notice a difference (I did, when I switched from my Jet ProShop 1.75hp to a SS PCS).

By the same token, if you are doing a lot of sheet goods, then the wider rail can be a boon. However, I find it more ergonomic, safer, and space-optimal to use a circular saw for breakdown.

[Sam Murdoch]

Not speaking to the Saw Stop specifically but a 1 3/4 HP table saw is plenty powerful for cabinetmaking and much more. In line with Prashun, I think that for partsing out sheet goods a much better investment is a good track saw and a flat table.

I'm sure that the 3HP Saw Stop is an awesomely stable and accurate saw - just saying that you can do soooo much with a smaller saw especially if you are not running a commercial production type shop. I'd rather spend the money on a good bandsaw (later) and the track saw sooner. I have been building cabinetry long before track saws were available. The track saw in MHO is revolutionary as to processing sheet goods. Not so much for solid wood but for that woodworking there is the table saw and/or bandsaw.

[Rick Potter]

One thing to watch out for is the fence. There is a less expensive fence on the 1.75 version, at least there was a few months ago.

Rick Potter

[Jim Barstow]

I second the smaller table and a track saw. I have a ss table saw and with an incra fence on the smaller table. It is incredible accurate. I can't imagine trying to wrestle a sheet of plywood onto a bigger table. I sprung for a festool track saw to break plywood down into manageable pieces.

[glenn bradley]

There is an element of interpretation to the term "cabinet making". I think plywood when I hear cabinet making but, that is not what everyone thinks. I ran a Craftsman zipcode saw with 1-3/4HP for many years and it always did what I asked of it. I use little in the way of sheet goods and composites. I work mostly in hardwoods. With a good rip blade and the saw well tuned I could rip 8/4 beech without issue so the power was always adequate.

When I moved to a Saw Stop I went ahead and went with the 3HP, 52" model and couldn't be happier. Having a Beisemeyer on the previous saw, the fence was as important to me as other features of the saw when trying to decide. If you go with the lower powered saw, I think you will do fine as long as you keep your cutters sharp. I would opt for the better fence as in my humble opinion, after the saw's ability to be properly aligned, the fence is the second thing in importance; power comes in third being neck and neck with dust collection capability ;-)

You could just use my method for talking myself into things . . . let's see, $1000 more for the saw I really want. If I use the saw at least 3 hours per week for the next ten years, that's only 64 cents an hour. Yep, get the 3HP!

[Keith Hankins]

Of course you are asking an for an opinion so you will get a bunch I'd bet. As someone who's been down the road quite a few times, I'll say get the most saw you can. I have never ever seen anyone say to me. Dang that saw is just too powerful. However, I've seen many a folk say "I could just kick myself for not spending a little more and getting what I wanted". I can only see going the 1.75 is if you cannot do 220v. Plain and simple. I've had the small saws, and had a 3hp for over 10years. No comparison at all. If you have to have the safety part and I like it, then don't sacrifice saw to get it. Go save a little longer and get what you want! Now you say cabinet making, and you will only cut ply and 1" stock you could do that easily. I think you will find yourself starting to expand your horizons and you will push the limits of the 1.75 saw. I've got a 3 hp griz with 7' rails but would like to have a 5 hp. You can also think if budget is the issue, of getting an old american piece of iron that you can get for a song and use that while you save. Sorry for the long winded response, but I settled once for contractor saw and it was the worst regret of my life. Good luck.

[mreza Salav]

Cry once and buy the 3HP if you have 220V. You'd appreciate having it when you are ripping 2" thick material (unless you only make cabinets and nothing else).
The money will be long forgotten in the years you'll be using it. I have managed to stall my 3HP (SS) a few times when pushing a little too fast some 3" maple into it (and wished had 5HP) but those occasions are very rare compare to 1.75HP vs. 3HP.

[Mike Henderson]

I appreciate the funding problem. But a cabinet saw is likely to be a lifetime purchase. I'd also recommend you bite the bullet and get the 3Hp cabinet saw if you have 230V available to it. It's a great saw.

Mike

[Mark Churay]

After looking over the various Saw Stop models I decided on the PCS 3 HP 36" saw. I saw the fence in the 1.75 HP saw and the better fence was a deciding factor for me. I don't cut 4 x 8 sheets on the table saw and the 52" is really eats up the space. Once I breakdown plywood with a circular saw then I use the table saw. I had a 1.75 HP saw (not Saw Stop) and found that cutting any thick hardwood was a pain. Also spend the extra money and get the Industrial Mobile Base. I will say that Saw Stop has the easiest assembly and setup. Be sure that you have a set of metric wrenches. You'll need a 13,14 and 17mm. A set of Gear Wrenches was very helpful. They provide the Allen wrenches though I used a set that I fit on a 3/8" ratchet at times. I found a "U" joint for the ratchet useful. I didn't have any issues with the blade to miter slot or fence setup. This is one of best setup saws out of the box I've ever seen. I used a 1/16th piece of steel to set up the rip fence tube and it was right in the money. This is one really superior saw. Only gripe (and I have this for all saws ) is the rear fence on the right does not go to the end of the 36" extension exposing the MDF & pine corner to damage. I may graft some steel angle there. Have done that before. The OEM blade is made in China and I replaced it and didn't even put it on the saw. Finally be sure to get some help during unpacking and putting on the CI wings. They are heavy. It takes 3-4 guys to put the saw on the Industrial Base too.
Mark

[johnny means]

congrats. Let me say, YOU SUCKI think you'll be very happy with your decision. A little more power and less fence, IMO is the way to go.

[Bill Space]

I don't think the OP has responded since posting...

But I would ask why a Saw Stop if funds are limited? Granted the technology is top notch. But it only comes into play if the body part contacts the blade. And even then there is no guarantee... there have been recorded instances (maybe only a couple) where fingers were lost (or parts of fingers, don't remember the specifics now) with a saw stop saw.

Myself, I choose a Grizzly table saw. Funds available being one reason. I decided to pay attention and think ahead when working. To use push sticks and the riving knife, and hold downs, the blade guard, and so on. Figuring that I could minimize the potential for my fingers coming into close proximity or contacting the blade worst case. Can I error? Yep! Will I error? Hope not!!!

I guess my point is that if one does his best to work in a safe manner that minimizes the chances his fingers or hand will be pushed into the path of the blade, then the pay back for the extra cost of the Saw Stop table saw reduces significantly. IF funds are limited, one needs to consider the probabilities.

Personally, I could have purchased a Saw Stop table saw I suppose, but elected not to as I felt I could use the additional funds more productively for other purposes. Now if I lose a finger or worse in the future my error will be obvious. It has not happened in 40 years but it could.

At the end of the day, those who are most careless are the greatest benefactors of the Saw Stop technology. Where do you fit in as far as taking the utmost precautions OR being cavalier when using your table saw?

I only offer this perspective because the OP mentioned his concern for funds available...if one wants to do his best to minimize the chances of physical harm...well then the ultimate answer would be not to turn the table saw on. Point being there is no guarantee that one will not be injured even with the Saw Stop technology...

Can safe operating practices balance favorable against Saw Stop technology? Heck, I don't really know. But in my case I think they can...but where is the proof? I don't have it...

There was a past post here regarding a lawsuit filed against (or somehow related to the Saw Stop technology, don't remember which) which pointed out physical harm suffered even with the saw stop technology. Sorry I don't have a link... a search may turn it up if one is interested. Surprised me...

My only point is there is more to being safe in the shop than just using technology that attempts to prevent damage AFTER an event occurs. If one's resources are limited, perhaps acting in a manner that will reduce the likelihood of a bad thing happening will net the same result at less monetary cost.

Sorry if this sounds like a rant...it is not meant to be...if Saw Stop technology were free and replacement parts and blades were free, who would not use it? To me it boils down to simple economics... Does the benefit out weigh the cost for a given individual? Each of us must come to our own decision.

Just some thoughts for the OP to consider...

[Mike Henderson]

At the end of the day, those who are most careless are the greatest benefactors of the Saw Stop technology. Where do you fit in as far as taking the utmost precautions OR being cavalier when using your table saw?

I've heard of a number of people who were very experienced woodworkers who had a serious table saw accident, some after 40 years of woodworking. They're called "accidents" for a reason.

I look at the SawStop as insurance. If something happens and my hand gets into the blade, the technology is there to back me up. And if I ever have an accident, the extra cost of the SawStop will be well worth it.

Mike

[Kyle Iwamoto]

At the end of the day, those who are most careless are the greatest benefactors of the Saw Stop technology. Where do you fit in as far as taking the utmost precautions OR being cavalier when using your table saw?
...

And I thought this was going to be free from Sawstop bashing. You don't even know how others work, and you call me and other careless? I take care and plan every cut. Just because my saw has a brake, I am FAR from CARELESS. I hope I never use that feature. I am glad I have it.

Good luck in remaining free from accidents.

[Mac Cambra]

I agree with Mike, accidents happen, vigilant adherence to all safety precautions is what we all try to ensure regardless of the saw we own ( I have a SS ICS, ~5 years) but the fact is lapses happen. Most times we're lucky and nothing happens but all you need is one unlucky day.

The other point I want to make, my previous saw, a 3HP Delta Unisaw, I purchased it new from Woodworker's Supply for about $1450. I used the saw for about 5 years prior to upgrading to my Sawstop. I sold the Unisaw for $1200, had upgraded the splitter to a Biesemeyer, etc., probably all told $1700 in materials. The net cost of the saw after 5 years of use was only about $500. I guess my point is good tools hold their value especially when the are well cared for and maintained. If you ever decide to part with the tool you can easily recover a good portion of the investment. Something to keep in mind, its not like you are throwing the money away, its just changing form.

How's that for justifying an expensive tool? I really do need help don't I?