Clamps???

[Michael Moscicki]

Here is what the end result will look like:
Shoe Shelf Final2.jpg

The longest clamps I currently have are 24 inch Jorgensen 3724-HD's. I need to buy some clamps and am looking for advice.

Option 1: Twelve 48 inch Jorgensen Cabinet Masters 8048 for $402 with shipping from Ebay.

Option 2: Twelve Jorgensen 36 in. Heavy-Duty Bar Clamps for $227.64 at Home Depot.

Option 3: Four Pony 15 ft Band Clamps for $35 from Ebay.

Option 4: Four Pony 15 ft Band Clamps and four 48 inch Cabinet Masters 8048 for $173 from Ebay. Four cabinet masters for some support in case the band clamps are not strong enough by themselves.

Are there any other options I should consider?

I would rather not spend over $200 since I am also looking to buy the Ridgid eb4424 to avoid hand sanding.

1x2 s4s maple acclimating in the room next to the hallway where the shelf will end up. I still have a long way to go before I get to the clamping stage, so I have some time.

DSCN6062small.jpg

[shane lyall]

The steel clamps from HF are one of their few gems. The Quick Grip copies aren't worth bringing home but I use the blue bar clamps every day with no issues. the're 1/3 the price as well

[John Hays]

The steel clamps from HF are one of their few gems.

Agreed. I've also never had a problem with their 48" aluminum bar clamps (Item #38185) either.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have Besey & Gross Stabil parallel clamps. Those would work great, of course.

But, to be honest, I would likely grab some of my 3/4" pipe clamps. Use cauls across the ends where the shelves meet, and clamp the cauls. You can measure the diagonals to be sure things are square - easy to do and adjust if needed.

You can get a lot of clamping capability for a few bucks with these - and changin lengths is simply buying different lengths of pipe.

Kind of heresy, I realize - pipe clamps. But they have done a great job for me for many years. 30+ sets of clamps across 40+ pipe sections. I still use the parallel clamps, of course, but it isn't hard-core doctrine with me.

[Jim Andrew]

The heavy duty bar clamps at Home Depot, are those the I beams? If so buy them. I can bend pipe clamps, over tightening them. I have been buying cabinet masters and I beam clamps, and the heavy duty F clamps. Menards had some 24" on sale on the made in america sale.

[Mike Cutler]

You should definitely invest in clamps, but there is another way.

A kit of T-88 epoxy, and a roll of fiberglass tape, would be a lot less than the clamps.

PS.
I'm not seeing a member to prevent "racking" in your design. I can see it will be a low stress piece, but the only thing preventing side to side and rotational, twisting, movement will be glue. Must be something not shown?

[Wade Lippman]

I would consider using pocket screws.

[Wade Lippman]

You should definitely invest in clamps, but there is another way.

A kit of T-88 epoxy, and a roll of fiberglass tape, would be a lot less than the clamps.

n?

I give up, what do you do with the fiberglass?

[Greg Hines, MD]

One thing you can do, if you have enough of your 24" clamps, as well as the usual quick grips and c-clamps that many of us have, is to use your 24" clamps with either additional cauls clamped across your shelf boards, to allow the shorter clamps to purchase onto the cauls, or make connectors, such as a bit of plywood, with holes in the ends of them to accept one end of your stubby clamps. Then you can use your shorter clamps to apply pressure as needed.

That said, if you are in the market for new clamps, I would suggest that you get the ones you need for your current project. Six 36" or 48" would be sufficient, in my opinion, so I am not sure why you are asking about getting twelve of them.

Doc

[Jim Matthews]

I wouldn't use clamps to make this, I would use wedges.

The sides and racks should be made individually, and on a flat surface.
Fix one side so it can't move against a batten.
(I screw those down to my bench - I know it's heresey!)

Fix another batten parallel to the first wide enough to fit the assembly in place.
Drive wedges next to each crosspiece to bring the joint home.
(A little glue squeeze out is good.)

I can't make out from your Sketchup if the racks are attached to some sort of cleat, or just a butt joint.
Butt-joints have zero mechanical strength.

If you are joining each long spar to a cleat at the opposite ends, use a spacer block to set an equal reveal.
Two simple fine nails at the end will hold things aligned until the glue dries.

Lastly, without some sort of brace between the uprights and the crosspieces,
You'll have racking forces trying to drive the bottom of the uprights outward.

Some sort of gusset in the middle will counteract the static load.

[Mike Cutler]

I give up, what do you do with the fiberglass?

Hmm,,,, I must be using the wrong term Wade.
I know fiberglass tape to be the roll of tape you would buy for sending a package. It is tape reinforced with fiberglass roving that you would buy at a Staples, or an office supply type store.
The purpose of the tape would be to pull the project together tight enough to seat the joints, get it square, and long enough to let the T-88 set. The tape would come off the next day.

I'm an epoxy guy, (a holdover from my boat repair days). I know most folks don't like epoxy, but I'm pretty comfortable with it.
I rarely use Titebond. It's a great product, so don't get me wrong, but I've been using epoxy for 3+ decades now and am just more comfortable with it.

[Curt Harms]

Hmm,,,, I must be using the wrong term Wade.
I know fiberglass tape to be the roll of tape you would buy for sending a package. It is tape reinforced with fiberglass roving that you would buy at a Staples, or an office supply type store.
The purpose of the tape would be to pull the project together tight enough to seat the joints, get it square, and long enough to let the T-88 set. The tape would come off the next day.

I'm an epoxy guy, (a holdover from my boat repair days). I know most folks don't like epoxy, but I'm pretty comfortable with it.
I rarely use Titebond. It's a great product, so don't get me wrong, but I've been using epoxy for 3+ decades now and am just more comfortable with it.

What you're referring to is sometimes called packing tape. And yeah, T-88 has a long open time when that's required and is gap filling, not a common attribute of most woodworking glues. It also doesn't require the clamping pressure recommended for PVA glues, just enough to bring the pieces together which might be a benefit to Michael. Tape, band clamps, aluminum bar clamps, there's many ways to defur this feline. I like the aluminum bar clamps for situations where heavy clamps can cause things to sag, 48" aluminum bar clamps only weigh a couple lbs. each.

[glenn bradley]

I'll make a rare recommendation for pipe clamps. I primarily use parallel clamps for all the wonderful reasons people use parallel clamps but, they come with quite a price tag a you've found. The 12 48" Cabinet Masters are at a good price but, I can count the number of times I have needed a 48" clamp on my fingers and you have to store them when you aren't using them.

Although pipe clamps are a bit crude, when combined with some curved cauls they can be very effective. They can also change lengths and identities with the substitution of a piece of pipe or the coupling of existing pipe via an inexpensive coupler. I picked up a dozen on a deal 7 or 8 years ago and have been glad to have them. A while back I added some pads/cauls that act as stands. Greatly increased my frequency of use ;-)

Pipe Clamp Cauls (7).jpgPipe Clamp Cauls (8).jpgPipe Clamp Cauls (9).jpgPipe Clamp Cauls (10).jpg

[Sam Murdoch]

Another simple option is to use your 24" clamps but have them meet in the middle - so 2 clamps will pull as one.

[Michael Moscicki]

Just to update:

Went with six 48 inch Jorgensen Cabinet Masters 8048 for $204.00 with shipping from Ebay.

Would have been $312.13 for six Bessey K-Body REVO Fixed Jaw Parallel Clamp, 40".
Would have been $354.42 for three Jet 70440-2 40" Parallel Clamp, set of 2.

So I ended up saving over $100 which will be invested in some nice Whiteside router bits.

Will provide pics when they arrive.