How steep is the learning curve for the Vari-Grind (new & infrequent turner)

[Jay Maiers]

Hello all,
I'm finally getting ready to do a little turning. I've bought the basic Wolverine system (arm and platform), and am getting ready to add to it. I'm new to turning and sharpening lathe tools, and it's not likely to be something I do a lot of; right now turning is a means to an end and not the focus of my woodworking.

I've researched the various grinding jigs and am down to the Vari-Grind and the Sharp Fast jig. How steep is the learning curve for the Vari-Grind, and will I (an infrequent user at best) be able to get consistent results?

I'm inclined to pick the Sharp Fast jig simply because it appears to remove at least one variable from the equation and because it will be a little safer. That said, if it's not difficult to get good results with the Vari-Grind (again, keeping my projected limited use), I'd opt for it instead for the increased flexibility.

Thanks!
Jay

[Scott Hackler]

Once the Wolverine base is installed, the Vari-grinds angle it set and locked down (you usually never move that wing nut again). Then it's super easy and simple to provide repeatability with you sharpening....which is key to learning tool presentation on the wood. You always want the exact same edge / grind on each tool so don't have to re-learn the technique to compensate for the grind of the day. Later one, after more experience, you will be able to experiment with different grinds and will likely have multiple gouges with different grinds, for different applications.

[Roger Chandler]

+1 on Scotts reply!

[Tim Rinehart]

Yep, what Scott said. One piece of advice...search out a local turning club or turner to show you how to use it and about the two basic grinds for a bowl gouge...an Irish or fingernail grind, and a bottom feed grind. The bottom feed is usually just done with the platform, but it's much easier to have someone spend 5 minutes showing you, than to ruin good steel experimenting with the right grind on your own. Just having the Vari-grind setup correct doesn't assure consistent results, you still need to address the shape of the grind...which the Vari-grind will help you with vs free-hand sharpening.

[Richard Coers]

Biggest mistake beginners make on the Vari-grind is not spending enough time on the nose of the gouge. They get the wings right, but end up with too pointed of tool. Spend the same amount of time on the nose as you do the wings, and it will be fairly easy. I have no idea of how skilled you are, or what kind of touch you have, so can't say how long it will take you to learn. Speaking of touch, a lot of beginners go at the grinding wheel like they are sharpening a lawn mower blade. Use as light of touch as you will turning and it does just fine. Lean into the grind and you will have trouble.

[Jim Underwood]

Pay close attention to your gouge shape. You don't want concave cutting edges on your wings. You want a nice straight or slightly convex edges on the wings. Also the nose should blend in nicely, nice and round with no dips or spurs... You don't want the salmon beak hook...

Take a look at the shapes on Doug Thompson tools website and you'll see what to emulate.

[Brian Kent]

You can take away one variable by drilling a 2" hole in a piece of wood that is anchored next to the grinder. That is how much the tool sticks out beyond the varigrind.

[Jeremy Hamaker]

I'm new to turning and sharpening lathe tools, and it's not likely to be something I do a lot of; right now turning is a means to an end and not the focus of my woodworking.

I start by saying that if you're using your lathe at all, you're sharpening. And you're sharpening a lot. The amount of miles that go under your gouge bevel adds up quick. More than one turner has said they leave their grinder running at all times, so they don't have to wait for it to spool up all the times they touch up the edge. (and to preempt all the follow up comments, yes: a grinder left running is less safe than a stopped one...).

My opinion is that the learning curve on the Vari-Grind is not much different than the Sharp-Fast (or the Vari-Grind2 for that matter). You're going to have most of your learning with how quickly you sweep across the wings, how you transition from wing to tip/ tip to wing, and how much pressure you put on the tool against the wheel (hint: almost none). By the time you get those right, whether that one axis is fixed or not is small potatoes.

[Bill Wyko]

I go an entirely different rout, I use a wet sharpener. Sparks in my shop would very likely burn it down. Wood floors deep in sawdust almost all the time. I use a Jet WS with Tormek jigs. Here's a youtube video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7V4bjePKkM

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Dave at D-Way Tools has some videos showing his grind on several tools using the wolverine and varigrind jig - they're worth watching.

[robert baccus]

It's easy to forget that gouges come in U and V flutes which can make a difference when grinding.

[Jay Maiers]

Thanks guys. I'll give the Vari-Grind a shot.
Right now I'm working with less-than-optimal tools (read: cheap imports and some older Craftsman stuff). I'll spend some time grinding on those before picking up some better steel.

Right now I'm concentrating on smallish spindle shapes. The roughing gouge and the rounded scrapers I'm using have been doing a decent job, and they're a breeze to sharpen. However, after reading a few dozen pages in this forum, I know it's just a matter of time 'till the bowl bug bites, and I'd like to be prepared when it does!


Thanks again!

[Thomas Canfield]

The Vari-Grind jig is real simple and easy to learn and use. It will give you a consistent grind if you set your tool in the jig the same each time with a set block, drilled hole, or even the length of the V-notch on the bar. One major factor for me was getting the grinding wheel properly dressed and the Wolverine diamond dressing jig was the key for me. Now a light pass gives a sharp edge in just seconds.