Shop recepticals

[Michael Hammers]

Hello,
I am rough wiring my garage\shop conversion this weekend and am curious about others and their electrical shop needs set up.

I have a 20x20 area, and will need a minimum of 4 220V outlets for the PTAC unit and the few 220V tools I have.
I am thinking of running just one side of the shop on 220v to save some money on wiring.
Not sure too about how many 120v outlets either. Al I can come up with is "a lot"

Any and all help appreciated,

Thanks,

M

[Dan Hintz]

If I was trying to keep it generic, I might put in a 220V and a dual 120V socket every 3rd stud (assuming 16" OC). That will give you plenty of sockets to work with no matter where you are in the shop. Every other socket group is on the same line, so two separate circuits alternating. Except for the dust collector, it's unlikely you'd be running heavy-draw machines that far apart from each other. If you have a lot of equipment that might be heavy power draws, go with 3 circuits alternating, or run alternate circuits separate for each wall.

[Michael Hammers]

Thanks Dan, that seems like a good plan. Ill post some pics of progress tomorrow.
I have been following a fellow on YouTube called the down to earth woodworker and he has a pretty good series on converting a garage to woodshop.

[Jerome Hanby]

I used a variation of Dan's plan. I ran duplex 120 volt outlets down the two long walls of my shop. Since the terminology is always a little open for interpretation, each wall was on it's own 20 amp duplex breaker with all the top outlets on one leg and all the bottom outlets on the second leg. My though was I could plug in dust collection and a power tool at each stop and have no worries about popping the breaker. I ran all my 240 volt circuits one outlet per breaker.

[Rick Potter]

If the average tool cord is 6', you could probably go 10' or so between outlets. I wouldn't go any farther.

Rick Potter

[Dan Hintz]

Oh, and as an added extra...

Make sure the sockets are at a minimum 48" above the ground... I'd shoot for 52"-54". This way sheet goods can lean against a wall without getting in the way.

[Shawn Russell]

That is a brilliant idea and I wish I had put my sockets at 48 and above.

Oh, and as an added extra...

Make sure the sockets are at a minimum 48" above the ground... I'd shoot for 52"-54". This way sheet goods can lean against a wall without getting in the way.

[Jason White]

Put in a couple of 220 ceiling drops. Very handy and fewer cords to trip over.

[Don Jarvie]

Spread the 220s through out the shop. I put most of my 220s in 1 section and wished I spread the out. Also use 110/220 outlets (20 amp) so if you want to change out some outlets you only need to change the breaker.

[Jerome Hanby]

Put in a couple of 220 ceiling drops. Very handy and fewer cords to trip over.

I second that suggestion. I dropped two to handle my Table Saw and dust collector "island". Left me lots of room on all sides to maneuver material.

[Michael Hammers]

Well didnt get as much done as I wanted...it looks like I will have to have a new line run into the garage. Will need to install all new breaker box and all pieces to it.
Now searching for a reasonable electrician who can do such....

[Jim Neeley]

Michael,

A side note that's generally inexpensive to comply with if you do it upfront on 120/125V, 15A or 20A non-locking receptacles. Please note that this only applies if your jurisdiction requires conformance to the 2008 or 2011 National Electric Code. I've researched this because I have planned a major electrical upgrade for my own garage / shop.

If you are covered by the 2008 NEC
===========================
Section 406.11 requires all receptacles identified in section 210.52 to be tamper-resistant (the little child-resistant "shutter doors").
Section 210.52(G) identifies receptacles in basements or garages.
If your garage is "unfinished", Section 210.8(A)(5) requires they also be GFCI protected.
If your garage is "finished", Section 210.8(A)(2) also requires GFCI protection.

If you are covered by the 2011 NEC
===========================
Section 406.12 clarifies the above to say that all "non-locking" receptacles identified in section 210.52 to be tamper-resistant.
Sections 210.52(G), 210.8(A)(5) and 210.8(A)(2) remain materially the same.

The cost for the shuttered receptacles isn't a big thing but if you're being inspected you don't want to incur a re-purchase, re-work and re-inspection due to failure to meet these critera the first time through.

Check with your local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) to determine whether or not this applies in your area.

Jim in Alaska
(Also Electrical Engineer) <g>