SCMI 24" BS on for $1800...

[Rick Fisher]

I have a 24" SCMI Bandsaw. It will resaw up to 12-1/2" with ease.

The 18" Rikon should do the job, I wonder what type of blade your using on the Rikon ?

[Joseph Tarantino]

...... I just resawed some 8/4 Cherry on my Rikon 10-340 with less than desirable results........

without looking to be rude, i'd investigate the saw set up first and my technique second before moving on to another machine. that 10-340 is a great BS and, properly set up and bladed, should handle cherry with relative ease.

[Jim Matthews]

Out of curiousity (I don't have a dog in this fight) - what's the cost of a Gee-whiz blade for your current saw compared to the $1800 plus new blades for the Centauro?

There's a great desire to get tooling up front on a new gig.
Those purchases would be better made, with some form of lease based on deposits for existing orders.

Having unused capacity is a drain on your cash flow.
You might pay more for a similar machine later,
but you'll have cash put by on that date.

Better to wait.

[eugene thomas]

I have 14" and 17" saw so get by but if upgrading I would want new saw to have at least 16" or for resawing. Every time do project that am going to make veneer that resaw height never seems to be enough.

[Larry Fox]

I might be inclined to grab it. Other than not having the utility of the $1800 while you make up your mind it seems like a $0.00 cost option as it is a very high quality machine and you should be able to sell it for at least what you paid for it should you change your mind.

[Richard Coers]

I have 14" and 17" saw so get by but if upgrading I would want new saw to have at least 16" or for resawing. Every time do project that am going to make veneer that resaw height never seems to be enough.

You guys must be getting monster timbers. 16" resaw capacity? Sounds like you need a small bandsaw mill. Really nice for resaw up to 24", and you don't have to wrestle the stock.

[Michael Dunn]

without looking to be rude, i'd investigate the saw set up first and my technique second before moving on to another machine. that 10-340 is a great BS and, properly set up and bladed, should handle cherry with relative ease.

I hear ya. It could very well be just that. I have a 3/4" TW blade, but I think a 3/4" WS is on the 10-340 at the moment. I wasn't even actually looking for this BS or a BS at all. I came across it while looking for something else that I actually need. A SCMS.

I do need to read/watch about resaw technique. I'm pretty sure my saw is setup properly. I'm guessing it is my technique.

[Michael Dunn]

Out of curiousity (I don't have a dog in this fight) - what's the cost of a Gee-whiz blade for your current saw compared to the $1800 plus new blades for the Centauro? There's a great desire to get tooling up front on a new gig. Those purchases would be better made, with some form of lease based on deposits for existing orders. Having unused capacity is a drain on your cash flow. You might pay more for a similar machine later, but you'll have cash put by on that date. Better to wait.

I opted not to buy this 24" SCMI. It just isn't the right timing. There are other glaring needs in my shop. I still have to buy all the 8" and 6" PVC and fittings. I still need a good SCMS. That's about it for the types of jobs I'm landing of late.

Thanx for being a voice of reason along with the one or two other guys.

[Jeff Duncan]

I'd have to agree with your decision, there are a lot of expenses setting up a new shop! That wasn't so great a deal that you'll never see it again so sometimes you have to let them go. Although I will say if you end up doing a lot of re-sawing you will eventually want a bigger saw. I've been doing more and more of it the last few years and I may be looking to upgrade my Delta 20" in the next couple years.

Second unrelated point.....this is your professional shop now. Don't know about your area or if your going to eventually have employees or really anything about your situation.....but if you plan on growing your business the PVC pipe for duct collection is not going to cut it down the road. It's fine for hobby shops and such, but if you ever get inspected forget about it! Something you may want to reconsider before shelling out a lot of cash on something you may have to toss a couple years from now. Spiral is expensive but it's pretty much standard for pro shops.

good luck,
JeffD

[Michael W. Clark]

Second unrelated point.....this is your professional shop now. Don't know about your area or if your going to eventually have employees or really anything about your situation.....but if you plan on growing your business the PVC pipe for duct collection is not going to cut it down the road. It's fine for hobby shops and such, but if you ever get inspected forget about it! Something you may want to reconsider before shelling out a lot of cash on something you may have to toss a couple years from now. Spiral is expensive but it's pretty much standard for pro shops.

good luck,
JeffD

+1 on what Jeff said. Conductive materials are required for the duct system. I think they are required for the collector as well, may want to check on that, I know you were looking at a CV. If it were me, I would get a 5HP bagger and sit it in the corner. A picky inspector can get fussy about the cyclone as well since it is an "enclosed collector".

Mike

[Tai Fu]

What blade are you using to resaw your cherry? Are you using a bimetal or carbide blade? Does the blade have too many teeth? If your blade is too fine for the thickness you will have problem no matter what bandsaw you use. For 12 inch of stock even 1.3 TPI seems to be a little too much. A 18" bandsaw shouldn't have problem handling that thickness... I've even seen people do it on a 14" bandsaw with a riser block! The other issue is if you are using carbon steel blades or Timberwolf, heat can quickly destroy a carbon steel blade. Bimetal lasts about 5 times longer because it takes a much higher heat to ruin a bimetal tip (about enough to light the wood on fire). It's possible to dull your resaw blade halfway through a cut if the blade gets too hot.

I'd look into Resaw King, Woodmaster CT, or Trimaster if you are going to resaw more than a few times. Those blades will be much cheaper than a new bandsaw for sure!

[Jim Matthews]

... you should be able to sell it for at least what you paid for it should you change your mind.

Look to the original listing of the item for sale to see how long this one has been on the market.
That should give the OP an idea of how long something like can sit, unsold.

The bandsaw won't be any younger, or worth more money when that time comes.

Something this large appeals to a very small market.

Unless delivery is part of the price, few can safely move something this size - let alone dedicate sufficient space to such a large tool.

[Tai Fu]

Yea, when I was looking for the bandsaw I saw a 26" for only a little more than my 18" bandsaw, but the problem is I am not even sure it will fit in the shop, let alone through the door. So I passed on it... I'd love to have a 26" bandsaw and put a 2" blade .7 TPI on it... could cut through whole logs with that!

[Loren Woirhaye]

Considering the weight and price of the saw, you might consider getting something even bigger and heavier. I see 36" cast iron 9' tall American made band saws selling at auction regularly for under $1000, often for $500. The reason is they are very heavy, a hassle to move, may require wiring upgrades, and most shops just don't need a saw that large for the work they do. Due to the large in the frame and wheels they run super smooth.

Consider if dedicating a machine to production resawing, you'll probably want a resaw feeder/fence setup.

[Joseph Tarantino]

...... I have a 3/4" TW blade............

that could be the problem. stick with a woodslicer or a similar quality blade from iturra. well made blades can really affect the performance of a BS.