Kreg K5 - has something changed ?

[Kelly Colin Mark]

Specifically, I am wondering whether the guide blocks and the associated screw length recommendations have changed.

I had to buy a K5 when I couldn't find my older model Kreg jig. Some manuals for older jigs indicate a screw length of 1" for 1/2" stock; however on the K5 they indicate a 3/4" screw. As far as I can tell, the 3/4" screw requires the Micro drill guide. When using 1" screws on the K5, they go out the other side of the mating stock.

I have a fair supply of 1" screws. Once I add the price of the K5, the Micro drill guide, and some 3/4" screws, I'm not too far from the price of their "Master Collection", which comes with the older K3, but also includes the Micro drill guide, the HD guide, two clamps, and 1000 screws. I'm frankly not up-to-date on the differences between the K3 and K5.

So what's the deal ? Has the jig changed so that it requires different screw lengths ?

Is there a compelling reason to go with one or the other ?

[Rich Engelhardt]

Has the jig changed so that it requires different screw lengths ?

Kreg lost a law suit over a patent infringement with the K3 and it's front clamp system.
That's why it was discontinued and the K4, with it's rear clamp, took it's place.
A lot of people were unhappy about not having the clamp on the front.

It looks like the K5 has moved the clamp back to the front.
So - either Kreg made some sort of deal with the guy they lost the law suit to or they found a way around the patent that allowed the clamp to go back on the front of the jig.

[Chris Rosenberger]

I do not have the Kreg K5, but this should work the same on all Kreg jigs. To use a longer screw, all you need to do is lower the stop collar on the drill bit so the hole is not drilled as deep. The countersink hole needs to be just deep enough to get the screw head below the surface of the material.

[Kelly Colin Mark]

I do not have the Kreg K5, but this should work the same on all Kreg jigs. To use a longer screw, all you need to do is lower the stop collar on the drill bit so the hole is not drilled as deep. The countersink hole needs to be just deep enough to get the screw head below the surface of the material.

I never thought of this - good idea in a fix.

Rich - I knew of the handle moving to the back and then to the front and that it was a source of some complaints. I think the K3 has the handle in the front, so I guess I should have asked: is there a reason to go with the K5 over the K3 ?

Thanks !

[Matt Meiser]

Kreg lost a law suit over a patent infringement with the K3 and it's front clamp system.
That's why it was discontinued and the K4, with it's rear clamp, took it's place.

I keep seeing that but they are currently selling (or were just a couple months ago) a master set that had the K3. Could just mean they paid the royalty so they could sell out their stock.

[Dan Rude]

It is my understanding that Kreg settled the lawsuit by buying the patent that was the center of the suit. I think they already had the K-4 in production. I went from the K-2 to the K-4 in order to use the same assembly for the micro jig and HD. The new K-5 is auto adjust which intrigues me since I sometimes switch between drill sizes in the same project. I did run across this u-tube of someone's answer to automatic clamping. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_j_e_apxZc I might try this if I have time. Dan

[Phil Thien]

Kreg won the lawsuit, and they purchased the patents to prevent appeal.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Yep - my mistake.
Kreg actually won the suit in a jury trial, but, bought the patents from Joon Park to prevent an appeal.
However - the front clamp of the K3 was one of the disputed features & Kreg discontinued using it.

. I think the K3 has the handle in the front, so I guess I should have asked: is there a reason to go with the K5 over the K3 ?

For a while the K3 was listed on Kreg's web site as discontinued.
I just now checked and it looks like Kreg is offering the K3 base as a separate piece for $69.99
http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-K3-Fron...-Prodview.html
It looks like you still need to buy either the K5 or the K4 to get the guide blocks.
Might as well just get the K5.