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Thread: Longworth Bowl Chuck

  1. #1

    Longworth Bowl Chuck

    Earlier this year, I decided to take up bowl turning.

    Now about 150 bowls later, I began looking for an easier way to finish turn the bottom of the bowl. I am not a big fan of leaving tenon as a base, or leaving the screw holes in the bottom of the bowl from faceplate mounting. I also did not like taking the time to make jam chucks, and all of the commercially available solutions to finishing off the bottom of a bowl are WAY overpriced.

    After some internet searching, I saw a few designs for a device called a Longworth Chuck, and decided it would be easy enough to whip one up without spending much money. The chuck consists of two discs that rotate against each other, self center the bowl on a series of opposing arcs, and allow for quick clamping the work piece.

    I documented the build process in case anyone else wants to take a swing at making one of these. I didn't detail every step, since there are plenty of other writeups on the internet for building one of these guys.

    First up, I used my band saw to cut two 20" diameter discs out of some scrap 1/2" MDF core material, and bolted them together through the center. Then I laid out a few holes for starting and stopping points on my pin router:


    I used a compass to lay out each arc, and drilled some alignment holes on my drill press:


    At the center point of each arc, I drilled an alignment hole to act as a pivot point to route the arcs.


    All of the internet plans I saw for these used a hand router with a trammel base to cut the arcs. I fortunately have an easier method. Here is an overall shot of my pin router setup:


    And now with all of the arcs routed to full depth. I made two passes to ease the material removal process:


    From there, I had to get some rubber stoppers to use for clamping the bowl to the chuck. I bored a through hole for a 1/4-20 bolt on my drill press. To center the hole, I drilled a 5/8" hole in a scrap piece of wood, and then jammed the stopper in the hole to perfectly center it for drilling:


    In this pic, you can see the whole chuck assembled. After it was routed, I flipped one of the discs over,and aligned them on center using a bolt. I then used a 1/4-20 bolt with some wing nuts and washers to mate with the rubber stopper and act as a means for clamping the workpiece.


    I still have a serious shortage of faceplates that fit my lathe, so I deceided to use a piece of 1" thick HDPE plastic to clamp the Longworth chuck in my 4 jaw scroll chuck. The dense plastic is affixed to the back plate of my chuck via bolts, and is turned round to match the dovetail profile of my chuck jaws.


    Here is an osage bowl that I turned the tenon off of, and added some decorative V-grooves to the base:


    It turned out that the rubber stoppers would mar my bowls, so I ended up adding some masking tape around them to solve the issue:


    And a boxelder bowl ready for tenon removal:



    The chuck has the capacity to hold an 18.75" bowl . I plan to make a smaller version of this chuck around 14" in diameter to work smaller bowls. Even though I can turn 20" bowls on my lathe, the reality is that I normally don't. Bowls that size are hard to market, and are not as much fun to turn. Also on the size topic, I feel safe running this chuck at no more that 600 rpm. It is great at that speed to take light finishing cuts with a bowl gouge to remove any evidence of how the bowl was held.

    Thanks for reading.


    Kyle VanMeter

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    McMinnville, Tennessee
    Posts
    1,040
    Some folks don't like the longworth chucks but I do. I have made a few and afterwards our club had a workshop on making them and I helped several members to make one. Fun to make and easy to use.


    Sid
    Sid Matheny
    McMinnville, TN

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Norristown, Pa
    Posts
    270
    Word of caution,l I have had several bowls come loose from the longworth chuck and now bring the tail stop up until the nib has to be removed. Be safe.


    Bob

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Fort Pierce, Florida
    Posts
    3,498
    I don't think the action of a longworth chuck is that different from cole jaws on a scroll chuck. I had bad experiences with those, but think that the issue was the buttons themselves. The design or size of them might be critical to a good hold, and mine was a PSI chuck, so not the best design.

    If I can not use my vacuum chuck, I use a donut chuck. Much more secure IMHO.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Olalla, WA
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    589
    I have long admired the elegance of the Longworth chuck and still want to build one, but since most of my forms have irregular raw edges, I haven't been able to justify the time for construction. Yours appears to be very well executed.
    one concern I have is warping of the ply discs. It appears it would require very little 'shape shifting' to create quite a problem in finish turning the bottoms. I was considering one of a variety of plastics instead of wood, but if plywood does not create a problem, it should be simpler to use. Let me know of your experiences.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by David Reed View Post
    I have long admired the elegance of the Longworth chuck and still want to build one, but since most of my forms have irregular raw edges, I haven't been able to justify the time for construction. Yours appears to be very well executed.
    one concern I have is warping of the ply discs. It appears it would require very little 'shape shifting' to create quite a problem in finish turning the bottoms. I was considering one of a variety of plastics instead of wood, but if plywood does not create a problem, it should be simpler to use. Let me know of your experiences.
    I constructed the chuck out of medium density fiberboard with veneer on both faces. The dimensional stability of this material is not a huge concern for me. Plywood would move and warp a bit more, but I don't know if it would be enough to affect the functionality of the chuck. I am sure that HDPE, UHMW, ABS, or another similar plastic materials would be more durable/stable for the long haul. I however did not want to invest much money into building this chuck until I made sure I liked the design.

    Also pertaining to the safety topic, I like to use my tailstock until there is only the remnants of a nub left of the tenon. The holding power of this chuck isn't very substantial, so it is definitely a good idea to engage the tailstock as long as feasible. I can normally get the nub small enough so it will easily shear off with a bench chisle, and can be cleaned up with a little sanding.

    And on the doughnut chuck, while I'm sure it would have substantial holding power, I have been a little uneasy to try one. My worries may be unfounded, but I haven't worked up the confidence to build one and try it out. It just seems like a lot to have spinning at high speeds.



    Kyle VanMeter

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    College Station, Texas
    Posts
    200
    This year at AAW, I bought one of Ron Brown's Best Longworth chucks and have used it many times since. The longworth chuck is a great concept and works for most turnings except those that have an inward taper on the top. I just finished a teapot and had to make a donut chuck, which worked fine. However, since you may have to make a different donut for each different bowl, I reach for the longworth first and use it if possible. +1 for using the tail stock until the very last minute. I made a wooden tapered piece to screw onto my Oneway live center, so I could cut the nub as small as possible without fear of damaging the tool or metal live center - the wood taper has a several cuts on it, so I guess it is working as designed.
    Way south of most everybody...

  8. #8
    I used rubber stoppers, drilled through the center, with washers top and bottom. As you tighten the wing nuts, the stoppers bulge securing the bowl better. Also, wrapping with Saran Wrap or some painter's tape helps keep the bowl seated while turning the bottom without the use of the tail stock.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
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    6,009
    I just cut some longworth plywood pieces out on the cnc for a friend at work. They look cool!! I never thought to make one before. 14" and 16" is what I made for him. Ill post pictures up as soon as he sends them.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Heidrick View Post
    I just cut some longworth plywood pieces out on the cnc for a friend at work. They look cool!! I never thought to make one before. 14" and 16" is what I made for him. Ill post pictures up as soon as he sends them.
    Here are the parts I made for him
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    north, OR
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    1,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mueller View Post
    The longworth chuck is a great concept and works for most turnings except those that have an inward taper on the top.
    I've used mine in expansion mode successfully. You can't tighten it down quite as easily but if you pull on the back of the bolt and turn the nut at the same time it gets pretty good depending on how much inner lip you have. Straight sided objects though are a bit more adventurous....

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Pendleton, KY
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    803
    Kyle,
    Thanks for the post. I've made a few of these and have a recommendation for your next Longworth: consider mounting to a dedicated faceplate. I have used MDF with a faceplate and have still ripped the Longworth away from the faceplate with a bad catch. You seem to be chucking using an expansion, which would concern me.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Wilmette, IL
    Posts
    204
    Mods please advise if the following is out of line.

    I got a pair of longworth disks from Mike Heidrick and they work like a charm. I used a dedicated 3" aluminum faceplate. For bumpers I made a set from some silcon test tube stoppers and made a longer set with a curved profile from cheap wine corks.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Bloomington, IL
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    6,009
    Thank you Terry.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  15. #15
    I've made these on our CNC router at work too. I like mine and haven't experienced significant warping of the plywood. They work well as long as you remember that they're good only for finessing the bottom of a bowl. You shouldn't be turning at high speed or hogging lots of material.
    CarveWright Model C
    Stratos Lathe
    Jet 1014
    Half-a-Brain

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