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Thread: Bad Axe Tenon Saw

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    Probably any sharp saw that fits your hand will suffice so you don't need to spend the money (says the guy who owns a couple of Bad Axe saws). So, why do I like them? They fit my hand very well. You give him your hand measurements so it is more likely to fit your hand.

    I own a few saws. I have a freshly sharpened (by Lie Nielsen) saw that cuts very fast and aggressively. It is much more difficult to start than my Bad Axe saw. If I am not paying attention, it is more prone to jumping up when it binds on start and hitting my finger that is sitting there as a start point. This is all about how the saw is sharpened, and Mark does a very good job of sharpening. Some might prefer it, some might not, but you can also tell Mark how you want it sharpened.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    389
    Quote Originally Posted by Hilton Ralphs View Post
    and I'm guestimating that is will cost about $135. Does anyone have pictures of this? I thought I caught a glimpse of it in one of the Lee Valley videos, it has a curved front?
    Somewhere I think Rob said $119 with a beginning of $99

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Neither here nor there
    Posts
    3,844
    Blog Entries
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    Good day,

    First off, I don't own a Bad Axe Saw, but I have seen the quality and would not hesitate to buy one. I especially like the black oxide options- a nice look if you aren't a purist.

    I recently bought a blade from Ron Bontz, who, I might add, is a contributor here. The experience was beyond flawless. I was expecting months of wait for the blade. It was made in a few days and I had it in my hands in a little over a week, and that is shipped to my tiny remote Caribbean island. The work was flawless and the communication excellent. The next saw purchase likely will be one of his completed tenon or miter saws. What I love about his saws is the style he puts into the blades- curves like a lovely lady.

    It is a lot of money to pay for a saw, but I say pick the saw you use the most, and take the plunge with one good quality new saw and you will see the reason folks pay $275 for a hand saw. Believe me, I never thought I would justify that, but now I do. For me, holding a finely crafted tool as I craft a finely crafted piece of furniture is all part of the joy of woodworking. I have a beautiful hand-made leather mallet that I got on eBay. Every time I use it I appreciate the effort that went into the making of it. I almost feel like the craftsman has a part in every piece I make with it.

    Note: I am not at all knocking tuning up an old rusty Diston, but certainly you would love a good high-end new saw.

    Cheers,

    Malcolm

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Milton, GA
    Posts
    3,213
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks for sharing your experience in buying a hand crafted saw Malcolm. Not all those who make fine tools are that predictable or accommodating. Updating web sites is not something that most people can afford the time or money for on a regular basis, so I am confident that some information particularly for small businesses is old or worse case scenario.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    Posts
    1,076
    I can also attest to the professionalism shown by Ron Bontz. A truly wonderful man who not unlike Mark is willing to accommodate your needs. Interestingly, he adds a bit of fleam to his Rip saws. I have always thought that rip teeth are always filed straight across but Ron maintains that a little bit of fleam helps with the cut.
    "If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    3,697
    Quote Originally Posted by Hilton Ralphs View Post
    I can also attest to the professionalism shown by Ron Bontz. A truly wonderful man who not unlike Mark is willing to accommodate your needs. Interestingly, he adds a bit of fleam to his Rip saws. I have always thought that rip teeth are always filed straight across but Ron maintains that a little bit of fleam helps with the cut.
    Mark does the same thing. So do I sometimes...I just eases/smooths the cut little. I've read at least one well respected saw filer say that "by definition" once you add fleam its no longer a rip saw. Not by my definition. A saw is as a saw does...if a saw with a little fleam rips well, than its a rip saw.
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    345
    I went with Bad Axe because I bought into the idea that a larger tenon saw is better. Easier to feel if it's off-plumb and cuts with fewer strokes. With that in mind, I swung big and bought his 18" Beast tenon, filed rip. It is quite simply a perfect saw and use it for all but my smallest tenons. I have yet to mess a cheek cut with it.

    After making an end table with 6" aprons and struggling with a smaller carcass saw, but got a 14" sash saw filed crosscut. Also awesome. About the only saw I want from him now is a dovetail saw, but I can't decide which one, how much I really need one, etc. If I did, I could probably go down to only three backsaws.

  8. #23
    I have the 12" hybrid and love it. I use it for dovetails and occasionally to crosscut with a bench hook. I always have it handy. Mark was really nice to deal with. I ordered mine while I was deployed and getting in touch with me was difficult.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Julie Moriarty View Post
    I've been cutting tenons with whatever saw would work and it hasn't been fun. I don't own a tenon saw. I read an article that featured a couple of tenon saws and the one that caught my eye was the Bad Axe hybrid-cut. Then I found out they are $275.

    My attitude toward tools is it's okay to spend the money if the tool will make the job easier and more enjoyable, and if it encourages you to use it. Safer comes into the picture too.

    Any opinions on the Bad Axe?
    I bought one from another wood worker earlier this year. It's probably the best tool in my shop, and it had made me a far better woodworker and made me enjoy woodworking far more than I did before. Actually, getting my handsaws in order ahs probably been the single best thing I've done woodworking wise in the last few years. You might also try Ron Bontz, I am ordering a saw through him.

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Kurt Cady View Post
    If cost is the issue don't forget LV has their tenon saw release at the first of Dec.
    I loe LV stuff, but my LV saw pretty much sits unused since I got the Bad Axe.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    Probably any sharp saw that fits your hand will suffice so you don't need to spend the money (says the guy who owns a couple of Bad Axe saws). So, why do I like them? They fit my hand very well. You give him your hand measurements so it is more likely to fit your hand.

    I own a few saws. I have a freshly sharpened (by Lie Nielsen) saw that cuts very fast and aggressively. It is much more difficult to start than my Bad Axe saw. If I am not paying attention, it is more prone to jumping up when it binds on start and hitting my finger that is sitting there as a start point. This is all about how the saw is sharpened, and Mark does a very good job of sharpening. Some might prefer it, some might not, but you can also tell Mark how you want it sharpened.
    Having actually used both Andrews Bad Axe and Lie Nielson saws I can tell you....I like the Bad Axe much better.

  12. #27
    I have multiple Bad Axe saws. Dovetail, small tenon (12"), 16" tenon (Jack) and a 20" miter saw to go with my Stanley 150. All work amazing. Mark is the best to work with. He will make it right for you, no other way is acceptable to him. The saws cut great, so smooth and easy. You still have to use proper technique, but if you have problems then it's not the saw's fault....LOL.

    And they are sooo damn pretty! If you decide to sell later, you will recoup most of your investment, so the "rental" is not that bad.

  13. #28
    Julie -- as a new member here and one that has just caught the hand tool bug i have been reading everything I can find from multiple sources (mostly Internet) and I have not come across one negative comment. I only wish they were closer so i could visit. I will be buying my saws from them in the near future. After you purchase it you'll soon be wondering "how the hell did i manage with out it". There's just something about using a fine tune tool.
    I know enough to know, I don't know anything.....

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Punta Gorda, FL
    Posts
    3,028
    You guys got into my head. Just how important do you think handle size is? Handle size never even dawned on my before seeing it mentioned. According to Mark from Bad Axe, I need a small handle. But how much of a difference will it really make?

  15. #30
    In the past, the standard size was all you had to choose from. If you had a standard hand, then great. But too big or too small and it will not fit right. I play tennis. If you try to swing a racket with too big of a grip, your hand will slip and you will not be accurate. Same with a saw to some extent. If the handle fits properly, the saw will feel like an extension of your hand. Get the handle size he recommends. When the handle fits right, the saw goes where you aim. Same in all sports that use a handle: baseball, tennis, golf, etc. Sorry, I am a sports guy....

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