question on butcher block type dining table

[rusty hill]

My wife is wanting a dining room table approx. 66" x 40". She doesn't want a true end grain buther block but long thin boards glued together. I was thinking of ripping boards 1 1/2" wide and glueing together face to face so that the table will be 1 1/2" thick with the top of the table consisting of the board edges. I was thinking of using mostly maple and some of the following: walnut, cherry, ash, white oak, hickory or mahogany. My question is which of these would move best with the maple? Or should I abandon the idea and try something else? Thanks

[David C. Roseman]

Sounds like a great idea, Rusty. Intermixing light and dark woods would be stunning. I've done that with numerous cutting boards and bread boards to good effect. You probably know that there are reference charts available to show relative movement of different species. Here's one: http://workshoppages.com/WS/Articles...ent-Charts.pdf

You'd be safest picking woods with similar expansion/shrinkage characteristics. But since you're only talking about a distance of 1-1/2" across the face of the glued surfaces, even assuming all is flat-sawn, it's probably not that critical. Ordinarily, I look to compare Tangential/Radial shrinkage ratios. But that's more to avoid cupping tendencies when edge gluing flat-sawn stock. I doubt cupping could occur the way you'll be gluing up.

David

[rusty hill]

Thanks for the chart and advice David, I was trying to find online yesterday and was having trouble.

[Peter Quinn]

On a mechanical level I'm not sure it matters much over the thickness involved. You may find the softer woods like cherry and mahogany take dings more readily so the surface patinas a bit unevenly. Maple won't scratch or ding as easily, may contrast? On a strictly aesthetic level I've never cared for the candy stripped or geometric mix and match look, not in cutting boards and certainly not over the scale of a medium sized table top. I do like a tasteful accent to break up the monatiny of an edge grain butcher block, make it look less institutional. I'm quite fond of a field of walnut with either cherry or white oak strips, or possibly white oak accents flanked by cherry pin stripes. I'm struggling with a similar decision presently. I have a large pile of 2" wide walnut cutoffs from a job I did, I need a new kitchenette table, I don't want it to look like a $49 table from Walmart. I've been scouring the web for images and ideas, kind of moving towards 8" sections with 1/2" accents between, possibly white oak center flanked by maple pinstripes? Might make a small test case....cutting board size.

[John TenEyck]

Rusty, I think you mean an edge grained table top. The tangential/radial expansion/contraction values for hard maple are 9.9/4.8%, respectively. For black walnut they are 7.8/5.5, and for white ash 7.8/4.0. In comparison, mahogany is 5.1/3.7. Any of them could be paired together and you wouldn't have a problem with cracking over such a short distance as 1.5". However, what you may feel the glue lines during the year due to the differential expansion/contraction of the different species, especially if you put mahogany with maple. I notice it even with one species, just from gluing a face sawn board edge to edge with a rift sawn one. It's subtle and isn't a show stopper, but it's there.

John

[Mike Wilkins]

Are you a member of Sams Club. I have seen work/kitchen stands there that were approx. 30" x 60" that would make a great dining table top. Might not be maple, but you can't beat the price. My neighbor purchased one to use in his workroom/shop. The base is too high for someone shorter than 6'5" tall, but you don't need the base anyway. May be a less expensive alternative.

[hank dekeyser]

Another factor is "how dry" is the material and how was it dried ? air vs. kiln dried makes a difference. Also make sure it's not "too smooth" or glue doesn't "grab" as good. I had a local shop runn my stuff though their sander when I did my 48 x 96 birch (pronounced= cheaper than Maple) island, literally I built it in the kitchen. Glued up a few strips at a time trim nailed to hold positioning then clamped- repeat - repeat - repeat, etc. Makita power plane, followed by belt sander and orbital - (yes I connected a vacuum to them, I'm not suicidal) Bought some off the shelf mineral oil from Target - cost effective and readily available - Only problem we encounter w/ the oil is don't put magazines, mail, etc on the surface, cuz they end up "oiled" - I can't vouch for any of the bowl oils or whatever else is out there - I like it cuz it helps us to keep the island clutter free

[rusty hill]

Thanks to all of you for your help. You gave me a lot of good ideas and I feel comfortable starting on it tomorrow.