Calling ALL engineers (shade-tree included)

[Brett Bobo]

Hi Dennis,
No worries, I'm having a hard time following your intended plan as I previously thought you were modifying the entire roof (both the shop and carport) based on the drawing you provided. I'm not sure what happens with the left side of the roof but I'll focus on the right side only. A revised sketch would be very helpful.

Why don't you just install rafters that are designed to clear span to the middle of the shop, i.e. the 22' length? This would eliminate your other framing concerns.
I'll hold off on further comments as maybe this will solve the issue. If not, we'll re-group and go again.

[Dennis McCullen]

Hi Dennis,
No worries, I'm having a hard time following your intended plan as I previously thought you were modifying the entire roof (both the shop and carport) based on the drawing you provided. I'm not sure what happens with the left side of the roof but I'll focus on the right side only. A revised sketch would be very helpful.

Why don't you just install rafters that are designed to clear span to the middle of the shop, i.e. the 22' length? This would eliminate your other framing concerns.
I'll hold off on further comments as maybe this will solve the issue. If not, we'll re-group and go again.

THe full length rafters is a great idea but I usually work alone (Bayou Self Construction Co.) and I believe a clearspan for 22 ft would involve engineered roof trusses. The weight is one factor then there's the bottom chord at 8-9 ft, then there's the idea of me putting some windows in the top of the tall wall to glean some light from the carport side's clerestory windows and lastly, I want to put in an exhaust duct in the tallest part of the room just beneath the rafters to remove heat and filter the air of the saw dust I hope to create. Just completely ignore the left side (tall side) on the drawing; it's a carport and will be built separately. Picture the right side with a simple shed roof and the inside not having a ceiling, just rafters that run from 8 ft on the right to 11'8" on the left. The beam in the middle of the rise lowers the clearance some 14" because the rafters sit on top of it rather than run into rafter hangers on the sides of it. That still leaves 8'8" clearance under the beam. The left side rafters then rise from 9'10" to 11'8". I'm hoping this help to move heat away from man and material down at shop level. I'll put another sketch up in a bit after I've had a chance to wake up and get stirring.

[Brett Bobo]

Even at a 22' span, you can still use dimensional lumber if sized accordingly, i.e. 2x12s. Typically, the maximum, readily available lengths of dimensional lumber are 24', keeping in mind the actual length based on a shallow pitch of 2/12. Also, keep in mind that there are other engineered material options, still stick framed, for longer spans of roof systems, without compromising on ceiling height. In other words, there is no need for trusses in this situation, other than preference.

Considering you're a one man wrecking crew, I'd try to avoid the beam concept (and associated bracing, columns, base plates, etc) all together as you'll need either equipment or several helpers for the installation. I think you'll still need a helper, regardless, even from a safety standpoint. Also, I still don't know what the existing framing is at the center of the building (or how much of the building is new vs. existing) but at least for the shop space side, you can maximize your spacing without interruptions from framing in the floor space or directly above.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

All, sorry I haven't gotten better pics up yet, they are on the list though. I went in for "routine outpatient" surgery last Tuesday, and just got home. As soon as I can use the scaffolding without the little wife freaking out, I'll get them posted.

[Dennis McCullen]

All, sorry I haven't gotten better pics up yet, they are on the list though. I went in for "routine outpatient" surgery last Tuesday, and just got home. As soon as I can use the scaffolding without the little wife freaking out, I'll get them posted.

For a speedy recovery and don't do anything you wouldn't do if she were watching!

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Hey, I got to the woodshop without feeling like I was going to pass out finally!

Dennis, I think Brett has given you better advice than I can. I'm just a complete shadetree hack, so I overbuild, and do it in a more complicated way than the pros. I see you were worried about horsing the lumber around yourself if you free spanned the roof. I did with the rafters on the top roof, they are 22' 2x12's, and I did it myself. In fact, my little wife and myself have done everything from demo to where it is today. You can horse the 22' 2x12's around, but it requires a plan. You work alone, its no more complicated than the other stuff you have to plan for, just more airbourne.

As you can see in the pics, I couldn't retrofit a beam into the old house, so I have to use cross ties. A beam would make the roof a lot cleaner, but not an option in my situation. Where you can use a beam, I would. I'd also use full span rafters for sure.

You can also see something I'd change on my pony wall. I framed it for structural, without thinking the window finishing all the way through. I have to trim a spacer block now, and furr out the windows so the wood siding that will be the finished surface inside will come out right. Could have planned that better. FYI, the windows are all flange mount, and the building has 1 1/2" of sheeting minimum. More framing goofyness, the temp double doors visible in the second photo are just part of the old structure I hinged in place so I could get a table saw into the building using the forklift. I will build doors for them after I move in. They are 9' tall and 6' wide, for scale.