I want suggestion for full kerf blades for SawStop 3HP

[Jacob Reverb]

But...shoulders which Sawstop recommends against.

I've got several of the Freuds...never noticed any "shoulder." The plate looks flat to me from rim to rim, IIRC. But I don't use a SawStop.

[Matt Meiser]

I've got several of the Freuds...never noticed any "shoulder." The plate looks flat to me from rim to rim, IIRC. But I don't use a SawStop.

This is the shoulder they don't want. It can keep the blade from digging into the brake should it fire.
12-3-2013 4-28-05 PM.jpg

[Jacob Reverb]

This is the shoulder they don't want. It can keep the blade from digging into the brake should it fire.
12-3-2013 4-28-05 PM.jpg

Ah, now I gotcha. Thanks for the explanation. I always just thought of those things as "kickback preventers" for lack of a better term.

I guess if I ever get a SawStop, I'm gonna have to replace all those Freuds...grrr.

[Matt Kestenbaum]

I have found that using a single brand of blades (in my case Amana) saves some time when swapping out blades. The diameter of a 10" blade seems vary a bit from brand to brand and when you change from saw a WWII 40t combo to a Freud 20t rip there can be a surprising amount of adjustment made to the blade brake gap. I find that by staying within the same blade/brand family I usually only have to a tweak the break gap 1/2 turn or so. Of course as I use and, more importantly, sharpen my combos more than my other more specialized blades the diameter will move a little farther apart.

[Clay Fails]

Yes, I do want to run dados and I have a 8" Oshlun dado set.

I have two Forrest thin kerf blades carryover from old cabinet saw, and i dont like them on my ICS. I do like Infinity's rip blade, Ridge Carbide's blade and Freud.

[glenn bradley]

I have the same saw and use both thin kerf and full kerf blades. You can use either on the saw. If you have thin kerf blades that are working for you, I would continue to use them until you need blades or have extra money to buy blades.

Just wondering Frank, did you get another riving knife and thin it down or do you just forgo the RK with the TK blades? I have quite a collection of TK blades but, they are all thinner or so close to the RK on my PCS that I find them problematic. I have considered getting another RK and grinding it down a bit.

All good suggestions so far. No single brand has impressed me more than Infinity. They have a top shelf 3 blade set that has a 24T ripper, 50T combo, 80T ply/fine crosscut blade for $180.

That is a great price. SS has info on the depth limiters on their website . . . :

" Further, blades with depth-limiting shoulders may take longer to stop in the event of an accident than standard blades, and you could receive a more serious injury. Therefore, SawStop recommends using blades without depth-limiting shoulders."

. . . so you may want to take that into consideration. They don't say specifically not to use them, just that they may cause the safety system to perform a bit sub-optimally.

[Mike Nguyen]

Everyone has a favorite. I have the 3HP PCS and run Carbide Processors (run by our own Tom Walz) blades made by Snook's saw out of Oregon. I have a 24T rip, a 50T combo, a 50T custom geometry for a special use of mine, a 60T crosscut and an 80T crosscut. I have run a variety including Leitz, Freud, Forrest, Amana, etc. and am quite pleased with the Carbide Processor cutters and they have top notch customer service. I just had some sharpening done too; excellent work and this ain't my first rodeo. Speaking of sharpening, do the math. $120 for a blade, $20 to sharpen it = 2 blades @ $70 per blade. Sharpen it again and you've had 3 blades for about $54 each. The better blades that take well to sharpening become awfully reasonably priced over their usable life. Think cost, not price.

Hi Glenn,
I read a lot of your posts through out the year here and over Family Woodworking forum and really enjoy them. I have second thought about the Carbide Processors blades and leaning toward these blades. I originally ruled them out because they are thicker than 1/8" but that may be a good thing but I have concern about the riving knife and the splitter that came with the SawStop. Do I need to have different riving knife if I go to these Carbide Processors blades? Most of the blades that I have right now are thin blade except one Irwin that I bought from Rockler long time ago and it's full kerf or at least it's bigger than my other thin kerf. I am not sure if this Irwin blade is exactly 1/8". Before today, I thought that there are only 2 blade kerf, thin and full .
Mike

[glenn bradley]

Hi Glenn,
I read a lot of your posts through out the year here and over Family Woodworking forum and really enjoy them. I have second thought about the Carbide Processors blades and leaning toward these blades. I originally ruled them out because they are thicker than 1/8" but that may be a good thing but I have concern about the riving knife and the splitter that came with the SawStop. Do I need to have different riving knife if I go to these Carbide Processors blades? Most of the blades that I have right now are thin blade except one Irwin that I bought from Rockler long time ago and it's full kerf or at least it's bigger than my other thin kerf. I am not sure if this Irwin blade is exactly 1/8". Before today, I thought that there are only 2 blade kerf, thin and full .
Mike

Funny you should mention that. I have mine all done to an 1/8" kerf with the exception of the RIP blade (because I just forgot to ask). This means they all fit the same ZCI and jigs within a very small deviation amount. I do not recall there being an extra charge for this. I believe many of their blades (maybe all?) are made to order. They are great people to deal with so you could just call them and talk to Whitney. She has handled most of my orders.

[Bruce Wrenn]

For $96.00, you could get FOUR Delta 35-7657's ( plus some change) from Cripe Distributing's E Bay store. Most likely you would never have to have another blade sharpened in your lifetime.