Conventional Table Saw v Sliding Table Saw

[Steve Mellott]

I am a hobbyist woodworker and have decided to buy a new table saw. I was leaning toward a Sawstop model, but have learned I can buy a used MiniMax SC3 (in great condition) for less money. While I saw an occasional panel, I primarily use the table saw to rip boards. I can fit the SC3 footprint into my shop, but am not sure if I want to deal with 2 motors and 2 blades. I'd also like to continue using my Incra fence which may or may not fit on the SC3. I think the SC3 may be a superior saw at a better price, but am wondering if the SC3 sliding table saw may be too much of a saw for someone like myself. Any advice or me? Thanks.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Steve, there have been some tremendously informative and useful threads pertaining to this subject in the past. If you want, a search will find.

I started with a Delta contractor saw, went to a Jet cabinet saw, then took the plunge and bought a Felder. I now also have a unisaw that I use as a worksite saw. That being said, I am a hobby guy, and have never regretted the slider. You have to want to commit to a different way to saw though to get the full benefit of such a tool. Some relesh that, and will see massive benefits, some don't want to learn new techniques, and will not like a slider.

First question, which are you?

[Loren Woirhaye]

You don't have to use the scoring arbor. You may find you have use for it as your needs grow, but for general work, I think you'll find a quality main blade on its own works pretty well. It's true that most of us mostly rip with the table saw. A slider however is a precision cross-cutting tool as well and can do an especially good job on cabinet sides and glued up panels. You also get stops on both sides of the blade (the fence, slid back, to the right) and it can be a useful way to cut strips or blocks without them flying around the shop as can happen with a miter saw.

[John McClanahan]

When I was table saw shopping, I was temped by a couple of older sliders. Then I discovered the arbor is too short to use a dado stack on them. I now own a Powermatic 66.

John

[Al Bacon]

When I was table saw shopping, I was temped by a couple of older sliders. Then I discovered the arbor is too short to use a dado stack on them. I now own a Powermatic 66.

John

Thats not true of all of all sliders. I own a Grizzly G0700 small slider which does everything I have asked including mounting a full dado stack. As Steve says, you do have to learn some new ways of doing some things but all in all I believe it is
a very good saw and for my small small shop it is a perfect fit.

Al

[Bill Neely]

My Laguna TSS takes a full dado stack too. I don't have any problem ripping with it either. Best of all possible worlds with the exception of a high end vertical panel saw (~Striebig) AND a good table saw.

[Loren Woirhaye]

Considering the range of joinery options available today, I don't understand the fascination with dado capability. My slider takes a dado and I seldom use it. You can define both sides of a dado on a slider without taking the time to switch blades by the crosscut fence and stop on the left and using the rip fence slid back to stop the work on the right side.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I agree with Loren, the dado thing is overblown. There are other ways to do it. Also, its a bit of misinformation that sliders and dados are incompatible on a grand scale. I think most have the longer arbor. BTW, the slider and the Sawstop are apples and oranges, that slider is in a whole new league than and cabinet saw.

[David Kumm]

Ripping on sliders is very different to using a traditional saw so you need to commit to learning a different way. You want a crosscut fence that removes easily and resets at exactly 90 degrees if you are ripping against the fence or ripping a board longer than the sliding table. As for the dado, newer saws are equipped for it but changing back and forth takes some effort too. Older cast iron short stroke sliders and tables that cranked out and were the easiest to use with the dado as the reference with the rip fence and with the crosscut fence remained intact. Newer sliders have a flange that removes to allow the blades to be set back into the fixed side of the table. That means both fences need to be reset. no big deal but not something you want to go back and forth with. I've got sliders from 18" to 10' as well as traditional and use them all. Still like to rip wider boards off the rip but that isn't as easy with a long slider. Ripping off the sliding table with a parallel stop works better with a long stroke. My most versatile is a short stroke Whitney modified to crosscut 36" but looks like a traditional. I'm surprised more short stroke saws with crank out tables aren't made anymore. Dave

[johnny means]

The Incra fence really would not be compatible, as a slider fence needs to be able slide to the front of the table ahead off the blade.

[Paul Vincent]

Get the cabinet saw and then hose down the floor and turn off the heat so it ices up. Then you’ll have a sliding-cabinet saw!

[Dominic Carpenter]

My two cents. I've owned a Hammer K3W no for 2 yrs. I agree with what has been said here regarding the scoring blade and dado. Have both, but I don't use either often per previous comments. That said, I continue to be thrilled with this machine. As mentioned, the approach is different , but once you learn the techniques you will catch yourself thinking "WOW!" that is much easier and more accurate without having to make sleds and jigs. You will also appreciate the capacity improvements and the 12" blade. Absolutely no regrets!

[Jim Andrew]

Have not considered a slider for myself, but reading this thread makes me think maybe I should be interested. Looked at the Hammer Christmas price list and it doesn't seem really out of line, of course I know nothing about these saws, the 31x31 and the 31x48 look similar to American table saws, with a sliding table attachment. Is the 31x48 the capacity of the saw? Similar to the wide table on my unisaw with the ability to rip 48"? And the slider 31"?

[Mike Wilkins]

Like others here, I took a progressive path towards a sliding tablesaw. Started with an el-cheapo benchtop machine with a scary rip fence; a mid-40's Milwaukee with a small top; Sears Craftsman contractor type saw; mid-60's Rockwell/Delta Unisaw (wish I still had); finally a Laguna Pro 6' sliding saw with scoring. Takes some adjustment to using a slider, but when you consider you can do anything on it that you can accomplish with a standard cabinet-style machine, and more, the advantages stand out. I rarely use the scoring, but its there if needed. I can use 10 or 12 inch blades. Has dado capacity, but I never use this feature since routers, straight bits and a good edge guide is a better option. But crosscutting with a measured stop on the miter fence makes flawless cuts all day long. My shop size dictated a short stroke machine (16 X 24), but if the lottery-gods ever smile on me, a slider capable of ripping a 8 foot sheets will be in the works. In the end you will not regret the purchase of a slider. And lots of folks with these type machines have retro-fitted a nicer rip fence on their machines, although newer ones have been improved. Good luck and watch those fingers.

[Erik Loza]

Steve, I cannot tell you whether or not you should buy that SC3W but will tell you that it probably has only one motor, for the main blade. The scoring blade on those is typically slaved off the main arbor via a flat belt setup. It ought to be independently adjustable, so you can lower it completely below the deck when not needed. Hope this helps.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA