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Thread: From logs to flooring

  1. #1

    From logs to flooring

    For the past year and a half I have been prepping my land to build my dream home on it. During that process I have cut down around 175 trees, almost exclusively red oak. I saved every log that seemed decent. Then I scored an entire black walnut tree on craigslist. That will be used for inlays and cabinets.

    In 5 very long days Dennis from terrific timbers in CT came out with his woodmizer sawmill. We made almost exclusively 1.125-1.25 boards with some beams and 8/4 mixed in. After air drying the first batch of wood for almost a year it was ready for the next step...



    I trailered ~1600 square feet of boards from the land to our house. (Yes square feet not board feet) I then cut the boards to 6.5 feet and restacked and snickered them inside my 12 foot cargo trailer in my driveway where it would get lots of sun. We placed a heater, and dehumidifier in the v nose of the trailer and had 5 household fans running in the trailer to ensure good air circulation. Over the next 25 days I removed around 80 gallons more of water and brought the wood from 12 percent moisture content to 4 percent moisture. I then gave the wood another week in the trailer to ensure it was evenly dried.

    Once the wood was dry and ready the fun started. I have a one car garage that has enough tools in it to fill a small cabinet shop and a small automotive garage. After storing tools that I didn't need anywhere and everywhere I broke out the band saw and ripped the boards to width. In order to get the best yield from the wood I'm making 3 widths oak and 2 black walnut. Finished flooring was to be 1.75 and 2.25 black walnut and 2.25 3.25 and 4 inch oak. I ripped the boards to .75 over each of those. The band saw worked great for this as it was not affected by the warping, cupping and varied thickness of the boards. I unloaded the entire load of boards into the garage. Fitting 1600 square feet of wood into a one car garage was pretty tight.

    After ripping the boards I put the power feeder onto my jointer and face jointed them, this was my first indication of how much sawdust / chips is was going to make during this process.

    Next was planing I had to take the boards to under .82 for my flooring shaper cutters. The first pass was very difficult as there was a pretty significant difference in the thickness of the boards. I was also using an old 3 hp planer that was not a great quality machine, but I had gotten it cheep and it was great for every project I had up to this point. Well during the second pass through the planer I'm not really sure how but the chip breaker went into the cutterhead and the entire planer exploded. It was violent enough that it cracked the cast iron chassis of the planer and left a piece of chipbreaker imbedded in the Sheetrock on the wall. Luckily I was not hurt but obviously the planer was toast.

    After weighing my options and researching I found a grizzly g0454 planer on Long Island. 2 ferry rides later I was home with my new to me planer. A quick tuneup and I was able to finish the second pass and get all the wood through a third time.

    After planing it was back to the jointer this time was edge jointing one edge. This went very fast with the power feeder.

    Finally I had a pile of wood that was starting to look really nice. I moved the power feeder to the shaper, set up an outboard fence and started putting on the grooves. I ran the jointed edge against the fence and the rough edge through the cutter. This eliminated the need to re-rip the boards and made them all uniform.

    Once all the grooves were on I switched over and started the tongues, this was clearly the fastest part of the process as the boards were all straight and true for the first time. I'm currently half way done with the tongues and will finish them over the weekend.

    The last step will be end matching, I know there are people who say this is not necessary however I feel it is very important and with the amount of work already into this project why would I not do it.

    I read a lot on this forum and other sites before starting this project. It seemed like the consensus was that it is not worth doing. I understand that view, if you are doing this for money saving purposes it is not worth doing. However it was never my intention to save money, I did this as one step in building my house. When you come into our house the floors, stairs, trim will all be from our land, and the cabinets will be from a tree locally that was hundreds of years old.

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Shenandoah Valley in Virginia
    Posts
    921
    Agree with you... You & your kids will know where it is from and that is what counts...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    420
    I did much the same thing a few years ago, although I started with air-dried 5/4 rough oak. It was a lot of work (fun!) cutting the pieces to length, jointing them on my 36" Craftsman jointer, planing to thickness, ripping to width then running them through my little router table to put a tongue and groove on them. Very satisfying to be able to get pieces the width I wanted and do the entire job myself!

  5. #5

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,771
    Great stuff Steve. My hats off to you for taking on that project, among all the others it takes to build a house. Looking forward to future installments.

    John

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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Lakeland Florida
    Posts
    2,297
    What model is your powerfeeder? Has it worked well for you (it looks like it is doing a perfect job), and if you were to buy a new one, would you choose the same one or a different model? I don't mean to lead the thread on a tangent, but I am in need of a reasonable powerfeeder to do some similar work. (by the way, that's a nice stack of lumber) I myself just hauled back a 4' diameter Laurel Oak trunk! Something special about taking it from start to finish that exceeds the sweat, blood and tears involved. Lets face it, none of us are in this business/hobby to "save" money.
    “I am enough of an artist to draw freely upon my imagination. Imagination is more important than knowledge. Knowledge is limited. Imagination encircles the world.” ~ Albert Einstein

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Markham View Post
    What model is your powerfeeder? Has it worked well for you (it looks like it is doing a perfect job), and if you were to buy a new one, would you choose the same one or a different model? I don't mean to lead the thread on a tangent, but I am in need of a reasonable powerfeeder to do some similar work. (by the way, that's a nice stack of lumber) I myself just hauled back a 4' diameter Laurel Oak trunk! Something special about taking it from start to finish that exceeds the sweat, blood and tears involved. Lets face it, none of us are in this business/hobby to "save" money.
    I have 2 power feeders, both grizzly 3 wheel models. I have the 1/4 hp and the 1 hp ones. They both work really well, however if I were going to only own 1 I agree with what seems to be the consensus bigger is better. The 1/4 hp is only used on my band saw and table saw. The 1 hp is used for everything else. The larger wheels grip better and the larger feeder has more travel in the wheels allowing it to conform to varying wood thicknesses. I am looking for another power feeder so I don't have to move them and it will be a 1 hp. Hope that helps

    Steve

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    12
    Steve,
    Would you mind showing how you have the powerfeeder mounted to your jointer. I to have the 1/4 Grizzly powerfeeder that is mounted to my shaper and would like to use it on my 8" Grizzly jointer as well to joint my material like you did above.

    Thanks,
    Colin

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    I live in NH
    Posts
    104
    well i hear where you are coming from for sure with the McMantion fad of late for sure. I wonder how well a jointer with a power feed works to straighten bords?
    the way jointers differ from a planer really is only in the fact that next to no pressure is applied to the wood in the down direction. This is so you DONT take the bend out of the board before it hits the jointer blades in this way the tool takes the hi spots off the board leaving you with a board that sits flat with no pressure.

    kudos to ur awesome project you will leave it behind for a long time and thts worth a LOT!

  14. #14
    On a smaller scale, I just purchased a Pink Ivory log. It has been drying for over 10 years. I plan to saw it into 8/4 material. This will be the first time I have sawed a log up and I am nervious about it as the log was expensive and this is my first time doing anything like this

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Helms View Post
    Steve,
    Would you mind showing how you have the powerfeeder mounted to your jointer. I to have the 1/4 Grizzly powerfeeder that is mounted to my shaper and would like to use it on my 8" Grizzly jointer as well to joint my material like you did above.

    Thanks,
    Colin
    I went back through my photos and I don't have any pics of what I did and I can't get to my jointer right now, the joys of working in a small space... I will take a couple pics as soon as I can get to it.

    All I did was take some 3/8 plate and make a large 90 degree bracket that I bolted to the jointer stand. I added a diagonal brace to stiffen it after I first put the feeder on it. I also welded studs so that the feeder base just drops onto them which is not needed but it is nice if you are being lazy like I usually do and carry the whole thing over and drop it on. Location of the bracket is critical as it takes every inch of the stand when I am edge jointing.

    Hope my description helps hopefully I can get some pics in the next couple days.

    Steve

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