Yet another leg vise options question

[Jim Matthews]

I have the LV German vise screw set up with a lower guide.

I installed a ramp, much like the one shown in this video.
Instead of using a pin, or wedging system as demonstrated,
I use a series of plywood spacers, an idea borrowed from Paul Miller's wedge designed vises.

The advantage of the rollers is only maintained if the rollers are spring loaded.
My pin board expanded so much in Summer that the vise was stuck.

I like the ramp design shown in the video, as it keeps the chop slightly canted.
I used a strip of HDPE on the ramp, so no wheels are needed.

There's a tendency to make these things capable of clamping large boards, more than 4" wide.

I optimized mine to handle things under 2" thick - the size of things I normally handle.

The real advantage of these is in manipulating thin stock, which I more often use.

[Steve Voigt]

The advantage of the rollers is only maintained if the rollers are spring loaded.
My pin board expanded so much in Summer that the vise was stuck.

Jim, that's a pretty broad assertion. I understand that you had a bad experience, but I don't think that experience is typical. The parallel guide is only 3 or 4 inches wide. With quartersawn stock in a relatively stable environment, problems with movement should be negligible. And if you live where the changes in humidity are extreme, the problem can be circumvented entirely by using Baltic birch or similar ply for the guide.

[Jim Matthews]

I hardly see how a description of mechanics is a broad assertion.

Like many hack amateurs, I have exactly zero tolerance for
fiddly tools that detract from my shop time.

There's a reason that Benchcrafted migrated to the St. Peter's cross design - it always works.

[Paul Saffold]

Jim,
I've had my bench about 20 months. After the initial setup for my rollers, I have not had to adjust them. They are not spring loaded. I have not had any problems with them binding or becoming loose. Using quarter sawn wood may have helped.
Paul

[Tim Null]

I have three benches with multiple vises.
Nicholson with a Veritas Twin Screw as an end vise and a traditional metal front vise.
Roubo with a Lake Erie wood screw leg vise with Benchcrafted rollers and a metal vise on the end.
Carvers bench with a Veritas inset vise and a moxon with homemade wood screws attached to on end of the bench.

All three work great. They each have pros and cons though. Since the question is leg vise, the Lake Erie screw works perfectly. It takes a bit of fussing to get the rollers to work properly, but you need a pair. That way they balance the guide and let the vise move smoothly.

But what is it you really want from a vise? To hold your work securely with as little fuss as possible. In my leg vise, I open it, set the pin (most times I do not need to readjust it), set the piece in and twist the handle. That's it. Leather liners on the jaws and there is no slippage. Period. Every vise has its' advantages and weaknesses. My leg vise with the Lake Erie screw and Benchcrafted rollers is a great vise with few disadvantages in my opinion. Absent spending the big bucks for the criss cross, this version gives 90% of the performance for a lot less money.

I am able to use each of my vises as I need, so I don't really have to compromise. But I find myself gravitating to the leg vise more often than not. Go, build the vise and use it in good health!

[Marko Milisavljevic]

Thanks to everyone for giving me some food for thought. I ordered Lake Erie Toolworks leg vise screw/nut and I'll use the rollers I have.