Fence not square to the table

[Chris Kennedy]

I need some help. After having trouble getting some boards to align properly for a glue-up, I discovered that my TS fence (a Biesemeyer on a zip code saw) is not square to the table. It is parallel to the miter slot and blade, but if I set a square between the table and fence, I can see significant daylight on one side of the fence (the other side is fine). Unfortunately, it is on the side that I mostly use.

I can't see any way to adjust this. Any suggestions?


Chris

[John Downey]

If you are ripping it shouldn't matter, width might be off a hair but nothing more. If you are using the fence as a register for some kind of plumb cut, then it will matter.

One option is to lift one side of the fence by adding a shim under the appropriate side of the angle iron that locks it to the rail. Quick but less than ideal because the fence itself could flex some where it is not resting on the table.

Another option is to add a sacrificial strip on the side you want to shim, same size as the one that is there from the factory, and add shims between the two. Not sure you could re-set your scale reading by that much, but it would get you a plumb fence face.

Similarly, you could shim the factory face, between whatever it is and the tube steel of the fence - if you can figure out how to loosen it. I don't remember it being obvious on a Biesmeyer, but then I haven't looked closely at one in 15 years or more.

[Richard Coers]

Biesemeyer always had two nylon set screws on the angle iron that clamps to the steel beam. Turn one of them to adjust for square. If you don't have that, either shim the wood layer on the fence or change the mounting of the angle iron bolted to the saw that carries the beam.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Your fence is parallel to the blade and miter slot, but not square (perpendicular) to the table? I agree with both the above, it should not matter, and it should be adjustable.

I have to ask the obvious. Did you check if the blade is 90.0 degrees?

[Chris Kennedy]

It not being square does make a difference -- that was how I found it. I was gluing up two long boards and I could not get the boards to fit flush. They would be okay in spots and then gaps in others. My guess is that as I shifted my hands during the cut, the edge of the board tilted against the fence and gave a bevel in spots. Once I ripped it on the other side of the fence, everything went together fine. Unfortunately using the other side of the fence is not a long term solution.

Probably for shorter and thinner stock, it won't make a difference, but it is frustrating.

Basically, I am getting point contact at the base of the fence. And I agree -- it should be adjustable, but I can find no way to do so. The set screws adjust the wrong axis.

Chris

[Jerry Miner]

The set screws adjust the wrong axis.

Look again at the angle-iron that rides on the rail. He's not talking about the set screws on the rear face of that angle iron (which adjust for square to blade), but the nylon set screws on the top surface.

The faces of Biesemeyer fences (at least all that I have seen) are attached to the fence with machine screws before the plastic laminate is applied, so the attachment screws are buried and not accessible for adjustment. One option is to remove the laminate and/or remove the facing and replace or adjust (by shimming or shaving).

[Chris Kennedy]

Look again at the angle-iron that rides on the rail. He's not talking about the set screws on the rear face of that angle iron (which adjust for square to blade), but the nylon set screws on the top surface.

I went and double-checked -- at least on mine, there aren't set screws on the top. There are lugs on the nylon pads that mate with holes in the top of the angle iron, but they aren't screws and don't seem to have any adjustment capability.

Chris

[Jerry Miner]

OK. Sorry if I sent you on a wild goose chase. Either there was a design change, or my memory failed (either is equally likely).

In theory, I guess, you could shim the pad with something slippery, but if it were me, I'd attack the facing---especially since you say one side is good now. You might be able to carefully dig out the screw heads---they can often be felt by hand---almost certainly found with a magnet---and loosen enough to shim. You may have to/want to drill some access holes in the bottom of the fence to access the nuts inside the tube.

[George Bokros]

OK. Sorry if I sent you on a wild goose chase. Either there was a design change, or my memory failed (either is equally likely).

In theory, I guess, you could shim the pad with something slippery, but if it were me, I'd attack the facing---especially since you say one side is good now. You might be able to carefully dig out the screw heads---they can often be felt by hand---almost certainly found with a magnet---and loosen enough to shim. You may have to/want to drill some access holes in the bottom of the fence to access the nuts inside the tube.

I checked my Bies Home Shop Fence and it is not perpendicular by a few thousandths to the table. I do not have any issues with joints not meeting for glue up and when I check ripped stock the edge is square to the face. Looking into the fence from the open end there are multiple screws which do not have nuts on the inside. The laminate on the fence face is too thick to feel the where the screws are located and I doubt a magnet would locate them anyway. There is no adjustment to square the fence to the table only adjustments to square the fence to the miter slot.

George

[Chris Parks]

I would suggest that if the glue faces are not square to each other then the blade is not perpendicular to the table. You did not specify what is not lining up so I am only guessing.

[Cary Falk]

If you don't have the nylon screws on the top of the fence the only to adjust the fence is to loosen all the bolts in the fence except the one on the end and lift or push down till the fence is square.

[glenn bradley]

The Bies on the 22124 is squared to the table by adjusting the front tube unless the fence face is fouled. Position the fence so that it sets physically on the saw table (disengaged from the front rail). Check the fence fave to table for 90*. If this is OK, adjust the tube to a dive this table to fence relationship when riding on the tube. Alternate method is to replace the fence face and shim to 90*. Either method only works if the front tube to tabletop relationship is consistent so, I would just adjust the tube alone if that will do the trick.

[Bobby O'Neal]

Gentlemen, it's an obvious problem and an even more obvious solution.

The fence is haunted.

You need a new 3HP cabinet saw. It should come with an awesome fence.

All the best.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Use some laquar thinner to remove plastic. Check backer board, loosen screws and shim where necessary. Remember that if you add something to square to table surface, you will also have to shim length wise. Use fresh contact cement and replace face, or just make a replacement face from 1/2" BB.

[Dick Brown]

If I understand the post, the right side face of the fence is perpendicular to the table but the left is not. If that is the case, shifting the rails or shimming under the front angle will just trade one problem for another. Number one thing to do is set your rails so they are exactly parallel to the table top and the gap is the same from the fence faces to the table anywhere you set the fence. I have my clearance about 1/16" end to end of the fence and anywhere I put it side to side on the table. I use an angle iron rail on the rear of the saw and a uhmw block on the under side of the fence riding on it rather than the block sliding on the saw top but that is personal preference. When the rails are set to suit you and if the left face is still not perpendicular but the right one is, time to remove the face. Maybe the fence tube is not perfectly rectangular. Take a small punch, awl, or nail and probe the Formica till you find the fasteners (screw or bolt) Might even use a small ball peen hammer an lightly tap to find them. Once you find two of them, measure to find the others. Take the face off, check the tube for square and straight, shim as needed with pop can tin, masking tape, what ever till it comes square to the table top and is flat. If your fence face is shot after you get it off, you can make a new one with it as a pattern to get the holes in the right spots. I have used birch, walnut, uhmw, plywood with Formica, but my favorite is Corian for the faces. Take your time, check everything twice as you go and it will all work out. One last thought -- Check you blade insert to be positive it doesn't have a high corner and raise your blade clear up and check for 90 degrees from the table top. You probably already have, but if not,do these and make any corrections before doing anything else