Tricks for square edge turnings

[Nathan Clark]

OK, so I know there are some tricks for keeping the side grain from peeling at the two problem corners of a square edge project . I thought I remembered that you could put masking tape on the problem corners, but that seems to less effective than I'd like. It seams I'm forgetting a few other tricks along with chisel and technique selection. I'm know a skew would work great on a small square like a 4" banister pummel, but I'm working on a 10" plate at 1,200 RMP, so I don't feel comfortable trying that. Thanks for the input, I'm looking forward to you comments.

[John Keeton]

I'm not quite sure I understand the question, but I would be hesitant to spin a 10" piece at 1200rpms. Just a thought.

[Bob Hamilton]

When turning square edge bowls or plates I usually use the sharp tools and light cuts method to minimize the chip out at the edges as much as possible and then after the turning is complete I use a hand plane or spoke shave on the edges to remove the last traces of the chip out. That also removes the slight round over at the edges that occurs during sanding and brings the edges back to crisp corners. Actually, the first few times I turned square edge pieces I touched the edges to my stationary belt sander after turning to clean up the edges.



Take care
Bob

[Thom Sturgill]

+1 on Bob's comments. DO NOT use a table saw to clean up. DAMHIKT. Stop regularly to check thickness. Wood selection matters too. Hard maple can be worse than Cherry or Walnut. I have considered laminating a thin sacrificial piece (on all four edges) and using a plane to remove it after turning.

[Bob Bergstrom]

Speed can be your friend or cause you pain. The fist thing i do is put a piece of masking tape on the tool rest at where the farest tip of the corner will be spinning. The marks the danger zone and also the starting point to cut the rim. I always cut the corner from the farest point toward the center. There is less chance of tearing the fibers on the corners. I won't use a pull cut or shear cut near the corners. It is too easy to catch the blade and nock the corners off. I will power sand any problems or tool marks at the corners. Yes I will turn a 10" bowl at up to 2,000 rpm, but only with a good mask and well out of the firing line. The reason for speed is that the tool has less time to fall in the gaps or bounce on the wood surface. I do recommend turning only where feel comfortable.

[Nathan Clark]

So I looked at the belt and measured the wood (birds eye maple). I guess my perception of speed is way off, I don't have a digital readout and I always go on feel. It's 684 RMP and It's 9" board, perhaps I should turn the speed up a bit? It's seams I've avoided chipout in the past, I've never had to re-cut a square edge in the past. I don't own a belt sander, table saw, bandsaw, or plane, So I've just got to keep it as clean as possible, I've considered putting a little CA on the corners, but I don't want to stain the wood. I will try cutting from out to in with masking tape on the end grain to help give it some support and moving up to 908 RPM so I don't bang into the corners. If maple is just not a good choice for a square edge, I'll give up and just take the corners off.

[Bob Bergstrom]

I just use sandpaper wraped around a piece of straight wood. Works just as good as any, just may take a little longer.

[Fred Belknap]

Saved one by cutting 1/4" off using bandsaw.

[John Thorson]

In addition to the 'faster RPM', 'push cut whenever possible', 'eliminate vibration' and keeping all cuts 'light' advice I'll add that the tools need to be razor sharp. Resharpen even before you notice the tool getting dull and hone off the burr etc.

[Paul Engle]

Nathan , mayhaps a bit of practice on a scrap piece/s before you start on the real item. In the past , I have found my technique was derived by such practice , especally with the wood you want to use for your project . Running faster can be a help , but don't take our word for it , get some scrap pieces and practice .