Table Saw Setup/Alignment

[Ben de Leiris]

Hey everyone,
First post on here. I've read lots of threads and finally thought I should join. I just got a new place that finally has a decent space for a workshop.
I recently bought a used Unisaw, and to move it from the basement workshop it was in, we had to remove the table. I did not keep track of which bolt and washer came from which corner, but then I read somewhere that those are actually meant to be spacers to level the top. Does anyone have tips on how to accurately align the table with the blade, in both 90 and 45 degree positions?
Anything else I should tinker with while the whole thing is opened up?
Thanks,
Ben

[Dick Brown]

I am sure a search on SMC for cabinet saw setup will give you all you want to know. Short answer--- Square table with blade at 90 degree, tilt blade to 45, shim front, back or side of table to get square with blade when tilted. I think you will find a much more detailed
post with a search. Good luck with your Uni. I think you will love it!

[Jason White]

First rule of removing a cabinet saw top: ALWAYS make sure you keep track of which washers belong on which corner.

I know; too little too late. You learned this lesson the hard way, unfortunately.

I am sure a search on SMC for cabinet saw setup will give you all you want to know. Short answer--- Square table with blade at 90 degree, tilt blade to 45, shim front, back or side of table to get square with blade when tilted. I think you will find a much more detailed
post with a search. Good luck with your Uni. I think you will love it!

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi Ben ,I used to own a unisaw and I had to shim the top for bevel cuts.So I bought a saw gauge from woodpecker tools.They offered a master plate with the set not sure what they have these days.
If you have good straight blade and some time you can make a jig to dial in the saw.The master plate is nice because it's longer than a 10 inch blade.Let me know if any of this doesn't make sense.Im better with wood than words.Andrew

[glenn bradley]

As stated, there are thorough discussion on the site. My steps go like so and seem to get me there in short order. BTW, letting people know you can align their saw for them is not a good choice, DAMHIKT .

• Prepare a long period of uninterrupted time so you don't get rushed.
  
  • This procedure may only need to be done once so take the time to do it right.
  
  
• Remove the fence and wings.
  
  • Skip this step if your saw will be mobile.
  
  
• Level the cabinet with good ole mother earth, front to back and side to side.
  
  • May as well start on a level playing field).
  
  
• Install a blade or an alignment plate.
• Align the miter slot you will use the most with the blade.
  
  • There are four bolts that hold the top on as you know.
  • Shift the top to allow the most room for your hand to enter the throat as is reasonable (for ease of blade changes).
  • Snug one corner to act as a pivot and shift the top into position (fiddle as necessary).
  
  
• Tilt the arbor to 45* and repeat alignment, shimming the top as per:

Angle alignments.JPG

• There may be some going back and forth so again, don't get rushed.
• Return the arbor to 90* and recheck.
  
  • Tweak alignment as required.
  
  
• Return the arbor to 45* and recheck.
  
  • Tweak alignment as required.
  
  
• Install wings and fence if removed.
  
  • Tweak alignment as required.
  
  
• Adjust fence to the same miter slot you originally used for the preliminary blade alignment.
• Done.

Of course many people will have their own process that uses more or less steps. As long as it works for you, its the right way to do it . Following the steps I have laid out, I can get through the process in about 90 minutes; sometimes less , sometimes more , sometimes much more if there are reasons/wear/damages that will not allow the saw to align.

[Don Jarvie]

Get a copy of the manual and use that if all else fails.

[Ben de Leiris]

Thanks Glenn, for the most helpful response. One question. In the table for alignment with the blade at 45*: "If the back of the blade is too far (negative reading), shim front and rear brackets." Why would you shim both front and rear in this case and not just the front?

[Edward Oleen]

I think you might find the A-Line-It from In-Line Industries to be a help. I bought one years ago to tune up my contractors saw and it enabled me to get the saw spot-on.