Any good I-Box tutorials out there?

[Matt Meiser]

I never have to hold the red knob while turning the silver or hold the silver one while turning the red one. The problems that I have had is when I do the finial adjustment and forget to unlock the black knob or after doing adjustments.

Are you saying the silver knob shouldn't turn when I turn the red knob? Mine turns in lock-step with the red one when turning the red one.

[Dan Lee]

PM Alan he was very helpful to me last year when I was having my initial problems. Gave me his home phone # so we could talk about it, great guy.

BTW he seams to be pretty active on SMC

[Matt Meiser]

Thanks. I did hear back from Incra even though the guy is out of the office. I just replied back with after checking some things he requested and told him about the 1/2" test. I'm guessing they are going to replace it which stinks because I'll have to deal with shipping and waiting.

[Bill Huber]

Are you saying the silver knob shouldn't turn when I turn the red knob? Mine turns in lock-step with the red one when turning the red one.

On mine I can turn the red knob and the silver one will turn with it, I can turn the silver one to do the finial adjustment and the red one will not turn.

So after you have everything set and make the, in my case 4 test cut, you may have to turn the silver knob to get the exact fit, I do most of the time.

The thing I really like about the jig is you can switch bit or blades without having to make a different pin for a homemade jig. I have also noticed that bits are not what they say, that is a 1/4" bit will be just a little less then 1/4" and with a homemade jig this can really cause a problem. I just got a new 1/2" bit and when I checked it with 2 different calipers I got the same reading .475 but I made a box with it and using the I-Box the joints came out just fine.

[Matt Meiser]

OK, that's how mine works--just that the "exact fit" adjustment on mine is 1/32-3/64 The micrometer works great. I measured the difference between where it was and should be, dialed that in on the micrometer and I was there. But I had to adjust 1-1/2 turns on the 1/2" cut.

[Bill Huber]

OK, that's how mine works--just that the "exact fit" adjustment on mine is 1/32-3/64 The micrometer works great. I measured the difference between where it was and should be, dialed that in on the micrometer and I was there. But I had to adjust 1-1/2 turns on the 1/2" cut.

Something is still not right, I think the most I have ever had to adjust it was like 3 marks or maybe 4. Each mark on the silver knob is .001 and if you have to turn it 1 and 1/2 turns that is a bunch. All the silver knob does is change the distance from the bit or blade to get the pin the exact width of the slot.

I wish I could help more but I really don't know what to tell you.

You may want to give Mark a call at Incra, they are really good people to work with. 1-888-804-6272

[Matt Meiser]

He's out of the office until Monday but did respond to my email. At least I can get by with it the way it is and use it this weekend.

Seems like something has to be off inside but I'm not going to disassemble it to check unless Incra tells me to.

[Bill Huber]

He's out of the office until Monday but did respond to my email. At least I can get by with it the way it is and use it this weekend.

Seems like something has to be off inside but I'm not going to disassemble it to check unless Incra tells me to.

I just went out and set the jig up on the router table, did the kiss, did the width and then cut some joints. The joint was loose so I turned the silver knob 2 marks and did another test, spot on.
But again I only had to turn the silver knob 2 marks, not 1 1/2 turns.
I am using the router table and not the table saw, I don't have a good enough dado blade for the table saw.

[Rick Moyer]

Matt, I think it's Grizzly's fault .
Seriously though, it does seem like you may have a defective one. You shouldn't have to fine tune it more that a few clicks as Bill said, especially at 1/64th out.

[Alan Schaffter]

I'm still alive and still here, just been busy lately (All the grandkids were here for XMAS and I have some new widgets in various stages of development and even licensing! )

Let me see if I can help. As you can all imagine it is hard for me to troubleshoot without looking over your shoulder as you set the jig, so I'll just start at the beginning. Some of my comments will be a tad different than the INCRA instructions, but not any different in end result. I am basing these comments on other reported "problems" and solutions.

I'm not criticizing anyone here, because chances of mis-interpretation of the instructions is always a possibility, but so far, I have personally NEVER come across a problem caused by the jig- they have ALL been user error.

First, ensure your jig is set properly for and you are using it in the correct orientation for the tilt of your saw. The adjustment knobs should be on the right for a right tilt saw and visa-versa.

Next, unlock the jig and turn the red knob until the plates are in contact (righty tighty (farther apart), lefty loosey (closer together) as viewed from the knob end of the jig). Remember, you are working with a lead screw mechanism, and just like a bolt or machine screw and nut, once it appears tight, with enough force you can always over-tighten it and get another 1/4 to a full rotation- DON'T DO THAT!!!

IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you UNLOCK the MECHANISM BEFORE YOU TURN EITHER KNOB!!!

When the instructions or I say to turn the red knob and you grab and turn it, the silver knob will (and must) turn with it at the same time- ALLOW IT TO DO SO. However, whenever you are told to turn the silver knob, you MUST ALWAYS hold the red knob still and prevent it from turning even the slightest amount!!

When setting the position of the miter bar so the guide plates are in the correct position in the blade gap, make sure the guide plates are in good contact, but not over-tightened. If you aren't sure, separate them and carefully run them together again. Also, make sure that the micro set screw is in the middle of the slot (in the shank of the red knob).

Contrary to the procedure in the instructions regarding position of the sliding stock ledges- I just slide them out of the way in the beginning to be sure the guide plates don't hit them during initial calibration or when setting the finger size for a joint.

Kiss calibration- get up close and personal to ensure the blade just barely scrapes the guide plates- do not cause the guide plates or the blade to deflect- this takes a little finesse. To repeat myself- after you have turned the red knob so the plates are in contact with each other, make sure you hold the red knob stationary before and as you turn the silver knob during kiss calibration.

Now set up to cut the joint-

Remember, if you are using a reversible blade "box joint blade" like the Freud, you must recalibrate before changing finger sizes- the reason being the position of the tips on this blade change in relation to the arbor flange when you change position of the blades. With a stacked dado, regardless of stack, the same blade is always against the arbor flange, likewise the position of the flange-side blade tips . (By the way this is the reason why if you calibrated the I-BOX correctly and don't mess with the micro, you don't need to recalibrate each time you changing finger sizes when using a stacked dado.)

Once I stack my dado for the desired finger width, rather than moving the guide plates and the sliding stock ledges out of the way, I find it quicker and easier to make the sizing cut using a miter gauge.

Once you have a sizing cut, place it over the pin plates and turn the red knob until the guide plates "fit" the notch- again, a little finesse will go a long way- don't make it too tight or too loose. Again, righty-tighty, lefty loosey.

Adjust position of the stock ledges for proper stock support, install the guard, and LOCK the MECHANISM. Cut your joint(s).

Again, ALWAYS unlock the mechanism before turning either silver or red knobs! Lock it again before making cuts.

A little theory- if you calibrated and set your jig accurately, chances are your first joint may be too tight. Think about it, box joints require tolerances of just a few thousandths of an inch. You may have actually made a joint that is "too perfect", because you didn't leave any space for glue. Micro is powerful so you will likely only need 1 - 3 clicks (.001" - .003") of micro to give you a perfect fit.

Another note about micro adjust- as I said it is powerful- a little goes a long way. When you use it to adjust the fit of the joint you are essentially adjusting or changing the calibration. So, if used for some reason other than to fine tune the fit of your joint, you dial in an extreme micro like when setting up for decorative insert joints, you are essentially de-tuning the jig and must either dial out that exact amount of micro or recalibrate the jig before cutting a standard box joint.

An I-BOX will work fine on a Sawstop. Just as you should always check that your miter gauge and extension clear the blade, before you arm the saw and make your first cut, you should always double check your I-BOX setup to ensure it won't contact the blade.

Like any new or different tool or procedure, it may be slow the first few times you set up the I-BOX. Once you have done it a few times and have a better understanding how the parts of the jig work and interact, setup will be a snap- just like riding a bicycle even after not having used it for months- at least that has been my experience- not so with with my Leigh DT jig! Believe me, it is much quicker and easier to set and use an I-BOX than it is to describe how to do it in writing or verbally!

I'll try to check here often for follow-up questions. If anyone wants to chat off-thread or talk, send me a pm and you can call me at home (on your dime.) I think INCRA has a toll free number, however.

One more thing- come on you guys, I want to see some examples of the advanced joints possible with the I-BOX.

[Cameron Hood]

Well, my experience is somewhat the same as Matt's. I followed the written instructions first and got a sloppy fit. The instructions say that you should be able to adjust the fit by turning the silver knob while holding the red knob. Now get this. "Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey". Since I want the space between the silver fingers BIGGER (that is--more LOOSE, LESS TIGHT), I cranked it counter clock wise just a couple of marks. (If you don't see where I went wrong here--read it again very, very carefully!!!) Cut the ends off my sample pieces, and tried it again. For crying out loud, it is WORSE. Okay, maybe I turned it wrong the first time. Yup, I want it less tight, so I crank it another couple of marks plus the two that I think I turned the wrong way the first time. Cut the ends off my sample pieces and tried it again. Now this is just getting stupid--it is even worse. Maybe I need to turn it a whole bunch--like one revolution. Cut the ends off my sample pieces and tried it again. Hummmm, this is NOT working. I must have done something wrong. Start all over. I started out with 2 pieces of scrap about a foot long each, and barely cut the tabs off each time it didn't work. I ended up starting fresh probably 20 times over 2 days, always following the directions "as I understood them". I burned up 6 one foot lengths before giving up in disgust and putting the jig in a bottom drawer (the one with all the other useless jigs I had acquired over the years). What is that saying about doing the same things over and over again and expecting a different outcome?

Anyway, I have copied Alan's instructions and in reading them over, the light went on. Dim, but on. I will give it another try and report back.

[Bill Huber]

Well, my experience is somewhat the same as Matt's. I followed the written instructions first and got a sloppy fit. The instructions say that you should be able to adjust the fit by turning the silver knob while holding the red knob. Now get this. "Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey". Since I want the space between the silver fingers BIGGER (that is--more LOOSE, LESS TIGHT), I cranked it counter clock wise just a couple of marks. (If you don't see where I went wrong here--read it again very, very carefully!!!) Cut the ends off my sample pieces, and tried it again. For crying out loud, it is WORSE. Okay, maybe I turned it wrong the first time. Yup, I want it less tight, so I crank it another couple of marks plus the two that I think I turned the wrong way the first time. Cut the ends off my sample pieces and tried it again. Now this is just getting stupid--it is even worse. Maybe I need to turn it a whole bunch--like one revolution. Cut the ends off my sample pieces and tried it again. Hummmm, this is NOT working. I must have done something wrong. Start all over. I started out with 2 pieces of scrap about a foot long each, and barely cut the tabs off each time it didn't work. I ended up starting fresh probably 20 times over 2 days, always following the directions "as I understood them". I burned up 6 one foot lengths before giving up in disgust and putting the jig in a bottom drawer (the one with all the other useless jigs I had acquired over the years). What is that saying about doing the same things over and over again and expecting a different outcome?

Anyway, I have copied Alan's instructions and in reading them over, the light went on. Dim, but on. I will give it another try and report back.

One of the things you are getting wrong is that turning the silver know will change the space between the 2 plates, it will not change the space between the 2 plates. Turning the silver knob will only move them closer or farther from the bit, the 2 plates are set to the width of the bit or blade and will only change when you turn the red knob.

One thing Alan pointed out was locking and unlocking the top black knob, sounds like an easy thing to do and not forget but it is really easy to forget to unlock and then make adjustments.

[Matt Meiser]

Reading Alan's comments I just can't see anything I've got wrong. Remember I'm not talking loose, I'm talking 1/32 to 3/64 gaps. That's huge on a box joint. Since we'll be snowed in for at least 24 hours starting tonight I'm planning to make my daughter her shelves with it. I expect it will work fine once I complete the extra calibration steps mine seems to require. Hopefully Incra has some insight on Monday.

[Cameron Hood]

Back from the shop and this time reading with a bit of understanding. I tried again from scratch. (Three times) Removed the front blade guard completely and moved the right hand stock edge back a half inch because both of them were just things that I had to remember to loosen whenever I was trying to adjust things. So now, there is only one knob to turn to unlock the mechanism. (KISS principle!) Each time I started fresh, the fit was loose. So I tried to adjust. 1. Unlock 2. Hold red knob tightly 3. Turn silver knob 2 marks CLOCKWISE 4. Lock. Still loose and it actually doesn't look like anything changed. Tried it again--steps 1-4 exactly so now I am at a total of 4 marks clockwise. Still doesn't look like anything changed to my eye. Try again, this time moved the silver knob ONE WHOLE TURN. Now it finally is too tight.

Unless someone sees where I have gone wrong, this is not my idea of a good jig. I could have spent an hour or two adjusting my old home made model and got it right. I suspect that if I fool around with it for a couple of hours, I could get a good fit and then leave it like that forever, but sort of defeats the purpose to my mind.

If anyone can see where I went wrong, I would appreciate your input.

[Tom Ewell]

Yeah, I can't figure what's up with these problems, I use the jig infrequently enough to always have the 'notes' in hand when I set it up but don't recall ever having troubles getting a good fit, if anything, it starts too tight and need to back stuff off a little.

Hope this gets sorted, because it's a great jig (when it works )