Recently made some rolling pins and need to write a "care of" guide...

[Tim Browne]

These people obviously don't take care of their tools very well. Given that fact, I'd be leery about recommending walnut oil. I doubt they'd let it cure to become food safe and given that they make food for others. they're likely to smear some walnut oil on the rolling pin and make a cake for someone with a nut allergy. To be safe, I'd only mention mineral oil to them.

[Reed Gray]

Olive oil CAN go rancid as can some other vegetable oils because they do not cure. The thing is that you wipe off any excess. I had heard the story about how it WILL go rancid, and met a bowl turner, and that was all he ever used. That was the info he passed on to me.

The walnut oil used as a finish has been heat treated to break down the proteins that cause the nut allergies. There is no risk, that I know of, of a reaction. This has been repeated and preached by Mike Mahoney, and Mike Meridith (The Doctor's Woodshop) for a long time. The walnut oil from the grocery store is pasteurized, and is also no risk. I believe that type is heated more, which is the reason it won't cure.

robo hippy

[alex grams]

Not to derail the thread: But some rolling pins are on my to-do list, and I was curious how you guys maintain a consistent diameter over the length of the pin. I can eyeball and get it close, but do you guys just use a straight edge to check and touch up/sand areas that are high? What deviation do you find acceptable in diameter? 1/64 or less?

(maybe this is the engineer in my completely over-thinking things... who knows...)

[Reed Gray]

Well, I rough out the cylinder first. Next, using a long straight rest, I line it up with the ways of the lathe, and keep it about 1/8 inch away from the cylinder. I use my finger as a guide on the tool rest to get a pretty consistent diameter. Final step is to use 80 grit on a straight piece of wood. That pretty much gets it dead straight. Cheating I know, but it works.

robo hippy

[Ralph Lindberg]

Alex, for the diameter of the rolling pin, as one engineer (retired) to another, yes you are over thinking this. Smooth to the touch is certainly good enough.

[Jim Underwood]

Yeah. After all you're rolling dough out approximately flat to make bread or pastry which will rise in an uncontrollable fashion. It's not like you're making aircraft parts...

I've just been getting them fairly flat with the roughing gouge, then use the skew for finishing. I hold a straight edge over it and take off the high spots, then sand it smooth.

[Aric Krueger]

Here's what I include with the rolling pins I make. It's a mix of stuff I've found on the net and some of my own.

This rolling pin was finished with mineral oil (completely food safe) and then buffed with bee's wax. The bee's wax makes it shiny and resistant to finger prints until it finds it's owner. After initial cleaning the bee's wax will wash off and the gloss will disappear, but the rolling pin will remain smooth.
CARE: To keep the rolling pin in top form, wash it after each use by wiping it with warm (not hot) soapy water and a sponge or soft cloth to remove food oils and crumbs. Rinse with warm water then promptly towel off and allow to completely air dry. Do not use abrasive cleaning pads or abrasive powders/polishes of any kind. Apply a coating of mineral oil (available at most pharmacy/drug stores). Let it penetrate the wood and wipe off the excess. Do not use olive or vegetable oils as these oils will go rancid after a period of time making the rolling pin sticky and giving it an unpleasant odor.
DO NOT SOAK the rolling pin in water and NEVER put your rolling pin in the dishwasher, microwave or oven! Avoid exposing your rolling pin to direct sunlight and sudden changes of temperature. It is best stored in a safe place in your kitchen where it will not get dents on it's surface and where temperature/humidity are reasonably constant.
With proper care, a finely crafted wooden rolling pin will last for generations.


Rolling pin barrels are typically made from hard maple and sometimes birch or cherry. A hard close grained wood with small pores is desirable to prevent dents and to keep dough from sticking to it. (Oak, walnut and ash would be bad choices for the barrel. I use straight grained ash or hickory for the pins (there's a reason these two woods are the most common used for tool handles) and walnut or purple heart for the handles. I use 3" x 12" barrel, 5/8" pins and 1.5" x 4" handles with 11/16" holes to accommodate the pins; the pins are 2" deep into the barrel.

For anyone interested, this is a good tutorial. The drilling method keeps the pin from being a wobbly roller.
http://www.turnedtreasures.com/proje...lling_pin.html

[Jim Underwood]

Good info there Aric.

It is interesting that I've come up with almost the same configuration; 3" diameter solid maple barrel, 5/8" hickory axle pins that are 2" deep into the barrel, 1-5/8 dia x 4" long (maple) handles with 11/16" holes, I would have made these rollers shorter but the customer requested 14" length.

I also used a steady rest to help drill the barrels.

Thanks to all of you for your input.