Shop noise reduction - acoustic ceiling tiles / insulation?

[Victor Robinson]

Noise in my garage shop is a big issue for me since the neighbors are attached (row house). I try to mitigate the noise issue in part by purchasing quieter tools, and from strategic tool positioning.

I've long thought about various structural strategies for reducing the noise through my shop walls/ceiling. It is currently uninsulated framing. I haven't insulated down there because we do have some knob and tube wiring and I wasn't sure if it's worthwhile to pack some insulation into bays that do not have the wiring for at least SOME effect. How much of a reduction in noise can I really expect with a partial insulation job? Better than nothing? Worth the cost/effort?

Another thing I've thought about is installing acoustic ceiling tiles. How effective are these? Are they difficult to install? Can they be installed on walls? They are more attractive than finishing the ceiling/walls since they are easily removed when you need access to wiring/plumbing etc., which is kind of frequent for me since we're always in a renovation state and most of the house's wiring is accessible from the garage ceiling.

Any experience here would be appreciated. I really need to cut down noise, if only to make myself feel better and less inhibited in my own darn shop.

[Doug Ladendorf]

I've started slowly working my way around my shop insulating with Roxul ComfortBatt and there is a good bit of noticeable noise reduction. This is one of the primary reasons for using Roxul over standard insulation and it seems to be working. If you need further sound reduction you might consider putting up homasote under your drywall, OSB or outer layer of choice. As for machines, I moved from a 12" lunchbox planer to a 15" belt-run planer and the sound reduction was about 10dB. That was a significant difference and made using the planer less painful to the ears.
Doug

[Jim Andrew]

My nephew used the blue denim batts for sound insulation in his new house, appears to work well. He bought it at Menards. It is recycled from denim clothes. My shop ceiling is the grid system with tiles, I didn't use it for sound, but it works pretty well. And you can remove a tile and substitute a light when you need to.

[Victor Robinson]

Thanks guys. Doug - can Roxul batts be left uncovered?

Jim - I don't know a whole lot about ceiling tile installations. How costly does it tend to be and what is the degree of difficulty on the install? How are penetrations dealt with? I have a lot of stuff hanging from joists (e.g. heating ducts). Is removing tiles temporarily to gain access to wiring/plumbing easy?

[Jim Andrew]

Cost of suspended ceilings is significant, if you buy your new. I salvaged mine when my bank was remodeling. Just asked my loan officer about it, and we went and talked to the contractors and I showed up with my trailer when they were removing the ceiling. I helped take it down, they helped me load the stuff on my trailer and it was FREE! What I have found is that when commercial remodeling is going on, these ceilings go to the landfill. It is not as easy as you would like to take it down, but possible. Not as handy if you have insulation batts on top of it. But still works. I attach boards to the framing to drop below the ceiling to attach things to, put some wall angle on the boards and sometimes have to add a short T and cut the tile down so it is supported on the edges. Need to do some planning before you start the install of the grid, use the main T's on 4' centers and center the panels on the room, and make your cuts on all 4 edges of the room if you want it centered. You don't want a full tile on one end and 2" pieces on the other. As far as lights, they usually replace those on remodels as well. I picked up 13 troffer lights the last time I salvaged a ceiling. If you know any contractors, ask them about salvaging a ceiling.

[Lee Schierer]

The first thing I would do is completely eliminate all the knob and tube wiring as it is dangerous and a fire risk, particularly if you are running your tools on any of it. Once I had the wiring replaced I would build a wall with studs off set from the existing studs and spaced out about 2" then weave sound rated insulation in and out between the studs and cover the wall with 5/8 dry wall or better yet two layers of 1/2". The off set studs will prevent sound transmission through the wood. Do the same for the ceiling if you have neighbors above your work space. Your local building codes may dictate what you can and cannot use on the walls and ceiling since your space is a garage.

Option #2 would be to get your neighbors all interested in woodworking so they buy tools and make noise too.

[Edward Mitton]

Excellent Option #2, Lee!
Option 3 is to go mostly Neander!
No worries about noise or large amonts of airborne dust.
However, drill presses, bandsaws, and scrollsaws make the least amount of noise of all the power tools, and fit nicely into a relatively quiet, 'mostly Neander' environment.

[Ralph Okonieski]

I used Roxul in the ceiling of my basement shop (under our family room). My wife said it was much quieter, so it must have worked. I left the Roxul uncovered.

[Scott Brihn]

I also installed Roxul in the ceiling of my basement shop and covered it with sheetrock. It makes the TS and DC sound about as loud as the furnace in the bedrooms directly above the shop (2 floors up). In other parts of house a low hum can be heard.

[Doug Ladendorf]

Victor, the Roxul batts are firm and fit snugly. They shouldn't go anywhere on their own so I would think they could be left uncovered. I don't know what kind of hit you would take if any by covering them. You might call the manufacturer. They would probably be happy to provide info.
Doug