Pro Question, Trestle table

[Larry Edgerton]

I have to meet with a customer tomorrow about a table she wants built. Trestle table, 6' overall top, very heavy solid base with no footwell. I played with it and I do not like the design, but the customer is an architect, so you see my dilemma. I do not want to insult, but I also do not want to build an expensive table that does not work.

Without telling you what I am thinking, what do you consider a comfortable overhang at the ends for an adult? They have four kids that they expect to sit on the sides, adults on the ends. And of course the kids are not going to be small forever. Give me you're thoughts if you would.

I may throw a changeable prototype together using the general consensious here and her drawing that she can use for a couple of weeks to make sure it is what she wants.

Gotta run......

Larry

[Peter Quinn]

Client management is the trickiest part of this business. If you have a sense that she is open to considering your suggestion that her design doesn't work I'd make the attempt, offer to mock it up quick full scale in MDF or such? Or SPF quickly joined. I'm designing a small table for my toughest client.....my wife....I've been pouring over every detail of every basic table form for several months now, and some designs just don't work, some you lose seating at the ends, some more classic designs are just perfect but don't feel original or current. With your level of experience I hope she is inclined to trust your instincts!

I've built a few things over the years I felt were plain stupid, design was terrible, some highly accredited idiot with inability to edit and ego to spare was behind the process....at work I proceed with mouth shut and collect my pay check. A few times my observations proved correct as I learned on the remake.... Nothing is more fun than fixing a problem for a client that could have been avoided in the initial construction with good communication. It's a lose lose. So I would diplomatically broach the subject at least.

[Tony Joyce]

what do you consider a comfortable overhang at the ends for an adult?

I would say the recommended minimum is 12".

Tony

[johnny means]

I politely voice my professional opinion. Then I shut up and do as I'm told. BTW, emailing your opinion makes a nice permanent record.

[Jim Foster]

I have a custom made trestle table with a 12" overhang over each end. It works fine. Less and it probably would not work. Your customer is an architect, she should know this stuff.

One other thought, I wanted ours to be a one piece table for rigidity. It's very heavy and difficult to move. If I could do it over again, I'd make it a true knock down table.

[David Gutierrez]

is it their design? if they are telling you to execute a design they have created then I would bring it up as a functional issue. if you get push back then build the piece as they want. All you can do is give them the benefit of your expertise if they disagree build what they asked for.

[Mark Bolton]

We just built one with 20" at the ends and I feel like its plenty comfortable. 12" isnt even close in my opinion but this table was 14' long to seat 14-16 people. Of course you've got to be dealing with a top that can support 20".

[Peter Quinn]

Realized i never answered the actual question, I'm thinking 10" is a bare minimum, for taller people with larger legs, 12-15 would be more appealing. A slighter overhang would work at a casual table wher people don't really push the chair all the way in, like a breakfast spot in a kitchen or such.

[Sam Murdoch]

We just built one with 20" at the ends and I feel like its plenty comfortable. 12" isnt even close in my opinion but this table was 14' long to seat 14-16 people. Of course you've got to be dealing with a top that can support 20".

+ 1 to Mark's comment and if it's permissible you could actually build a frame (in effect an apron 4" +/- tall that can be set within 6" of the top edge no matter what the over hang from the base. This "apron" is what the top is floated to while a few cross members properly placed allow the top and apron to be secured to the base as a unit.

[Mark Bolton]

I politely voice my professional opinion. Then I shut up and do as I'm told. BTW, emailing your opinion makes a nice permanent record.

Johnny,
Thats great to an extent, and it will likley get the bills paid which is often the only aim.

I often times think I have been very lucky but I really dont think luck has to do with it. I have never met a customer that wouldnt open up to reason, its not to say there isnt some compromise.

[Mark Bolton]

Realized i never answered the actual question, I'm thinking 10" is a bare minimum, for taller people with larger legs, 12-15 would be more appealing. A slighter overhang would work at a casual table wher people don't really push the chair all the way in, like a breakfast spot in a kitchen or such.

Not to sound off Peter but, are you serious? Have you sat at a centrally supported table (leg in the center) with a 12" overhang? Or better yet a 10"?! I honestly dont know that its possible.

Just for the heck of it I slide cardboard box under my desk and choked my desk off to about 12" and all I can say is it'd be a dinner where I wouldnt eat much..

Maybe I'm interpreting the trestle and central support differently but hang a 12" board off the wall and sit down to eat. It aint gonna be fun.

[Jeff Duncan]

The problem as I see it is it's only a 6' top. If you try to leave 20" at the ends the base is going to look awful strange IMHO I think I'd play around with the design on paper first to see how it looks. I'm guessing 14" - 16" at the ends is roughly where you want to be. I don;t do much furniture but I did a trestle table a few years back roughly that size. I'll see if I can dig up any details of it this weekend.

good luck,
JeffD

[Larry Edgerton]

The problem as I see it is it's only a 6' top. If you try to leave 20" at the ends the base is going to look awful strange IMHO I think I'd play around with the design on paper first to see how it looks. I'm guessing 14" - 16" at the ends is roughly where you want to be. I don;t do much furniture but I did a trestle table a few years back roughly that size. I'll see if I can dig up any details of it this weekend.

good luck,
JeffD

Bingo!

I like to see at least 14", preferably 16", [size 12 feet]and with that it throws the whole look out of whack. Minus the 4" for the legs it only leaves 40" of space for the two occupants on the side, which to me, admitedly a claustrophobic, a little uncomfortable.

I just wanted some different perspectives before I meet with them at my house tomorrow. I had to run and pick up my mom from the hospital after the OP and it gave me time to think about my approach. I can't afford to lose a house job because of a table so I am just going to build what they want. I do however have a 42"x8' slab of Jatoba that I may use to get the table length longer. I'll just refuse to cut it shorter than 7'6". If they like it the table will have to be longer or we will have to find a different piece of wood.

As usual, thank you for all the helpful replies gentlemen.

Larry

[Pat Barry]

You are dealing with an architect and the architect told you what they want, then just do it. Do it well and you will get repeat business, show them up and you will feel like you were right but that will be the last job you do for them. 2nd thought - OK - make one very polite inquiry about your concern and thats it.

[Stephen Cherry]

This is why I don't like trestle tables. I have looked at it quite a bit, and for a normal, 4 leg table, 36" by 60" is the best size if you want to make the table small. It's great for for 6 friends, but it can't work for a trestle table.

In my opinion, a trestle table wants to be at least 6 feet, and preferably longer, for comfort. Even 6' 6" gives you something like 4 feet between the trestles, and a little over a foot on each of the ends for some legroom. If it has to be short, having an area for toes under each trestle would help quite a bit (a Maloof style trestle, rather than a trestle on a plinth).