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Thread: Door pulls, where to install them...

  1. #1
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    Door pulls, where to install them...

    Hey guys,

    I'm finishing up this Cherry island/dining table for a client. I'm just looking for some advice on what location may look best for the door pulls. I have a pair of oil rubbed bronze knobs. The spaces between the 1" trim strips are 6-1/4"x5-7/16". I was thinking of placing them in the second squares from the top centered vertically maybe 1-1/2"-2" from the edge.

    Any thoughts?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

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    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  2. #2
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    How tall is the piece -- 30" or so? If so, you're proposing to put the pulls perhaps 20" above the floor. People opening the cabinet are likely to standing, right? Maybe putting the pulls higher would be good. Maybe in the top square?

  3. #3
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    You might consider using pressured activated catches rather tan pulls. Nice door design ad pulls may detract from the overall all effect. My other reaction is a c-handle that would straddle the rails and mount to the panels. This way you are not constrained by the frame placement. Nice piece.

    Doug

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by G Douglas Fowler View Post
    You might consider using pressured activated catches rather tan pulls. Nice door design ad pulls may detract from the overall all effect.. Nice piece.

    Doug
    What he said........

    Larry

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    How tall is the piece -- 30" or so? If so, you're proposing to put the pulls perhaps 20" above the floor. People opening the cabinet are likely to standing, right? Maybe putting the pulls higher would be good. Maybe in the top square?
    The base measures 34-1/2"Hx36"Wx18"D. The table top measures 54"x40". I'm trying to balance the aesthetics vs. functionality and ease of access. The table top will make it harder to reach the door pulls if they're up real high.
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

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    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  6. #6
    nice work !!!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by G Douglas Fowler View Post
    You might consider using pressured activated catches rather tan pulls. Nice door design ad pulls may detract from the overall all effect. My other reaction is a c-handle that would straddle the rails and mount to the panels. This way you are not constrained by the frame placement. Nice piece. Doug
    I like this idea. Do you have any specific recommendations?
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

    -----------------

    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  8. #8
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    I found some on rocklers site. They look pretty good. I'll go with that. Thanx!
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

    -----------------

    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  9. #9
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    My experience with touch-latches is bad. They break too easily, often when the door is closed. Then you're in big trouble.

    Here's one more thought. Put just one knob or pull on the front. It is on the stile of the door that overlaps the other door. The user always has to open the overlapping door first. Use magnets to latch the overlapping door. The other door is held closed by the overlapping door.

  10. #10
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    Hey Michael,

    What ever happened with that job building a bunch of store shelving? Did you get it?

    Rick Potter

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    My experience with touch-latches is bad. They break too easily, often when the door is closed. Then you're in big trouble.

    Here's one more thought. Put just one knob or pull on the front. It is on the stile of the door that overlaps the other door. The user always has to open the overlapping door first. Use magnets to latch the overlapping door. The other door is held closed by the overlapping door.
    I was thinking of the magnetic type. I too do not like the mechanical type.

    Larry

  12. #12
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    I have switched over to using rare earth magnets for holding doors closed on cabinets and such. Most of the time 1/4" diameter x 1/4" long rod magnets one in the door, and one in the stop block drilled and pressed into a 15/64" hole work fine.

  13. #13
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    I like the idea of hiding the mechanism, either with a magnet or button catch.

    That way, you could make the opening "pull" one of the cross rails.
    This is a very sharp looking cabinet as it is, any additions will be visually distracting.

    Do you have any more of the same material that form the rails?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Potter View Post
    Hey Michael, What ever happened with that job building a bunch of store shelving? Did you get it? Rick Potter
    The chain display units? The owner said that Farm & Fleet will make there decision late first quarter this year. His need for the display units depends on whether he wins this large contract.
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

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    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Matthews View Post
    I like the idea of hiding the mechanism, either with a magnet or button catch. That way, you could make the opening "pull" one of the cross rails. This is a very sharp looking cabinet as it is, any additions will be visually distracting. Do you have any more of the same material that form the rails?
    Thanx for the kind words! I'm really liking the idea of not having an actual pull to keep the focus on the door design. I suppose I could route a small amount of material away from the rear side of the 1" strip that overhangs the left door. Although it's only 1/4" thick so that would be precarious.
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

    -----------------

    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

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