[OP]
Member
I make gunstocks for a living. I often cut blanks of wood that are 2 to 3 inches thick. I also would like to re-saw 10 inches. I now the saw has the capacity but has anyone done this with the 2 hp and wished or felt they needed more power? Or is the 2hp plenty?
Member
I used to have the Grizz 17" but the old one only had 7" capacity - so not an exact comparison. I often sawed arches in green white pine 6" material for timber work. The power (1-1/2hp) was plenty. Blade selection was the key. I now have a PM 141 and a PM 81. The 81 is a 20" saw with a 2hp motor and has all the power I need. Again, blade selection and set up is the key. The Grizz that I had came with flat tires. A set up with crowned tires might be preferred here. So, if you get to the point you do need more power, and you want to do more re-sawing, then you might want to start "the search" and come up with a larger saw that will handle this. I'd keep the Grizz and just have a small blade, but add an up-sized saw when the time is right.
I'd love to see some of your work - please post. I've only built a few rifles (on '98 actions), but have truly enjoyed the process. Detail work in walnut is quite different, and satisfying on another level (a higher one) than was making huge joints with white pine.
Tony
Contributor
Doug,
As Dave or Erik will likely come in here and tell you, "no one regrets getting a bigger saw or more powerful one, but many regret getting a small saw or one less powerful." Cry once at the purchase time with price, not repeatedly for not having the power or saw you need to adequately and safely perform the job.
[OP]
Member
Thanks guys. I would have to agree. I don't think ill do much re sawing but I hate to be underpowered. I really need two bandsaws as it is because I cut small aluminum parts as well and I want to keep a dedicated saw for that, Changing blades takes too much time and the aluminum chips are best kept away from a finished gunstock.
I also cut finished gunstocks to install adjustable combs. This requires a bit of finesse and hope a 5hp saw wouldn't run to rough or shaky.
I have been meaning to post a gun in the wood working projects section so I'll do that today.
You can PM me for more info if you'd like as well.
Member
I have a King 17" and apart from the nameplate on the front, they are essentially the exact same bandsaw. I have re-sawn to the full 12" with the 2hp motor. I think based on the current flow it really is about 1.5hp, but as Tony said, it all comes down to the blade. I think it's a misconception that you need a whole lot of HP to cut through wood with a bandsaw. It really is not true. You are turning two big wheels that will give you momentum and the real consideration is a good blade that has large enough gullets to take away the woodcuttings and the feed rate that you push the wood through with. Push too hard on a 5HP motor and to exceed the blades capability to clear away the chips and you won't cut very well. A light touch on a 1hp motor so you are only taking small cuts and you will cut without trouble, it will just take longer to cut.
I have had very good results with my bandsaw, and if I was to repurchase again, I would buy a 17" Grizzly. (I didn't because I needed to have the CSA cert and at that time, Grizzly didn't offer it).
Contributor
IMHO, if you can swing it, I'd try to find a used MM16. One of my regrets is I didn't spend just a couple more bucks early on. I think the MM16 would make you very very happy.
Contributor
I have a 1.5 HP 17" saw and it saws 11 inch deep material without an issue.
First Cut.jpgThe above is my bandsaw mill making a cut in the 18 to 20 inch range, powered by a 2 HP electric motor.
2HP will be more power than you'll need.
Regards, Rod.
Moderator
2hp is not underpowered for me. I saw a decent amount of green wood turning blanks - up to 8-10" thick. I've also resawn 'dry' 12" thick cherry and walnut a few times, and I've never felt it was wanting more hp.
I think those 5hp bandsaws are designed for production resawing, no?
I second the opinion that the key is a good blade.
I resaw 10" material with my 2HP Grizzly G0513X without issue. If I am going for a cleaner cut, I will move about 1 inch per second. If I don't care I will move at the pace the saw tells me (through sound and feel) is OK. I have seen 5HP saws demonstrated at the shows with crbide blades and they move the material at about the same speeds so, I do not know that 5HP buys you any raw speed except at the sacrifice of cut quality. As for capability to resaw 12"; the 2HP machine I have will do that without a problem assuming a good blade. As the demand on the machine goes up, the impact of a sub-optimal blade's effect on the cut also goes up.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Contributor
I have the 2 hp grizzly and have re saw maple at 12" with my old blade and no issue. Now have carbide blade and is like having second table saw. If was in market now would want more re saw height though.
Member
I have the 19" version of that saw with 2HP. With a sharp blade that is suited for what you are trying to do I have never wished for more power - Table saw is another matter - there I can stall out my 3 hp motor but never the BS.
YMMV
Member
I've had the 17" HD griz for almost 10 years now. It's the 2hp model. I've cut 12/4 no problems. I made an 8 sided pencil post bed and cut 4 blanks out of one massive 10' long board and it never grunted. I use a laguna carbide tipped blade. If you go that route call sales and tell them you are a member here and you get a heck of a discount. Now on the other hand, I have never ever had a machine and said, "Dang I've got too much power and wished I had less" If you can afford the 5hp and the circuit wiring to go with it, then get the 5hp. I can say with confidence though the 2hp will do the job though just put a good blade on it. If you can't afford the laguna blade (but its worth it), then timberwolfe from suffolk machinery will do as a 2nd. You just need to change them a lot more often. Good luck!Originally Posted by Doug Carpenter
Added pic's of the 17" in action with 12/4'
bandsaw-pic1.jpgbandsaw-pic2.jpg
Last edited by Keith Hankins; 01-13-2014 at 4:27 PM. Reason: added pic's
Member
I have a 18" bandsaw with 1.5hp motor and it never seems to have issue resawing 10" of bubinga when the right blade (Woodmaster CT 1.3 TPI), and it doesn't show any sign of bogging down. So unless you want to feed really really fast, it's not underpowered.
[OP]
Member
It looks like I could go middle of the road and just upgrade to the 19" saw. It has a 12" re-saw height and a 3hp motor. That might be the answer.
Contributor
If you're talking about the G0514X2, I have one and it's a nice saw. Again, I have nothing bad to say about it, and it is a very nice saw, but as a pro that does this stuff for a living I do sometimes wish I had found an MM16 instead. Sometimes, I just wish it was a little stiffer. It's stiff enough, and it's nice but I wouldn't mind a little nicer. One day, I'll bring an MM16 into the shop and dedicate the big Grizz to curve cutting. I run a Laguna Resaw King blade on it. It took several tries to get a blade that was built properly, however the finish off the blade once I got it working is incredible. I can't say enough good things about that blade....except it is a bit pricey for that size saw. It lasts a LONG time, though. The Woodslicer is very nice too except it dulls very quickly. I'd probably start with a Woodslicer, just to get my feet wet, and go from there.
If you get a large saw, absolutely get the brake...any brake. I have the foot brake. Without a brake, a big saw like this will take minutes to spin down.
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