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Thread: Opinion on Planer for Cleaning Rough Sawn: Repair, Buy Used or Change Knives?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,538
    Add me to the confused list. Use that machine you just blew a few grand on!

    And i wouldn't be too thrilled with the service center for the 735. They say the estimate is $25, but might be $300+? It's not that complicated a machine and with some internet searching I'm sure you could figure out what's wrong with it.

  2. #17
    just clean your rough lumber with a wire brush and/or air hose and run it through the best machine possible.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,178
    Back in1973, I bought a brand new Ford F-100 pickup (for $2650!); a friend told me to give one of the bed top edges a good whack with a piece of firewood so that I'd right away get over wanting to keep it showroom pristine -- it was bought as a tool, after all.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Add me to the confused list. Use that machine you just blew a few grand on!

    And i wouldn't be too thrilled with the service center for the 735. They say the estimate is $25, but might be $300+? It's not that complicated a machine and with some internet searching I'm sure you could figure out what's wrong with it.
    I took it to mean the estimate cost 25 (which they will likely apply toward the repair). Meaning they arent going to tear the machine down for free.

    My local DeWalt center will tell you what the base fee is and what the maximum they will charge to fix anything wrong with the tool. But there is always the minimum. No free estimates so to speak.

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Drew View Post
    Back in1973, I bought a brand new Ford F-100 pickup (for $2650!); a friend told me to give one of the bed top edges a good whack with a piece of firewood so that I'd right away get over wanting to keep it showroom pristine -- it was bought as a tool, after all.
    Frank hits the nail on the head. I probably take this to an extreme and intentionally use stuff hard right out of the gate because I hate having new/shinny things. Nothing worse than walking on the jobsite with a brand new pair of boots or carhartts. Better to drag them through the mud a bit first ;-).

    Im in the confused column myself as I would never phathom keeping a planer "for special" and having one for coarse work unless it was as Larry mentioned, a PM180, byrd or on board grinder would be fine with me. A real machine for roughing. But even that is luxury to be able to keep a machine with clean(er) knives on it for final passes.

    Perhaps its good to remember that a thickness planer is simply a roughing tool. Its not delivering the final finish regardless of how pretty and shinny it is or the knives are.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    179
    I have multiple sets of Tersa knives for different purposes. I use my M2 HSS knives for most of my all around jointing, Chrome knives for softwoods, and if needed M42 Colbalt knives for my finish jointing on hardwoods. Tersa does make Carbide knives but they are really expensive. I read that the Carbide version would be good for general use but does not create the same amazing glow the M2 and M42 provides. It takes me less than 2 minutes to switch out the knives and that is the beauty of the Tersa system. Enjoy your new toy.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    2,831
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Shields View Post
    Sorry for your confusion.

    There are a members here who have 2 planers for doing exactly what I'm suggesting, so I'm not all that out of line.

    Thanks,

    Mike
    No need to apologize, nor would I say your out of line. I'm just trying to figure out exactly what your trying to do? I have 2 planers as well, but the lunchbox is for odd jobs I don't want going through the real planer. It sounds like you want to run rough stock through one planer, and then run it again through another planer but haven't given us a reason why? Maybe your right and someone else here does do such a thing, it's just the first I've ever heard of it? So are you planing painted wood or some other special situation, or are you simply running the same pieces of rough sawn stock through 2 machines? Once we know your reasoning it may make more sense to us.

    good luck,
    JeffD

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    I didn't see if you got the Tersa but they are the one planer fits all machine. I do run both insert and tersa because I like machines but am careful with the insert and run anything suspicious through the tersa. Dave

  9. #24
    Mike ,you have done a good service in pointing out the superiority of the finish with M2 and M42. My understanding of the carbo chrome is it is more resistant to high acid woods than the junk that comes in many new machines,but I doubt it adds any advantage over the good steels.

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