Best all-around bandsaw under $3k

[Chris Morrow]

I've read through many of the bandsaw threads here but still would like opinions on the best all around bandsaw under $3k. I'm setting up a shop in half of a 2 car garage and would like to get a nice bandsaw to complement hand tools. I may get some kind of track saw, but no tablesaw, chop saw, jointer or planer so I was thinking about splurging on a really nice bandsaw. Projects would include acoustic guitars, wooden kayaks, and furniture. It would be used mostly for ripping followed by curves followed by resaw. Priorities are on cut quality, ease of blade changes, throat depth, table size.

Options I'm considering:

• pm1500: kinda expensive but seems to be pretty nice for my needs. Does not require guard changes going from 1/8 to 1" blades
• mm16: doesn't take smaller blades without changing guides and many have described these as more dedicated resaw machines
• felder510/hammer n4400: does not seem to take blades smaller than 3/8" - according to the specs
• laguna 14suv: could save some money but doesn't really excite me too much - would rather go with the Powermatic
• Scrounging up more $$ and going for a laguna lt16 or 18. Probably overkill and awfully expensive.

Most threads here seem to focus on resaw capabilities, but that is my lowest priority so I'm curious to hear what people think?

[Michael Mahan]

I got a MiniMax MM20 ( I sent the MM16 back , bigger is better ) & a Rikon 10" (Craftsman clone @ Sears ) best of both worlds the 10" sits on the bench .
the MM16 is $2900 I got the Rikon/Craftsman for $200
IMO changing blades is Such a pain in rear that getting two Band Saw is just better

[Mike Heidrick]

MM16 will do everything. It is not a resaw only bandsaw by far. Even the MM20 can run down to 1/8 blades.

[richard poitras]

Chris were are you located as there is a 16'' laguna on Craigs List in Bay City Michigan for $950.00 that looked like a good deal ... Not mine.

Richard

[Stephen Cherry]

I vote for used- as you get a lot more bang for the buck. I have a 24 inch aggazani, which was about 2200 including a bunch of blades. Also there is the bridgewood pbs540 (it's Italian), which comes up from time to time for about 1k.

Any of the italian saws would be worth looking at.

It would take some patience for your deal to come up.

[Guy Belleman]

Chris, lot of good advice on bandsaws, but considering that your "Projects would include acoustic guitars, wooden kayaks, and furniture" , "but no tablesaw, chop saw, jointer or planer", I am not sure the full scope of what you need is realistic with just a bandsaw. All of the folks that I know do all each of those types of projects have quite few tools, which includes at least a couple of those on your no buy list.

As far as bandsaws, I highly recommend either the Grizzly 17" or 19". Both are great saws. However, for some of your small work you might want a small saw, maybe even a scroll saw.

Good luck.

[Rich Riddle]

The MiniMax is the best of the ones you mention, the Powermatic the least desirable. I own all the brands of tools you mention and a Powermatic 143 band saw, so there is no animosity toward any brand. When picking up a Hammer K3 Winner sliding table saw in Delaware last year, I was able to see the Hammer N4400 and Felder models, but don't remember seeing the Felder 510. The MiniMax is better quality and better made. If looking for the Laguna, look for the HD model, not the lesser models.

Indicate where you live so folks can offer better guidance.

1. Minimax
2. Felder/Hammer
3. Laguna models you mention
4. Powermatic
or;

1. Minimax
2. Laguna HD model
3. Felder/Hammer
4. Powermatic

[John Coloccia]

My choice would absolutely be an MM16 with a smaller bandsaw dedicated to curve cutting. I currently have a Grizz 514X2 setup for resaw/ripping and a 555 setup for curves.

[Jim Andrew]

Check to see if the Felder is still on sale. They had a pretty good end of year discount that ran into January. Minimax runs an end of year sale too. When I got my MM16 it came with some cool blocks for running narrow blades. My narrowest are 3/8" wide, no problem cutting curves.

[Bill Whig]

I've read through many of the bandsaw threads here but still would like opinions on the best all around bandsaw under $3k.

As has been implied, $3000 is a lot to spend on a bandsaw if you don't know exactly why you want it. Better to wait until you at least want resaw-capability before you buy it (IMHO). I also never heard anyone complain about having 2 bandsaws--as it reduced the need for blade changes.

Bill Whig

[Frank Drew]

As has been implied, $3000 is a lot to spend on a bandsaw if you don't know exactly why you want it. Better to wait until you at least want resaw-capability before you buy it (IMHO).

I made custom furniture for over 25 years and used my bandsaw a fair amount but only rarely resawed stock, mostly for things like drawer sides out of quartered oak; I veneered but never resawed my own veneers.

Brand new is nice, but if it was me with that budget I'd also look strongly at some older machines (Tannewitz, Yates, etc.)

[johnny means]

That type of money would get two maybe even three good bandsaws on the used market. I say this because, after owning a 24" beast for a few years, I find myself dreading every blade change. Ultimately, I'd like to have a couple more so I could optimize each for one purpose. Also, I find myself not really setting up for cuts add well as I should, because it is so tiresome. So in the end my one really capable machine rarely ever performs as well as it could.

[Loren Woirhaye]

Second-hand Northfield, Yates, Oliver. I've seen 36" Agazanni's sold real cheap too... large saws are something of a hassle to sell.

What Johnny Means says has merit too. I resaw on a Hitachi that takes a 3" wide blade. The guides are just for that blade and the optional Hitachi guides to run narrow blades are not an impressive design. I cut curves on a 20" INCA I leave set up with a 1/4" blade and never resaw on it. Changing wide blades out can be a wrestling match.

[Erik Loza]

I'll stay out of the "which brand to buy" part of the discussion for obvious reasons but do want to add my 2-cents on the question of whether to wait for a good deal on a used machine or to buy a new one.

Basically, unless collecting old iron is your hobby (and there are folks here, whose hobby it most certainly is...), I would not consider a used machine. Here is why: Deals on European-manufactured bandsaws (assuming that is what you are shooting for...) are few and far between. I talk to customers all the time who tell me, year after year, "Gee, I'm just waiting for the right deal to come down the pipeline". After hearing that, I think to myself, "Your time must not be worth very much, then". The reason I say this is because that logic assumes you will do zero woodworking in the time it takes you to find that magical deal. In other words, could you not be using that machine right now? And could the use you would be getting out of it have a value to you? I like rummaging through the discount shelf at the neighborhood hardware store but that's because I like rummaging through the discount shelves, not because I need a new nail gun. If I need a new nail gun, I'll just buy a new nail gun because I want to move forward with my projects and actually get them accomplished.

My suggestion to anyone who is considering the acquisition of a machine with the express goal of improving or otherwise enabling their workflow, regardless of what brand you want to go with, is not to wait around for a deal on a used machine. Just buy a new one. Sure, an opportunity might fall into your lap at the right moment but that is rare, very rare. Otherwise, in my experience, this is the quickest way to "not" move forward, LOL.

Getting back to a question that was mentioned earlier, any of the Euro-style bandsaws will handle thin blades, no problem. This is because the tires are flat and tracking the blades is much easier than with crowned tires that seem to be the norm among Asian machines. You will probably have to swap out the stock guides in order to go below 1/2" or so but the guide heads are generally universal and guides like the Carter Stabilizer will bolt right up to the existing bracketry. And as Mike M. pointed out, if you plan to run a thin blade quite a bit, it might make more sense to have a smaller dedicated BS just for that.

OP, best of luck in your search,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Dominic Carpenter]

I love my Grizzly 17" X2. Plenty of power and accurate, well built machine. I own a hammer slider and combo machine, and the Grizzly has never disappointed me, even through a max resaw of 12".