Router Table Rebuild: What Are Your Suggestions?

[Todd Willhoit]

A few years ago I built Norm's NYW router table. I used Borg plywood for the carcass and oversized the MDF top. Otherwise I followed the plans. At the time I did not have a table saw. My circular saw with shop-made ZCI and a clamping guide made "nearly square parts", but some "issues" resulted in never completing the drawers or the dust collection cavity. As it is, I have a box that produces loads of dust and, by chance, has cubbies to store stuff...which accumulates dust.

I am going to rebuild the beast. Realizing that the each feature reflects personal taste and needs, I would like to know what folks find important. I have some areas of focus that come to mind for me but I would like to know what you think. Show us your pictures!


1. Overall Size: As mentioned, my current table follows the Norms design. I find it ok, but I don't have any other reference. I used ply, some use hardwood, some don't have a cabinet. What would you use? Would you go larger or smaller?

2. Work Surface:
2a. Size: How big is yours? I increased the width of the NYW top by about 6". In retrospect I think it is too large, but the overhang around all sides make it easy to clamp things to the table. I think I used two layers of 3/4" MDF for the top vs. the planned 3/4+1/2. It has worked well so far.
2b. Material: I am curious to know what others prefer for material too.
2c. Miter/T-Slots: Do you use them?

3. Fence: I didn't complete the NYW fence. I have used a piece of MDF or plywood, notched out at the bit, and clamped to the top. It won't win any beauty contest, but it works.

4. Lift Position: I didn't see the value in having the lift in the center of the surface. I moved it toward the rear to leave more work area in the front.

5. Lift Cavity: In my opinion, the cavity for the lift/router is a grossly oversized space-waster. In V2.0 I plan to make it just tall enough to have hand room under a fully lowered router, and wide enough to get my hands around to clear chips, etc.

6. Dust Collection: The NYW plan was for rear collection which works nicely for a secondary hose to collect chips at the fence. The downside is that it can't be as close to a wall. I saw one design that collected from the bottom. I'm not sure that that method is any more practical.

7. Bit Storage: Some have drawers like Norm, some use foam inserts, some keep bits in bags or boxes in a drawer. What works for you?

8. Extra Drawers: I would like to be able to store my other routers, wrenches, small jigs, etc. in the extra drawers at the bottom of the cabinet. It seems reasonable to keep this related stuff in one place. I could probably get an extra drawer by reducing the size of the router cavity.

9. External Power/Speed Control: A power switch on the outside would make it easier to incorporate some sort of E-stop.

10. Others: ???


So, how would you do it? What would you do if you were to revamp you table? With your input, this thread might become a SMC treatise on router table design.

Todd

[Roy Turbett]

Norm built two different versions of his router table. I have both sets of plans and the second is definitely better than the first. I built the second version according to his plan and am pleased with its performance. I just used it today and used all of the features on the fence and table including the dust collection.

I don't see any reason you couldn't move the dust collection to the side by simply shortening the depth of the drawers or eliminate them completely.

I use the miter slot all the time for attaching featherboards. I also use a miter gauge to support short pieces but could get by using a push sled instead.

Norm made the router bit drawers deeper on his second version for taller bits and I like the way they work.

I routed a t-slot into the upper stationary fence and use it to attach featherboards. Clamps would work equally well.

I went with Norm's positioning for the router near the center of the table so I could rout from both directions and have a larger work surface when I don't use the fence for irregular shapes. For example, today I needed to run a piece against the fence but behind the bit. This required a left to right feed as opposed to the normal right to left and I needed to move the fence to the back of the table.

As for the top material, I went with doubled particleboard faced with formica and edged with oak for my top. Menard's sell's 1 1/8" particleboard that would probably work equally well. A fellow member at the OWWM site suggests that layered 1/2" MDF using wood glue would also work because the glue layer also adds strength. Melamine is another possibility.

[Gregory King]

Todd, I built the 2nd version as well. Followed it to a tee. I trusted that Norm had worked out the bugs from the first. I would not change a thing. Side dust collection would sacrifice much of the storage drawers. They would tip easy when extended out. I used 3/4" birch for the carcass and MDO ply for the drawers and dust box. I was skeptical about the dust pick-up until we ran a ton of 5 and 8 inch wide pine base [12-16 feet long] for my daughter's new home. Using PC bit #43544, we attached a sears shop vac to both ports. It did not take long to fill the cannister, but it cleaned the box and anything up top near the bit. There is no way to do this without dust collection. Mounting the dust collection on the back is not a problem since I have plenty of shop room to leave it out slightly. I like the table size because I use adjustable roller stands for long material. The weight of this unit using the materials outlined make it very stable when pushing items thru it. Greg

[Stan Mitchell]

I built #2 as well.

Things I would change or improve:

1)

Lift Cavity: In my opinion, the cavity for the lift/router is a grossly oversized space-waster

Totally agree - I would add another storage area in the bottom 6" in this section.

2) I would also eliminate the toe kick - the bottom 4 inches of the cabinet could be left off completely allowing for a better way to attach wheels if needed.

The rest of it is personal choice. I did expand the table dimensions a bit to allow for an Incra LS fence system.

[Roy Turbett]

I would also eliminate the toe kick - the bottom 4 inches of the cabinet could be left off completely allowing for a better way to attach wheels if needed.

I kept the toe kick. It keeps the frame for my mobile base out of the way.

[Frederick Skelly]

Todd,
You might take a look at the Veritas Router Table Top. Its a piece of machined plate steel. I keep eyeballin' that thing, butI just dont use my router enough to spend the $. But it sure looks like a great system.

Remember to post pics when you finish the new router table,
Fred

[Don Huffer]

I found this router table pretty much makes a hanging router table obsolete.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/...uter-lift.aspx

Easy to build.
Table stays flat without the weight of the router hanging on it.
Best of all bit changes are made real easy.
Loosen one bolt and drop the router out for other uses.
Bit adjustments are made from the top even while running if needed.
Raises or lowers the bit 1/16" per turn. Quarter turn is a 64th. Eighth turn is 1/128th.
Can be built in a weekend for less than $30.
Fits our beloved PC 690.

Don

[Pat Houle]

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/shop/archive/2012/08/01/shop-made-router-lift.aspx[/URL]

This one should...

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/...uter-lift.aspx

[Todd Willhoit]

Which table is version 2? I bought the plans and built it about three years ago. My plans have "0301P" in the lower right corner of the front page.

[Ole Anderson]

You say "rebuild the beast". Are you really reusing the case or willing to start from scratch? Many on your list of questions lead me to believe you may be starting from scratch. I made mine from plans in the November 1998 Wood magazine. It doesn't have all the cubbies that Norm has in his, but it was a fairly quick build and has a big slide out bit holder near the bottom with storage beneath. Great dust collection and a top as big as you want to make. I made my top from a double layer of what was at the time (2005) HD's $26 Chinese 13 ply birch, fully covered with high pressure laminate. I seldom use the table tip-up feature. Fitted with the Hitachi M12V and the Woodpecker's plunge router lift and the Freud router fence. The table is 24" x 40" with the router centered 11" back from the front edge. 2.5" rear fence dust collection hose is routed back into the under-table cavity which is fitted with a 4" flex hose to my DC. A slot at the bottom of the opposite end of the dust cavity allows a nice sweep of air (right to left) to keep the dust cavity clean. I elected to paint the box with Behr satin pure white. The fence is held with a couple of aluminum tee slots and I have a standard 3/4" aluminum miter bar slot parallel to the front table edge. A Rockler push button switch is on the right, just under the table. I tried an external speed control, but it couldn't handle the router's 15 amps. I have a couple of fences that attach to the Freud split fence mounts, made from 1-1/8" particle board. It moves nicely on my Pergo floor on felt pads.

[Gregory King]

Todd, if your plan is only three years old, it is version two. I doubt that you can buy the first version anymore. I failed to mention that the drawer storage is a nice spot to store saw blades. For me anyway. I keep 7 1/4" and all of the 10" ones there. Full extension drawer guides to compliment. Greg