Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 41

Thread: TS Blade guard- What don't I get?

  1. TS Blade guard- What don't I get?

    I finally upgraded my 70's vintage Delta TS to a new SawStop PCS with the fancy dust collection blade guard. In part what motivated the upgrade was a desire for modern safety equipment. The safety equipment on my old saw consisted of an on/off switch. Period. No riving knife, no blade guard, nuthin'. So, I really want to use the new stuff, but I just don't get the blade guard. In particular, I find the lack of visibility really disconcerting. It's hard-to-impossible to watch the wood as it passes by the blade, even with dust control running. There's just too much distortion and parallax from all the bits of plastic. Not being able to see what I'm doing doesn't feel very safe. Also, I can't use my Grripper push blocks because the guard is in the way, which results in having to use a less stable, basic push stick that doesn't control the stock as well (e.g., it's harder to push against the fence). Less control and less visibility do not seem like benefits.

    Other people seem capable of using a TS with a blade guard installed. What am I doing wrong? Do I just need to spend more time getting used to the new way? I'd love to hear from others who have transitioned from old gear to new.

  2. #2
    Do you need to see your tires while driving? Jigsaw, bandsaw, scrollsaw, circular saw, these are used to make free hand cuts and require the user to see the actual cut. Your tablesaw is not one of these. In fact, I would argue that, if you are watching the blade while cutting, your eyes are on the wrong place.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
    Posts
    296
    I have made similar comments on another thread -- as I have had my SS PCS for 4 years -- its great for some cuts and not for other (IMHO).

    I most often use the blade guard when ripping plywood and mdf…where I really hate the dust. I do use sometimes use it ripping solid wood too. Mostly when the rip is wide enough (4" or more?) where I can keeping my eyes squarely fixed on making sure the stock stays right up against the fence. At that width I can still easily use a big, flat bottomed push stick (I never use the long poker-types) between the fence and the guard. Of course it is of no use when cross-cutting, narrow rips, with a tenoning jig, auxiliary fences, etc.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Mt Jackson, VA
    Posts
    309
    I grew up using table saws without any type of safety devices and like you I prefer to see my work clearly and be able to use push sticks or blocks that I am used to. I gave a blade guard a fair chance but I just couldn't get used to or comfortable with it. One thing I do use is the little mj splitters to help prevent kickback. I did have a nasty kickback once that broke a couple ribs. That was on an old Powermatic with no splitter or anything. I think your saw has a riving knife so you should be set there. You should try it for a while and see if you can get used to it. I just can't.
    Last edited by Andrew Fleck; 01-22-2014 at 7:14 PM.

  5. #5
    I'll be honest I'm not watching the blade cut the wood but where the wood contacts the fence to make sure it stays in contact with it. I only see the where the blade is with my peripheral vision.

    And yes I know where my hands are at in relation to the blade even before I begin the cut.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,092
    I agree with Fred....the blade guard on the SS is not good and you can not see your mark. This makes it a real pain to use.

    SawStop could have done a much better job in designing the blade guard so you can see your mark and where you are cutting.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Eau claire, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,084
    Johnny, To me watching the blade, hand and material at the same time is the best way to get a good cut and do it safely. I have not ever used the gaurds on a table saw for the same reasons Fred states. Just like anything that has a potential to be dangerous, it is the operator that creates the safety of the machine. The only thing that newer saws have that I think are important are the riving knife and with the SawStop saws is the blade brake. So if we allow more and more potential regulations on us we will eventually have to wear kevlar suits and chain mail gloves to do anything. So it boils down to is that people do stupid things, then sue the manufacturer and make it tough on the rest of the folks doing things correctly.

    Jeff
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    Do you need to see your tires while driving? Jigsaw, bandsaw, scrollsaw, circular saw, these are used to make free hand cuts and require the user to see the actual cut. Your tablesaw is not one of these. In fact, I would argue that, if you are watching the blade while cutting, your eyes are on the wrong place.
    To turn or not to turn that is the question: ........Of course the answer is...........TURN ,TURN,TURN!!!!
    Anyone "Fool" can know, The important thing is to Understand................Albert Einstein
    To follow blindly, is to never become a leader............................................ .....Unknown

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,514
    Blog Entries
    1
    As stated, there is no need to watch the blade; the blade is right where it always was. Your fence, miter gauge, sled, whatever control your stock and set its position relative to the blade. Watch someone work a slider and you'll see what I mean. Trying to watch the blade cut the wood takes your eyes off the feed path and as far as I'm concerned, that is a safety issue. Trying to "correct" the feed once a cut is in progress on a tablesaw is an invitation to kick back.

    The SawStop guard is in line with many modern guards; thinner, split articulating sides, etc. I think it is the years working without one that is catching you off guard (no pun intended). I don't think you will find any reputable instructor demonstrating a technique that allows you to "adjust" the materials position once you have begun the feed path. If you don't know where your material is going to contact the blade way before you get there, guard or not, for safety's sake consider revising your technique. JMHO ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    262
    Man, I haven't used a TS with a guard since high school

  10. To be clear, I'm not watching the blade the whole time I make, say, a long rip. Mostly I'm looking at the fence and material to make sure it's staying tight to the fence while I feed. I would never try "adjust" material once I've started a cut. I just find it disconcerting not to be able to see the cut, know exactly when it's starting, see where it's cutting relative to my mark, etc.

    It's good to know others have had similar misgivings. I'm going to give it some time, try to get used to it and if I can't I'll feel okay about not using it all the time knowing that others have come to the same conclusion. FWIW, I do agree with Larry that SS could have designed the guard better such that you're not looking through 3 layers of plastic to see the material entering the blade.

  11. #11
    Exactly what is one watching the cutting blade for? When you see this what is the course of action one takes? Once my fence is set and I begin a cut, I am essentially an organically grown stock feeder. Nothing happening at the blade is going to change my course of action.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Marquette MI
    Posts
    524
    The third finger on my right hand is about a quarter inch shorter than it originally was because I used to find blade guards annoying.

  13. bad habits are hard to break unless there repercussions , losing a finger will make/force you change habits pronto .

    guards are there for the unexpected actions .

    Fred you have trained your mind one way long ago & now it's a irritation that the non-sight of the blade bothers you .
    Mike >............................................/ Maybe I'm doing this Babysitting Gig to throw off the Authorities \................................................<

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Saint Helens, OR
    Posts
    2,463
    I have a Shark Guard on my TS. It is an important component in my DC and presents a barrier for my fingers. I do not occupy a vehicle without wearing a seat belt, and I avoid removing blade guard.

    I am very careful with the TS. Making a cut on the TS is not random, casual, "just have one quick cut to make..." act. It always receives my full attention, regardless how mundane or trivial the cutting task may be.

    I, like most, have no intention of injuring myself on the TS. I'm sure those that have experienced kick back or worse did not expect they would be injured.
    Last edited by Greg Peterson; 01-23-2014 at 9:50 AM.
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Kapolei Hawaii
    Posts
    3,236
    While the SS guard does have some problems, I think it's much better than guards of old. It actually works, rides up on the wood -fairly- easily. It acts just like a riving knife. I don't look at the blade anymore. Like most, I grew up with no safety gear on my saw(s) until the SS.
    If you must, take off the guard and use the riving knife. Since you have Grippers, you should be pretty safe. I use the riving knife and Grippers when making those cuts that cannot be done with the guard. You'll get used to it. Enjoy your saw, it's a great saw.
    I used to never ever wear seat belts. Now I don't drive with them off. Just takes time to get used to them.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •