Operator Position Relative To The TS Fence

[Jeff Duncan]

Where the kickback might go doesn't factor into where I stand.

No offense meant, but it should be. Knowing what will happen if/when something goes wrong is something anyone who ever uses a piece of machinery should be taught before they're allowed to use it I've seen many accidents, (or after affects of), caused by guys who never stop to think about what's going to happen to them if something goes wrong. Not just for table saws, but for jointers, planers, shapers, you name it. If a machine has cutter that rotates at a high rate of speed, then kickback can occur. And for any person who stops, looks at the situation , and thinks about it for a minute or two, it's really just basic common sense. Don't stand in the direct path of the work piece. Is it 100% guaranteed to keep you safe? No, but it's the best and smartest way to improve your odds

As fas as terminology goes you can call it ejection if you like, but the rest of the industry calls it kickback, just something to keep in mind if your talking with others about it That's not to say Mr Mehler is wrong, I'm not familiar with him but I'm sure he is knowledgable. Just that there is certain terminology that's the accepted norm and in 20 years using machinery, working with other woodworkers and in other shops, I've never heard the term ejection used in that way

OK I'll get off my soap box for now I really don't want to sound so preachy, but when there is an actual debate over something that in the industry is considered proper technique 101…...

JeffD

[Kelby Van Patten]

Nearly all posts in this thread address the threat of a projectile hitting your body. That is not the biggest danger of kickback (although it does suck). The biggest danger of kickback is that, when the rear of the blade grabs the material and starts yanking on it, it will also yank anything that is touching it, including your hand or the pushblock that is in your hand. There is a very real risk that your hand will get pulled into the blade. While it sucks to get hit with a projectile, it sucks more to have your hand/fingers cut off. No "stance" will significantly reduce the risk of getting your hand sucked into the blade during kickback.

So, the only correct answer is:

1) Take all steps you can to avoid kickback. If your saw doesn't have a riving knife, then go buy a saw with a riving knife. It costs a lot less than a new finger.

2) Blade guards are your friend. I know, they are a hassle. But in the event of kickback, the guard is the one thing that is likely to keep your fingers connected to your hand. Once you get used to working with a guard, it really isn't that much of a hassle.

Projectiles hurt, but bruises heal. Severed fingers, not so much.

[Justin Ludwig]

Doesn't it all boil down to: look, listen, and feel? For me, it's an equal amount of all three. Of course you need experience and sometimes that experiences comes hard and fast. There's a whole slew of variables that could dictate body position.

If I'm teaching someone to operate MY table saw, it may vary slightly from you teaching someone about your saw. With that said, I stand to the left of the blade when fence is to the right when ripping hardwood, sheet material dictates where I stand based upon its size. I've never been hit with hardwood kickback.

I've been hit twice in my life and both times it was 1/4" plywood (once 5 years ago and last month with my wife watching ). I keep the blade low so the ply could only jump above the blade and spin (they were both large pieces). Both pieces hit my derriere because I "heard and felt" it happening, let go and turn away.

I can't count how many times I've lifted a piece out of the blade (something you can't do with a blade guard) because it was cupping or binding.

[Phil Thien]

Although a little dated, this Kelly Mehler video pertains to most of the topics on this thread: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7d...-saw_lifestyle
For those that might not know, Kelly Mehler is considered one of the experts on the table saw. He has written several books (The Table Saw Book and Mastering Your Table Saw), was an editor of Fine Woodworking for years, runs a woodworking school, and continues to write articles for magazines.

In that video, Mr. Mehler mentions the injuries to the left hand from standing to the left of the stock you're feeding. His point is, if you're using your left hand, keep it safely planted on the table, do not push with it.

What I've often see is people not only guiding with their left hand, but pushing as well. If you stumble or get distracted, you could feed your hand right into the blade.

[Chris Fournier]

Fence right hand side of blade, I'm right handed.

Ejection/kickback, no need to dissect. Wood being propelled back at the operator - simple as that. Most likely to happen when the wood is trapped and held to the blade, likely by the fence. Offcuts are usually inert once severed. Not always I know but usually. I use a suction force to pull offcuts from the left of the blade if I am worried about them, take no chances.

I have ripped miles of wood on a table saw, no exaggeration. I had one kick back within the first week of owning my tablesaw, that's it. I had read about saw use and ripping but I guess that I had to learn the hard way. It was violent and impressive. I analysed what happened and adjusted my technique and my saw. I rip heavy cuts on my TS, up to 4" plus on my current machine.

Where to stand? Well for one I would never look down the barrel of a loaded gun because that is where the hurt comes from. I would not stand behind the wood being cut on my saw for the same reason. So now I must choose right of the fence or left of the blade. How to choose? Well I know that wood coming back at me is likely if it is pushed by the blade so I know that I have to keep my wood against the fence. I can't do this from the right of the fence. I set myself up as far left as I can comfortably be and effectively push that wood against the table and the fence, I NEVER place my hands in the path of the blade no matter how far away from it I am.

I have been kickback free for over 20 years and I wear all of my fingers.

If you are obsessed with kickbacks on your TS I think that you are quite possibly in danger.

[Roy Turbett]

I have a Unisaw with a 52" fence, 4 x 8 outfeed table, and 2 x 3 infeed table. I always stand to the left of the piece and out of the line of fire. I generally anchor my left hand in front of the throat plate and focus on keeping the workpiece against the fence. I generally push with my right hand. An exception is when I'm breaking down full sheets of plywood. In that case, I stand on the left side of the plywood and feed the fully supported sheet with both hands from the side.

I also use a splitter with anti kickback pawls whenever possible but don't use the guard. I have several smaller saws I use on jobsites and break larger pieces down before I run them on the tablesaw. Several of these have cheap fences and I always set the fence by moving it from right to left. This reduces the chance of kickback by making it more likely the opening in front of the blade will be narrower than the opening at the back of the blade if the fence doesn't automatically lock parallel to the blade.