A method for making Moxon handwheels

[ryan carlino]

I think with decent bits, a good clamp/vise, and a lot of sizes from small to large, the cast iron can be drilled on a drill press. Compared to steel it is soft. I drilled the set screws on my drill press and it was easy. I could see slowly stepping up in sizes until you have a good size through-hole. The threaded acme rod seemed a little harder (or my hacksaw was dull), but it wasn't too bad to file the threads after I cut it.

[Isaac Smith]

Here is an option that requires no metalworking machines. I did use a drill press to drill the handles, but it could be done without one. You don't get the nice cast iron handwheel, but I haven't yet wished for them on this one.

I did splurge and used the precision Acme threaded rod. I don't have any of the regular thread to compare it to, but the handles do run very smoothly on this one.

The handles started out as 2 3/8" squares, and are about 4" long. I had some fears that it would be difficult to tighten them tightly enough, but that turned out to be a total non-issue. I can generate more than enough force to bow the front jaw (1 1/4" x 4 1/2" sycamore, but only 11" between centers).

moxon-vise-12.jpg moxon-vise-09.jpg moxon-vise-08.jpg moxon-vise-07.jpg moxon-vise-06.jpg moxon-vise-05.jpg

[Maurice Ungaro]

Nicely done, Isaac!

Here is an option that requires no metalworking machines. I did use a drill press to drill the handles, but it could be done without one. You don't get the nice cast iron handwheel, but I haven't yet wished for them on this one.

I did splurge and used the precision Acme threaded rod. I don't have any of the regular thread to compare it to, but the handles do run very smoothly on this one.

The handles started out as 2 3/8" squares, and are about 4" long. I had some fears that it would be difficult to tighten them tightly enough, but that turned out to be a total non-issue. I can generate more than enough force to bow the front jaw (1 1/4" x 4 1/2" sycamore, but only 11" between centers).

moxon-vise-12.jpg moxon-vise-09.jpg moxon-vise-08.jpg moxon-vise-07.jpg moxon-vise-06.jpg moxon-vise-05.jpg

[Steve Voigt]

Here is an option that requires no metalworking machines. I did use a drill press to drill the handles, but it could be done without one. You don't get the nice cast iron handwheel, but I haven't yet wished for them on this one.

I did splurge and used the precision Acme threaded rod. I don't have any of the regular thread to compare it to, but the handles do run very smoothly on this one.

The handles started out as 2 3/8" squares, and are about 4" long. I had some fears that it would be difficult to tighten them tightly enough, but that turned out to be a total non-issue. I can generate more than enough force to bow the front jaw (1 1/4" x 4 1/2" sycamore, but only 11" between centers).

A very nice and economical solution, especially for those who don't have the ability to drill and tap a hand wheel. Beautiful saw in the first pic, btw.

Another option is just to make wooden handwheels. This thread is inspiring me to consider that when I eventually make a moxon…about 12 years ago, I needed a hand wheel for my Rockwell TS. After finding out that a factory replacement would cost more than $50 (which is almost what I paid for the saw!), I made a wheel out of hard maple. 'm still using that handwheel, almost daily, 12 years later.

[Tom Blank]

Isaac,

Thank you for posting, I've been thinking my way through a similar project. A couple of questions please:

Is that a sleeve you put in the front chop, simply to keep the threads from chewing on the chop?

Did you use two nuts on each rod on the rear chop, or is that longer threaded coupling nut? If two nuts, how did you get the threads timed and tight at the same time?

Thanks,

Tom

[Isaac Smith]

Tom, there are two nuts on the rod at the rear chop. The one in the front is recessed into the wood so that the jaws can close all the way. The second nut is just tightened onto the rod from the rear. No need to time them. The nut in the handle is fixed to the wood, but is free to rotate on the rod. The wood handle is hollowed out so that it covers the rod that projects from the front.

That is indeed a bronze sleeve bearing, and as you guessed, is simply to keep the wood off of the threads.

Since that explanation may not be as clear as it could be, there are more pictures of it here.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Thanks for this post. I am going to order the parts.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

UGH!!! The hand wheels are a non-NAFTA item so they cannot ship outside the US/PR. I guess I will have to ship it to mom and dad in the states. I hate rules.

[Paul Saffold]

If you aren't adamant about having a hand wheel there are other relatively inexpensive options out there such as a veneer press screw. Lee Valley and Rockler and others carry them. Nothing to machine.


http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=31138
http://www.rockler.com/woodworking/Veneer-Press-Screw

[Maurice Ungaro]

Paul, this is an option that I had thought about, but quite frankly, forgotten. Do you think the handle could get in the way of sawing?

[Tom Blank]

Isaac,

Ah, I thought the wooden handles were tight on the threads and drove the acme screw back and forth through the nuts on the rear chop.

Thanks,

Tom

[Todd Hyman]

Ryan could you buy the roton round steel nut that is located at the bottom of the weblink (part 89519 two items above the wing nut for $5.52ea) and just drill a 1.25in hole in the handwheel and add the set screw.

[ryan carlino]

Totally true. One consideration, though, is that the handwheel hub is 1.4" in diameter (IIRC). That doesn't leave a ton of wall thickness (1.4-1.25)/2 = 0.075" for the set screw, assuming it was a circle to begin with. Loctite would work, too. This is definitely a simple enough vise that all of these sound like good options.

[jason thigpen]

I went the same cheap Enco route as well. I just bought a 3' length of 1/2" rod and cut 2" handles from it instead of sourcing hand wheels. Tig welded those to the nuts for a wing nut style handle. Not as fancy as the hand wheels, but still hefty enough to spin quickly.

[Maurice Ungaro]

VERY cool wing nuts, Jason! I'll bet they do have some heft to 'em!
Some very interesting takes on Moxon hardware out there. This thread has shown some real talent in the Creek.

I went the same cheap Enco route as well. I just bought a 3' length of 1/2" rod and cut 2" handles from it instead of sourcing hand wheels. Tig welded those to the nuts for a wing nut style handle. Not as fancy as the hand wheels, but still hefty enough to spin quickly.