Removing Motor Pulley on TS

[Jon Wilson]

I am replacing a bent motor pulley on my Craftsman 113 TS.

I completely removed the set screw and have pulled the metal "pin", the pulley will not budge.

Is there something I'm missing? A magic word? A dance? HELP!

[glenn bradley]

If the key is out the only thing holding it is age ;-) The upside is that you are going to toss the pulley so, you could cut it off. I would resist applying too much brute force as you don't want to damage the shaft. A wheel puller would be best.

[Joe Scharle]

May have annealed by now. I'd try heating the pulley; squirt some Liquid Wrench on the shaft; tap the pulley gently, and see if any of that works. Otherwise, it's time for a pulley puller.

BTW, there may be 2 set screws in there and the key may also be in 2 pieces.

[Erik Loza]

Agreed with everyone, above.

I'd just get out the three-jaw puller and go to it.

Best,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[johnny means]

Sounds to me like an excuse to buy some new tool. I just don't know which one

[Doug Herzberg]

When you get it off, I'd suggest spending the $ for quality machined pulleys at a bearing shop. Mine cost over $20 each 20 years ago, but they vastly improved the performance of the Craftsman TS. Just take the old ones in for size comparison. You can probably get by with a cheap wheel puller from an automotive parts store. I've had luck lately with PB Blaster penetrating oil. Stinks, but it works. Also at auto parts stores.

[Troy Turner]

You can get a pulley puller from the auto parts store on their loan a tool program. Couple dollar down payment, return same day, and you're in business with your $$ in tact

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Time for a 3 legged puller!

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

A 3 arm wheel puller or a hack saw.

[Ronald Blue]

Depending on how much room is between the pulley and the trunnion you might need what the call a "bearing separator". This is a 2 piece split puller that slides together behind the bearing. and then the rods connect to it and it then works in conventional puller fashion after that. Since the pulley isn't something you care about you might be able to get it to move using a cold chisel in a wedge fashion.

[Dok Yager]

John I agree with all the guy`s saying use a three legged puller. This is the best method for getting it off. Put some kind of penetrating oil on it and allow it to sit overnight. As said you can rent one from a parts store and if you return it you get all your money back. if it is extremely stubborn you can try heat just remember the penetrating oil Will catch fire! So you might want to wipe it off first.

[Anthony Diodati]

is this the motor or the saw arbor?
Is there room to get a puller in there?
I like the Idea of making sure the key is out and no 2nd set screw, and using some heat on the pulley.
Mapp gas, or even propane torch should be enough, heat it even, and keep turning the pulley as you are heating.
a little oil or PB blaster be fore hearing my help, get everything (The Oil) smoking pretty good, and give e'r a light tap or 2 with a small hammer.

[Brian W Smith]

All normal safety efforts should be followed.Not being the least,eye protection.


A 3 jaw puller,propane torch,penetrant gets used here at our shop on a regular basis.These are all the basic machine "fixing" tools.You can do the "tappy-tap" on the PB Blaster(or whatever brand).....squirt some at/in the problem,tap on it with a plastic screwdriver....squirt some more.Then,go find something else to do for awhile,chill.Now,do it again......you're letting the chemical,do it's thing.Patience goes a long way.Arming yourself with the proper tooling goes a long way.Good luck,am sure you'll pop it right off.