Router and Table and possibly a router lift

[Drew Pavlak]

Hello all,

I haven't posted in a while, been too busy with daughters softball and building a new shop. Shop is coming along and my mind is starting to look into the setup of said shop and specifically a Router Table. I purchased a table and plate from Rockler a while back for a Dewalt 618 (Rockler Class A plate) and now I am wondering if that was the right choice. Let me start off by saying that I am a hobbyist, I am not going to be cranking out a ton of cabinets or anything. Reading around the forum a lot of people prefer a 3-1/4 HP router for their table. From what I can tell it has to do with running larger panel bit in the router itself.

I guess the questions I have are mainly this,

1. Not having a router table currently, is a dedicated router worth the extra cash? Anyone out there only have 1 router and swap it out, or once it is in does it stay in?

2. Is 3-1/4 HP really needed? would a 2-1/4 hp work for a hobbyist?

3. Any one modified a Rockler base plate to fit a router it wasn't meant for? I believe the plate I have is a Class A plate and will work for the following routers - Makita 1100; Milwaukee 5615-5624; DeWalt 616-618; Bosch 1617-1618; Ridgid 2930 Combo Kit; Hitachi M12VC (fixed and kit); Porter-Cable 690, 890, 7529, 97529 and 8529. Note: Current models of the Porter-Cable 892 require at least two screws to be 1/2" long versus 5/8". Could this be modified for a Milwaukee 5625?

4. Lastly I am looking at the Milwaukee 5625 or the 5616 router. is the function where you can adjust the height with a wrench from the table top really going to work well? or is this not really all that practical. In other words buy a router lift as well.

My concerns are setup time and accuracy. I don't want to have to spend hours (maybe an exaggeration) setting up a cut on the router. or have it be such a pain that I never want to use it. Also trying to see if I can still use what I had originally purchased.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Drew

[Prashun Patel]

"I don't want to have to spend hours (maybe an exaggeration) setting up a cut on the router."

A dedicated router is IMHO a must if you want convenience. You can get a dedicated router motor body only for cheaper than one with a base.

I'm using a 1.75 hp router in my table, but I would prefer a heavier one for cutting sliding dovetails or frame/panel profiles. You can get by with a lighter router but it will mean more passes and possibly bit changes.

A dedicated lift has the benefit of allowing above-table bit changes. That's a huge convenience for me.

Last, consider a fence with microadjustability.

[Earl Rumans]

I tried the table mounted router without getting a lift and it was just too much inconvenience for me. I have a Triton MOF-001 router which has a procedure for above table adjustments when mounted in a table. By the time you make the adjustment then go under the table to lock it in and then go under the table to turn it on, it's just way to involved. I now use my Triton, great router by the way, for hand work and I got an Incra Mast-R-Lift II with a Porter Cable 7518 router motor mounted it it and it's a dream combination for me. I have the PC plugged into a table mounted power switch, so I don't need to go under the table for anything now.

If you can swing the cost of a lift, I highly recommend one when using a router table. If you can't afford a lift I wouldn't worry too much about getting a router with above table adjustment, as it's not that much of an improvement.