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Thread: Large Dado Stack Recommedations

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
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    900
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael W. Clark View Post
    George, what is the rip capacity between the blade and fence? Maybe its not important with the sliding table as you could use stops and put the keeper on the left side of the blade?

    Cool looking saw! You could probably put my G1023 on it and saw it in half!
    50" rip. and yeah, I used to have a 50" LT Unisaw. This thing Dwarfs it.

  2. #32
    ya that's true of the saws with rise and fall but many of the rip saws with very large blade did not have this feature. Having the blade high held the wood to the table so it did no slap and kick back. large crown guards with adjustable nose piece is what keep you hands away from the blades.

    these are still in use in the UK and most colleges still train on theses saws.

    rip saw.jpg
    the Wadkin 30" does look scary but the 36" power feed saw is just way to cool for lovers of large blade saws. no rise or fall on these saws with fixed arbors.


    now if you don't think that has the DOC for ya how about the sagar rope feed saw with a 48" blade.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9HMLx6Iiv8






    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    My understanding was always another major advantage of the larger blades is reduced/eliminating tearout due to the much shallower exit angle as the tooth leaves the work?

    This had always been my understanding when looking at large euro saws which run 14"-16" blades, and larger, yet are still belt driven arbors. I know there are cases where depth of cut is an issue especially in shops which use saws, as George mentioned, stacking multiple sheets and gang cutting. But where that blade would shine to me is cutting at normal depths or in sheet goods and having little to no tearout.

    I had looked at some big older Martin's at one point and several shop owners told me with large blades, and of course sharp, they never had a need for scoring.
    jack
    English machines

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Broomfield, CO
    Posts
    91
    If you for the Amana set, Tools Today has worked well for me. Looks like the 12" st is $306 with free shipping. You can also buy individual chippers for this set.

    http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5257-com...mana-tool.aspx

    You can also buy individual chippers for this set.

    http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5263-dad...mana-tool.aspx

    But, of course, the astute shopper gets another 10% off:

    http://www.retailmenot.com/view/toolstoday.com


    Last edited by Jery Madigan; 02-04-2014 at 1:28 PM.

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by jack forsberg View Post
    now if you don't think that has the DOC for ya how about the sagar rope feed saw with a 48" blade.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9HMLx6Iiv8
    You'll get some puckers out of the safety wonks with that one..

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    1,544
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    You'll get some puckers out of the safety wonks with that one..
    I thought Curly might go for a ride at any minute!

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Rutherford Co., NC
    Posts
    1,126
    Quote Originally Posted by George Bregar View Post
    Charles, you couldn't be more wrong. Your Jet has a belted arbor (Red), the Oliver has a direct drive motor (Blue). See how that limits depth of cut below?

    Attachment 281622

    It's neither stupid nor a bad design because maximum depth of cut with the smallest blade is not the target. Capacities are however, and the Oliver exceeds your Jet in depth of cut, 4-3/4" with an 18" blade, 3-1/2" with a 16" blade. The direct drive design provides a higher quality of cut because of reduced vibration, much better than your Jet, or any saw with an arbor driven with a belt. It also provides much faster feed rate because those teeth on a 16" are coming faster. The Oliver is designed for high quality, and high production. A comparable saw today costs around $40,000.
    Thanks for the education! I should have known that there was a reason behind all that, but having never been around large machines I just didn't see the sense in it.
    "Live like no one else, so later, you can LIVE LIKE NO ONE ELSE!"
    - Dave Ramsey

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    2,287
    Forrest can probably make you a custom one.

    Quote Originally Posted by George Bregar View Post
    Guys:

    I've traded out my Unisaw for an Qliver 88-DX. The Oliver came with enough 16" Woodworker II to justify my auction price, but I'm looking for a 12" stack dado set with 1" arbor. I know of Forrest but am having trouble finding anyone else that has a bigger set. Thanks for your time.

    George

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    New England, in a town on the way to nowhere
    Posts
    538
    +1 on Woodworkers Tool Works, call and ask to speak to Bobby. He's the owner and very knowledgable about industrial machinery like your Oliver. He can make an informed recommendation on your tooling needs, won't sell you what you don't need. FWIW, I recently bought a new stack set from him and I got more than I expected, definitely worth the money.

  9. I'm traumatized from watching that Sagar video. I may have nightmares. When he finished his first full cut I was squirming and I almost couldn't watch. Maybe it's just perspective, but his hand looked way to close to that obviously man-eating saw blade.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Outside of Toronto
    Posts
    3
    Ahhhh!!!!! So that’s how you get that type of finish on a cut! Cool.

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